2015 Men's Week In Autumn And Winter Is Over.

London to Milan, and then to Paris, the three week of the 2015 autumn winter men's week.

In the eyes of fashion critics, this men's dress week has quietly launched a revolution about male fashion in addition to showing a series of new trends of men's clothing in autumn and winter (or retro trend).

"During the fashion week, the European fashion world showed a way to melt the gender distinctions in fashion."

Eric Wilson, a senior fashion critic, said so.

In the impression of men, the men's wear show is full of exaggerated concepts, wild and weird expressions (you probably think of this year's Lego building makeup and Rick Owens show), deviating from the consideration of the actual dress, or carefully trying to renovate the classics, but the whole beauty is not good enough.

This is probably because, plain and prudent, it is classic elegance to be pleasant to hear. It is a fixed expectation of men's dressing style.

But this year, in addition to those mentioned above, men's clothing design has more details worth remembering.

For example, in the show of Dior Homme, the embossed button fastener is added to the tail of the formal suit, while the Berluti tailored jacket has bright colors and glass texture; Hermes uses the matching of cashmere cardigan, silk knitted sweater and calf trousers to liberate the category of men's modern wear; ribbon and stripes appear in the coat of Dries Van Noten, the front chest and arms of the jacket - "I just want to play a game with decorations."

The designer said at the back of the show.

These highlights and details make the men's clothing displayed in this season more interesting in details.

When it comes to design trends and what people expected before, the design style of this week's men's wear week is on the opposite road to Normcore.

As a fashionable new word "Normcore", which started in the fashion industry from last year, its intention is to refer to a collective soft, comfortable or even plain dress style.

Suzy Menkes, a fashion critic, thinks that men's clothing design in previous years has this meaning, but the trend of men's wear this season is anti Normcore.

Rick Owens's performance this year is a brilliant highlight of this road, and the excavation of the key parts of the garment in front of it has led to numerous debated discussions.

However, Eric Wilson, a senior fashion critic, praised the designer's action. "Owens is not just attracting attention.

As a brilliant designer, he conveys his unique taste in charming design. Men do not really wear the high necked sweater with a crotch under the hole, because they usually do not.

As the first choice for everyday wear.

Eric Wilson feels that the European design community has shown an attitude of "abating the distinction between sexes in fashion" during the fashion week. The discussion on the role shift of gender in contemporary society has been fully reflected in this fashion week.

Some experts believe that nudity is not the prerogative of women.

As Rick Owens has said for her own design, "since people can accept women's nudity in the show, what's so weird about male exposure?" this kind of "sexless" distinction has been recognized by many designers.

Fashion design has become more neutral, and the specificity of gender distinction in clothing design has become increasingly blurred.

Bibby Sowray, the commentator of the daily telegraph, also agreed with the designer's idea: "the moment that Owens designed challenges a fact: why do we not raise women's naked eyelids on the T stage, but when they turn to men, they are alarmed." Beebe.

except

There are still some.

It is also demonstrated in fashion show in its own way.

In this fashion week, many men's wear designs draw on the design elements of women's fashion.

Some designers simply wear women's fashion to men's models.

For example, those beautiful (especially women's perspective) hollowed out lace tops, silk necklaces with bow tie and Moschino flower brocade jackets and shirts on Gucci show.

In addition, similar examples can be found on the Prada, Giorgio Armani and Raf Simons show grounds.

In the past, in order to facilitate buyers, brand inventory management, terminal sales channels, and fashion editor, brand has always been very clear in the show, but now the times have changed.

"Gender roles change everywhere in the workplace, on the political stage, in the family and in the fashion industry."

Eric Wilson wrote this in his Instyle column.

The GQ editor sighs at Prada's show: everyone can see the significance behind these elements in the Prada men's show. "Designers show men and women's men's clothing on the platform of men's wear week. The purpose is to arouse people's discussion of gender issues (rather than the early autumn women's show)."

Miuccia Prada, known as "the most fashionable queen of fashion circles", has created a dual sex (applicable) series, but in the early autumn women's dress show, the model wore a skirt, while the model of men's wear in autumn and winter wore some double breasted suits.