Why Can'T New York Produce Multi Brand Groups Like LVMH Or Kai Yun?

As mentioned in our earlier reports, because of the United States

Thom Browne in his hometown

The industry has not received enough attention. This year, he went to France to host his 2018 spring and summer.

Release conference.

In fact, Browne is not alone, and Proenza Schouler and Rodarte announced plans to join Paris fashion week in January this year.

In the fashion industry, it is an honor to stand on the show ground in Paris.

People once ranked the four largest fashion week in the world. Paris is the first place, while New York is the bottom. Milan and London are second and third respectively.

There are mainly two standards in the ranking, one is the weight of participating brands, the other is the size of the fashion week itself.

No doubt, with the participation of Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton and other luxury brands and new and old designer brands such as Dries Van Noten and Y/Project, and far larger than the scale of New York fashion week, Paris fashion week has been better than before.

With fashion website Fashionista saying, if the American fashion industry is broken, then France will thrive and thrive. For those fledgling new brands, France's high fashion week represents the peak of success and reputation. The root cause of all this is that the fashion industry in Paris has always been developing in an organized and leadership environment, but New York always lacks a fashion group that really has a voice.

In Paris, apart from Chanel and Hermes, LVMH and Kai Yun group control almost all the top brands such as Louis Vuitton, Dior, YSL, Gucci, Balenciaga, Givenchy and so on. The success of Paris fashion week is the result of the high level of organization and synergy of these two groups, making everything in an orderly way, and allowing the brand to overcome individual will, thus standing on the overall interests of Paris fashion industry.

However, the fashion industry in New York did not follow this logic. The brands in New York were their own battalions. They decided or partially arranged a press conference with the New York Fashion Association, and New York fashion week became a flexible and loose assembly.

In recent years, especially in recent years, the momentum of Losangeles, Miami and other places gradually spread, and also dispersed the resources and influence of New York, which further shook New York's position as the center of American fashion.

Then the question is, why can't New York produce a multi brand group like LVMH or Kai Yun?

Of course, there are historical reasons.

LVMH and Kai Yun grew up in the arms race between the two sides. LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault and President Francois-Henri Pinault of Kai Yun group all had strong intentions to do so. They constantly compete with their rivals by buying luxury brands and strengthening their own resource matrix.

LVMH and Kai Yun buy many brands that have a long history and are full of the spirit of the times. But in the United States, the luxury fashion industry is relatively new, which means that many brands do not have so many touching stories to tell.

According to the world clothing and shoe net, former fashion columnist Christina Binkley once said, "we tend to think that the concept of luxury brand is entirely European."

Or, this is a "winner take all" view.

Paris's support for the luxury goods industry has existed for a long time. It is said that from the beginning of Louis Xiv, a guild system existed to support the development of the luxury goods industry, which laid a good foundation for the modern high fashion.

More importantly, it strengthens the fashion French label.

Culture is lagging behind. Even though the United States has developed many brands that are positioned in line with luxury in recent decades, and is more daring in business operation, people tend to think that Europe is the real cradle of industry.

This evaluation is not undeserved. According to Fashionista, the United States has also lacked its traditional handicraft protection, and there is no incentive mechanism within the industry.

After the end of LVMH and Kai Yun's brand acquisition competition, the two groups turned to cultivate innovative talents, and set up LVMH Prize awards for new designers and brands.

With big brands as a cushion, young people can get practical support, not just from the incubator to get an office and some funds.

In addition, the outstanding fabric and technology in Europe determine that many brands will go to Milan or Paris. According to Binkley, many American designers have to travel to Europe to get a sample.

This situation not only consumes material manpower, but also delays the production time. This is also the reason why the United States wants to move the fashionable production back to the United States. However, the disadvantages of this move are obvious, implying that the cost of labor and material pportation will also increase.

Therefore, American designers can only move their studios to Europe to facilitate a balanced life and business.

However, the American fashion industry also has its own advantages and characteristics.

In the past few decades, the competitive advantage and ambitions of the United States have not been placed on the competition between Dior and Gucci. The investment portfolio of Americans is very different from that of Europe.

American brands are willing to create a cultural trend. From the early emphasis on the Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein of the US elements to today's Supreme and Patagonia, their focus is not on the pricing of customer groups.

This is a different practice from traditional luxury goods, and today's American brands also have several favorite publicity points: sustainability, adventure and humanistic value.

Therefore, the United States has produced many famous light luxury brands, including Coach, Kate Spade, Tory Burch and so on.

Among them, the recent acquisition of Kate Spade by Coach has made its vision of collectivist operation clear.

Prior to that, Coach also bought shoe brand Stuart Weitzman to integrate resources on shoes and lifestyle brands.

Mindy Meissen, managing director of fashion bulletin FashionREDEF, believes that Coach is trying to create a prototype of a fashion group. "This reflects the desire of the United States. Coach has been concerned about brand inheritance and technology for many years, and also has its own brand archives. It has clearly occupied a clear market segment."

But Coach wants to truly become a group that can compete with France, and also needs to work patiently, and the most urgent thing is to retain the talents who are migrated.

More interesting reports, please pay attention to the world clothing shoes and hats net.