Jil Sander Treasure Knife Is Old Again "Return"

"I have never been away from this industry."

Of course, before that, the special series she designed for UNIQLO has caused a great response.

But this is the last time she designed the advanced.

It's been eight years.

Besides, she is already more than 60 years old.

"Don't ask me why I came out again," she told reporters during the men's week. "You cut off a painter's hand, and he still has the urge to go on with it."

Ms. Jil Sander set up her personal brand in the 70s of last century. In 90s, she was highly praised for her symbolic minimalism and was awarded the title of "minimalist Queen".

In 1989, when the brand was listed, ten years later, the brand was valued at $200 million, and more than 90% of the profits came from the clothing series.

This is very prominent among the fashionable brands that made money by handbags and cosmetics lines at that time.

In 1999, in order to expand the development of the decoration line, the designer sold seventy-five percent of the company's shares to Prada group, which is famous for its shoes and handbags.

However, only six months later, Jil Sander resigned the position of the chairman of Jil Sander brand because of the disagreement with Prada group's CEO, Miuccia Prada's husband Patrizio Bertelli, and then resigned from the position of design director and completely broke away from the brand that he founded more than 20 years ago.

Jil Sander and Patrizio Bertelli are all control freaks. Jil Sander has to look at everything from fabric selection to runway models, while Patrizio is going to ask the office stationery of the company itself.

Someone once described Patrizio Bertelli as "laughing in the first second, and going into a rage in the next second".

Once in

The employees who worked in the group also said that PatrizioBertelli and his wife Miuccia Prada would quarrel with each other when they were working, and when they got off work, the two of them were reconciled.

Such people will inevitably quarrel with each other.

The designer himself kept silent about the specific reasons for the breakup.

It was written in the 2010 issue of Intelligent Life magazine: "Jil Sander insists on importing expensive fabrics from Japan - she thinks this is the foundation of brand success, but PatrizioBertelli insists on cutting costs continuously."

"I was the first designer to bring Japanese fabrics to the European market.

As you can imagine, it was a huge expense at that time. "

Jil Sander said.

The preference for Japanese fabrics is also one of the reasons for her collaboration with Japanese brand UNIQLO.

At that time, almost all the staff of the brand went away with Jil Sander.

Nevertheless, Patrizio Bertelli still has a tough attitude: "a brand like Jil Sander doesn't need to rely on the name of a designer."

He later accepted the Milan Vukmirovic, who had worked as a buyer in the boutique Colette and as a design assistant in the Gucci group, as the new design director of the Jil Sander brand.

Unfortunately, Milan Vukmirovic can not reproduce the essence of the brand's founder. Critics criticized the new series for lacking "sense of direction, more like Futurism in 60s than Minimalism".

"Patrizio Bertelli underestimated the ability of Jil Sander.

She does not create a series, she is a series.

In addition, Patrizio Bertelli has opened flagship stores all over the world, and has actively developed the brand collateral line. The rapid expansion has led to a downward trend in the brand.

So in 2003, Jil Sander, at the invitation of Patrizio Bertelli, returned to the Jil Sander brand and signed a six year contract.

"Timing is good and bad.

When we first started working together, it was a bad time.

We hope to show you that people can make up for mistakes. "

Jil Sander said at a news conference with Patrizio Bertelli.

In the interview of time magazine, she also used the word "natural" to describe her decision to become a design director when the brand was in crisis.

She said that during the period when she left, Patrizio Bertelli often contacted herself, and also had twenty-five percent of the voting rights in her hands, so she could not behave herself.

The Guardian reported that loyal customers with Jil Sander said the return was like "Barbra Streisand singing in Madison Square Garden".

Patrizio Bertelli, who has always been a hard spoken speaker, also said, "I have always believed in the past and now that the reasons for the existence of Jil Sander brand are closely related to the designers themselves."

This time, however, the cooperation between the two sides lasted only eighteen months.

In November 2004, Jil Sander continued to run away from the same brand because of disagreement.

Prada group found a Belgian designer Raf Simons, who was rarely known at that time and had never designed women's wear before, to be the new chief designer.

But at the same time, Patrizio Bertelli also publicly stated that whenever the offer is reasonable, the group will sell the Jil Sander brand at any time.

Sure enough, in February 2006, the group sold the JilSander brand to the Change Capital Partners, a British private investment firm founded for three years.

In this regard, Patrizio Bertelli said, "the group needs to focus on the two brands of Prada and Miu Miu", and believes that "CCP will provide the necessary investment for the future growth and development of Jil Sander brand".

CCP has always had the habit of buying brands for some time and then sell them again. Many people speculate that Jil Sander will buy her own brand.

But no.

In 2008, the Japanese Onward company bought the Jil Sander brand at the price of one hundred and sixty-seven million euros.

During this period, Jil Sander set up a consulting company. The most famous case was a special series named "+J" from 2009 to 2011 for the Japanese parity brand UNIQLO.

This is totally unexpected, because in the earlier interview, Jil Sander never showed interest in designing cheap goods ("a Jil Sander dress is not thrown away, but passed on to the next generation", and the famous "my mother often says we are too poor to buy too cheap stuff").

What attracted her to this creation? "I like to get into a larger and broader customer base.

For me, how to combine good quality with reasonable price is an interesting challenge. "

The real highlight is in the spring and summer series in 2013.

Unfortunately, because of the timing, Jil Sander intends to show new products to a few buyers and media.

However, she still revealed a message: the upcoming women's wear series "will have many skirts, with emphasis on morphology, especially prints and materials."

Journalists can't help questioning her love and hate with Prada.

"Maybe when I decided to marry Prada, I didn't take the time to think about who I married."

This sentence is enough to sum up all of this.

Of course, you will find that timeline in the official website of the brand does not mark the acquisition of Prada group, and designers return and run away.

Maybe this is the secret that designers never want to be told.