APEC Leader Of The Conference Costume Designer: From Brewing To Ready-Made Clothes To More Than Ten Times

The picture shows Chu Yan being interviewed.

Duan Xiaomeng photo

On the evening of November 10th, leaders and spouses attending the APEC conference in Beijing were featured before the welcome dinner.

The group photo attracted the eyes of the world. It also pushed the top designer of the new Chinese costume, Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology associate professor, and China top ten fashion designer Chu Yan to the public.

What are the originality of the new Chinese style? Are there any new Chinese clothes suitable for everyday wear? 13 afternoon, our reporter approached Chu Yan and listened to her talk about the story behind the Chinese dress.

The design of the warm and elegant Chinese clothing has been revised more than ten times from brewing to ready-made garments.

In December of last year, Chu Yan was very excited but not surprised when he received an invitation to design a costume for the APEC conference in Beijing.

So "arrogant", at first listen, and her gentle, demure temperament is not very consistent.

She smiled and humbly, from more than 100 top designers in the world, not how strong she is, but she has always insisted on the new Chinese style charm.

"Every APEC conference, leaders of national costume group photo is a big point.

On this stage, it is time to show Chinese cultural confidence through new Chinese clothing.

Wearing a beige middle length gown, silk embroidered scarves embroidered with a few elegant plum blossoms and a long shawl, the 70 fashion designer talked about it.

"From brewing to ready-made clothes, the design scheme has been revised more than ten times."

When the first day of sitting hard all day, now I recall a lot of sweet harvest.

"Where is the starting point of the new Chinese style?" from the very beginning, Chu Yan made clear that he did not stick to the direction of a certain historical period and the dress of a certain nationality, but tried to do it for thousands of years.

The characteristics of the Chinese style clothing elements such as cardigan and so on are bold and comprehensive, which embodies the great and elegant style of being gentle, elegant and tolerant.

On the pattern, the design of "sea and river cliff" has given the meaning of 21 economic landscapes and dependencies.

"We are looking for the three most famous brocade in China.

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Set the song brocade in Suzhou, because it has the characteristics of matte light, but it is not flashy and expensive, but it is very consistent with the Chinese people's introverted spirit.

Chu Yan introduced, "generally, the fabric of song brocade is relatively light, considering that Beijing is already the early winter during the conference, so the material has been adjusted, adding wool yarns to the weft, which is both warm and crisp."

According to the introduction, the song brocade and Zhang satin, provided by Wujiang Dingsheng silk Co., are suitable for the simple and elegant style of Chinese clothing and the exquisite and exquisite traditional patterns.

Chu Yan believed in the idea of "hanging clothes and treating the whole world" by ancient people. In her view, clothing is an important part of etiquette. "China is known as the" dress kingdom "and" ceremonial state ". Therefore, today's Chinese fashion designers have a great sense of historical mission.

If this meeting can let people start to understand and like new Chinese clothing, that's my happiest thing. "

Chinese clothing should fit in with the present environment so as to integrate into people's daily life.

Chu Yan was born in the ancient city of Xi'an. She was very perplexed. She began to realize that this cultural ancient capital impregnated herself. From childhood, the forest of Steles and Qinglong temple was her amusement park. At the age of 12 and 3, she had nothing to do with her sketchpad. She depict the Tang Dynasty female figure and the pottery figurine of the Song Dynasty in the Shaanxi Museum of history.

Speaking of stealing the cloth that pressed grandma's bottom, she cut and sewed the seam. Grandma found it so painful that she wanted to hit someone. Chu Yan laughed brightly and seemed to return to her childhood.

When it comes to reading a dream of Red Mansions, most of those who like to study Lin's sister's robe and Bao's elder brother's coat, this fashionable person who doesn't like shopping and likes to eat books is lost in meditation. It seems to be looking for new design inspiration in a "Red Mansion" among people of different colors.

In 1993, Chu Yan was admitted to Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, which seemed to be "doomed" by the people around him.

"Before the middle of twentieth Century, Chinese clothing was inherited and orderly. In recent decades, Western clothing has covered almost all Chinese people, and our dress traditions have been interrupted."

Chu Yan introduced that even when she was at University, what she was talking about in the class were western dress design concepts.

When he was a graduate student, he followed the famous designer Li Keyu. The elements and ideas of Chinese clothing began to re enter Chu Yan's vision.

"Teacher Li Keyu often gives his ears to life. He must draw inspiration from traditional culture and innovate the design of Chinese clothing."

At the time of graduation, Chu Yan submitted his master's thesis on "Oriental style dress design and recreation", which has become the source of the new Chinese costume nowadays.

"In recent years, new Chinese clothing has become more and more popular."

Chu Yan felt that he had caught up with the good times. With the Chinese economy leading the world, Chinese culture has also been taken seriously all over the world.

"Before, most of the stars and artists wore Chinese clothes. In the past two years, more and more people are dressed up."

How to make Chinese clothing popular in daily life? In Chu Yan's view, this is a new place for new Chinese clothing.

For example, in the daily assembly design, we can retain the traditional design of the robe or the collar of the deep garment, but shorten the length of the floor, which is more convenient for the modern people to act.

The song brocade, originally woven by hand, now uses computer jacquard technology, which can reduce costs and meet more consumers.

In the view of Liu Yuanfeng, President of Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, "clothing is the expression of spirit, in ancient China.

All of them express the ancients' understanding of the universe, the world, the society and life.

Inheriting Chinese clothing is also drawing strength from traditional culture. "

Nowadays, Chu Yan is a doctoral student of Liu Yuanfeng, who mainly studies the inheritance, rescue and innovation of Chinese traditional dress. She hopes that one day people will be dressed in Chinese style clothes to go on the streets, and passers-by will no longer feel special and become a new normal.