High End Cashmere Brand: From Yarn To Clothing, You Don'T Know How Hard It Is.
Cashmere and
wool
The difference between one word and another is quite different in origin and manufacturing process.
In the factory of cashmere brand 1436 in Ordos, the headquarters of Italy brand Brunello Cucinelli and REDA textile mill, we saw the whole process from raw material to a garment.
Six goat's Velvet = a cashmere sweater
The Ordos prairie of the ETO banner in Inner Mongolia, with its unique geographical environment and climatic conditions, has bred the most suitable goat producing goat.
The cashmere that is combed from this goat can reach the highest standard in fineness and length.
This is the exclusive breeding protection area of 1436 of the high-end cashmere brand of Ordos group.
Erdos
There are two factories facing the gate.
The workshop in the East is responsible for accepting the original velvet just from the goat, cleaning up the dirt and wool and separating clean and pure cashmere.
The cleaned pile is chosen by the workers.
All workers have to undergo half a year's training before operation. After one day, 100 kilograms of raw wool can be selected.
Li manager, who is responsible for the sorting plant, told us: "the rate of cashmere screening through this step is about 90%."
The cashmere should be re placed into the comber to further remove impurities and blend fine wool.
"White as snow, light as clouds, soft as silk" of cashmere hair was born.
The cashmere is not the final product.
They also need to be sent to special quality inspection departments.
Song Chunfang, senior engineer of the national cashmere products engineering and technology research center of Ordos group, explained that the purpose of this process is: "check the length, fineness, short staple rate, variegated color and other indicators of wool, and disqualifying it should be re combed."
The next step is called "Mao Mao".
The safety no checked wool is treated by adding water and hair oil to disperse the fibers.
Eight hours later, the "full fat" Cashmere will be put into the carding machine and again combed.
The tops appear like white soft pancakes.
These tops will be sent to the spinning frame, drawn and twisted into thread, and then combed.
This procedure can make cashmere fibers parallel and straight, remove short fibers, improve cashmere pilling level, make it more smooth, smooth and bright.
After cashmere fibers are spun into yarn, the yarn can be made into qualified yarns by removing the spines, thick sections and details through winding.
White Cashmere sometimes needs dyeing. This step needs to be finished before the yarn becomes finished yarn.
So far, 1436 of them have developed 400 kinds of cashmere colors.
In order to get the best dyeing effect, not only dyes are very important, but water quality is also the key that can not be bypassed.
The quality of water in northern China is too hard, and the color of fabrics dyed with such water will be greatly reduced.
1436, we use special water treatment system to filter and soften the water to ensure saturation and luster.
The newly formed yarn is not strong, but it needs to be rolled again. It will turn the two strands into one strand, wound into a tube, double twisting, and finally make a beautiful tube of finished yarn -- cashmere sweater.
yarn
Woven.
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No Plush drafting, twisting and thread forming is an important step in making yarns.
The finished yarn is assigned to another factory in the West.
This is the knitting workshop.
A machine that numbered the program according to the technological requirements of the product has woven the yarn into a pile of flannel sheets.
They also care about weaving.
Weaving is made of warp and weft, knitted by a coil, and it has a certain degree of elasticity.
With the influence of yarn count, weaving and finishing, the feeling of knitted fabric is usually soft.
The single colored cashmere weave (front, back, sleeves, hem and neckline) of different parts were finished, and then knitted together by hand, then the cashmere knitted fabric was buckled and stitched and stitched and stitched, and finally a cashmere sweater was made.
A basic women's cashmere sweater usually needs 250 grams of yarn. A man's basic cashmere yarn usually needs 320 grams of yarn -- almost six goat's velvet can be made.
Preparation before weaving jacquard: warping
The origin of the unique flower shape on the cashmere sweater and cashmere sweater
The cashmere fabric is manually buckled. After this step, the clothes are basically shaped.
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