Green Choice Forced Textile Brands To Attach Importance To Environmental Responsibility

"A large number of printing and dyeing enterprises exceed the standard discharge, while polluting the local environment, it also means" Spin The brand supply chain has significant environmental violation risks. In December 4th, Ma Jun, director of the public environment research center, told reporters.

On the same day, the public environmental research center, seven environmental organizations such as morning dew environmental protection and green Jiangnan released third research reports on green choice textile industry in Beijing, which fully described the pollution map of China's textile industry. The report pointed out that a large number of printing and dyeing enterprises violated the new wastewater discharge standards, requiring Polo, UNIQLO, YOUNGOR and other brands to face the serious water pollution problems caused by the supply chain.

　 Many areas have not yet been fully implemented. New standard

China is a large textile producing country. The output of printing and dyeing fabrics in five provinces of Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Guangdong, Fujian and Shandong exceeds 90%. of the whole country. The above report shows that in recent years, the water pollution situation is very severe in Hangzhou Bay area, Taihu basin and Pearl River Estuary and Pearl River Delta region, which are highly concentrated in the printing and dyeing industry.

"Productivity is highly concentrated, and pollutant emissions in some areas have far exceeded the environmental capacity." Ma Jun said.

In order to achieve pollutant emission reduction of printing and dyeing wastewater, China began to implement the discharge standard of pollutants for textile dyeing and finishing industry in January 1, 2013. The standard has tightened the emission limits of COD and aniline, and set up emission standards for AOX for the first time.

"For example, we are familiar with the COD index, which can be ranked 500mg/L, according to the new standard, can only be less than 100mg/L." Ma Jun said.

In fact, the control technology of water pollutants in textile dyeing and finishing industry is basically available. The responsible person of the Department of science and technology of the Ministry of environmental protection has said that every control limit set by the new standard corresponds to a mature and reliable control technology.

However, environmental protection organizations have found that new standards have not yet been fully implemented in many areas. Of the five provinces that are highly concentrated in the dyeing and finishing industry, only two provinces in Zhejiang and Fujian have strictly implemented the new standards, and only Zhejiang has more fully disclosed the data of enterprises violating the new standards.

"Zhejiang is the only one who has implemented the new standard and has made full disclosure. We appreciate Zhejiang's efforts in this respect, but such disclosure also makes us feel very heavy." Ma Jun revealed that Zhejiang Province, which occupies half of China's printing and dyeing industry, has exceeded 400 printing and dyeing enterprises in the first half of this year, accounting for more than 90% of the total number of enterprises in the province. "

In addition to the serious waste water standards in textile enterprises, the new standard has brought new challenges to the disposal of printing and dyeing sludge. Li Jie, the main contributor to the report, said: "before printing and dyeing enterprises in Shaoxing, the printing and dyeing sludge was about 1 tons a day. After the implementation of the new standard, it now reaches five or six tons per day. The total number of sludge produced by printing and dyeing enterprises in Shaoxing and Shaoxing is 2500 tons per day, and there is only one sludge disposal company with a daily capacity of 1000 tons.

Developing green supply chain is particularly important.

"Pollution of textile and dyeing industry has restricted the sustainable development of some developed coastal areas. It is particularly important to promote cleaner production of brand industrial chains and promote green selection in the concentrated areas of printing and dyeing industry." Fang Yingjun, director of green Jiangnan, said.

In March 2007, 21 environmental protection organizations launched a green consumption drive. Green production And purchasing green selection activities, encouraging consumers to use their right to purchase to influence the performance of enterprises, and calling on these manufacturers and retailers to strictly manage their supply chains and implement green procurement standards. The first industry chosen by the project was IT industry, and entered the second industry textile industry in March 2012.

According to Ma Jun, the first two phases of the textile industry mentioned that the amount of water pollutants discharged from the textile industry is very huge. In the whole industrial chain of spinning, producing fabrics, printing and dyeing, and making garments, the printing and dyeing link consumes 85% of the water, 80% of the energy and 65% of the chemicals. "In the current global division of labor, garment processing links are increasingly shifting to Southeast Asian countries, but printing and dyeing links are largely left behind in China."

"After the release of the previous report, some brands such as Martha's department store have undergone relatively large changes, and it has promoted some important printing and dyeing enterprises to improve." Ma Jun said, like Zhejiang Qing Mao textile printing and dyeing Co., Ltd., in the one or two quarter of this year, many pollutants discharged from wastewater outlets exceeded the standard. Later, the wastewater treatment facilities were upgraded and put into operation.

The third issue of the report pointed out that a group of brands such as Yida, Nike, WAL-MART and so on have begun to use public data to establish supplier search mechanism, so that it is possible to identify pollution problems in the supply chain actively, and accordingly push some suppliers to make rectification. Polo, UNIQLO, YOUNGOR and other brands are still facing negative feedback in the face of pollution from the supply chain.

Li Jie, senior project manager of the public environment research center, said that in the survey, suspected suppliers of some well-known brands were involved in violating the new emission standards. Its violation involves not only general indicators such as COD and chromaticity, but also the characteristic indicators such as aniline. It shows that the wastewater discharged from relevant enterprises contains toxic and harmful ingredients.

For brands that have launched daily searches, the report suggests that they should not stop at risk identification, but should effectively push suppliers who violate environmental regulations to make effective rectification and make disclosure to the public. At the same time, as the pollution of the textile industry is more upstream, we suggest that the brand extend environmental management to the supply chain.

"Many printing and dyeing enterprises are not first-class suppliers, but exist in the deep part of the supply chain, and the brand should extend to the deep part of the supply chain." Ma Jun believes that the first tier management level can be adopted, and the most polluted links in the entire supply chain can be identified and managed and intervened directly.

"The bigger the brand, the bigger the responsibility. This is the reason why we choose these famous brands as the object of investigation. Some enterprises may not respond to the challenge of environmental organizations, they can not hear the voice of the community, nor care about the exposure, but he has to take into account the feelings of consumers. Ma Jun said, "we hope that through the green choice of everyone, we can eliminate pollution for such a flourishing fashion industry."

Information disclosure is the key.

　　 Environmental regulation Information disclosure is an important foundation for green supply chain. Since the beginning of this year, five major printing and dyeing provinces in Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Guangdong, Fujian and Shandong have regularly issued quarterly reports focusing on monitoring and monitoring information of enterprises, while Zhejiang, Shandong and Fujian have started real-time monitoring of online monitoring data.

Ma Jun pointed out: "there is a very crucial problem. More and more enterprises are adopting a more subtle way of discharging. Some of them go deep into the river and go deep into the bottom of the sea. It is difficult for you to confirm and sample. Moreover, most of the enterprises in the areas where printing and dyeing are concentrated are discharged by nanoflakes and enter into a very complex network system. It is difficult to identify who discharged such waste water, so it is particularly necessary to promote relevant departments to disclose these information.

He also said that some pollutants need to be detected at the outlet of the workshop, some of which need to be detected at the main outlet, which are within the scope of the enterprise, and the average person has no right to enter, but the regulatory authorities have such a right.

"With the release of monitoring data, not only the green supply chain is possible, but also consumers can be concerned about these situations, and green consumption is also possible." Ma Jun said that green credit and environmental litigation will also be possible. A big problem in environmental litigation is the lack of evidence, because obtaining evidence is very difficult. Through the disclosure of these information, problems such as lax enforcement, local protection and so on, which are difficult to overcome for a long time, are likely to be solved to a certain extent.