Shanghai's Dress Culture, Gu Embroidery, The Magnificent Flower Of Shanghai Handicrafts.

　　 I. Introduction

Gu embroidery is Shanghai The magnificent works of regional handicrafts. Gu embroidery was named after "Lu Xiang Yuan Gu Gu embroidery" because it originated from the owner of Lu Xiang Garden in Shanghai County, Songjiang County in the Ming Dynasty. It is a "painting embroidery" modeled on famous paintings. It is famous for its exquisite technique, elegant form and high artistry.

In the late Ming Dynasty, Gu Xiu, Lu Xiang Yuan, Shanghai County, Songjiang Prefecture, had a deep influence on the later generations. The four famous embroidery in the Qing Dynasty was benefited from Gu embroidery. The secret of Gu Ming embroidery in the Ming Dynasty mainly consists of six elements: the cultural and artistic conservation of the author, the elegance of themes, the integration of painting and embroidery, the fineness of materials, the flexible innovation of stitches, the spirit of choosing embroidery and the spirit of perseverance. Gu embroidery, represented by Han Ximeng, has a profound cultural and artistic connotation. It is a treasure of cultural relics and is collected by museums.

　 Two. Traceability

Gu Ming Shi was a thirty-eight year scholar in Ming Jiajing, and Guan Shang Bao Si Cheng, the official in the palace administration treasure, lived in Shanghai in his later years. "Good literature and art of the world" is well known and well cultivated. Under his influence and advocacy, his family members are also fond of art. They are good at calligraphy and are good at needlework, especially in embroidery. The purpose of embroidery is not only practical, but also the cultivation of women at the upper level and the pursuit of art at a higher level.

Under the influence of the Songjiang painting style prevailing in the world, they studied and inherited the artistic characteristics and artistic techniques of the boudoir embroidery in the Song Dynasty, and made innovations on this basis. They choose the elegant and refined paintings as the blueprint, observe and carefully analyze the objects, and create needles such as needles, trocars, and needles in order to imitate the brush and ink skills of painting. They split the silk thread into 36 silk, "the splinter is too thin, and the needle is like a milled color. There is an esoteric biography, so it can be dyed and written, and the flowers and flowers are superb. "

Gu's family members, who were earlier engaged in painting and embroidering, were Gu's eldest son, Gu Hui's concubine. In the hands of Gu embroidery, the highest attainments and the most representative are those of Hsu Hsin Meng, who is a little later than Mu's Gu sun's wife. Gu Mingshi's granddaughter, Han HSI Meng Shan, had a clever mind in the application of acupuncture and color, and significantly improved the artistic quality of this embroidery method. Gu embroidery It is also called "painting embroidery". Gu embroidery was popular throughout the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It had the momentum of "no embroidery under the surname Gu". "Gu embroidery" specifically called for the general name of embroidery. After that, Suzhou embroidery, Xiang embroidery and Shu embroidery all benefited from Gu embroidery techniques.

According to the "Songjiang County Chronicles" of Chong Zhen in the Ming Dynasty, "Gu embroidery" is used as a flower and bird and a sachet as a character. In the development of Gu embroidery, Han Ximeng, the granddaughter of Gu Ming Shi, is the most outstanding. The landscapes, characters, flowers and birds that have been embroidered have reached the level of "no wonder". The the Imperial Palace Museum has more than ten copies of her song and Yuan Dynasties collection. Among them, "wash horses", "White Deer pictures", "squirrel grapes" and "lentils dragonflies" are excellent products. These works have reached the artistic conception that people can not tell whether they are embroidered or painted. Dong Qichang, a representative figure of the Songjiang painting school in the Ming Dynasty, praised the Gu embroidery very much. He called it "Seiko" and "peers" could not stand by it. A man is so skillful that he is wrong. Han Ximeng created the stage of "painting embroidery", which was the initial stage of Gu embroidery development. The embroidery was mostly family needlework, and the world was called "Han Yuanxiu", which was basically used for family possession or gift.

After Han Ximeng, Gu's family fell, and gradually relied on the embroidery of the ladies' family to maintain their livelihood and recruit women workers. Gu Lanyu, the great granddaughter of Gu Ming Shi, received Mu and Han's pro, and passed on his skills. According to the records of the Songjiang Fu in the Jiaqing year of the Qing Dynasty, Gu Lanyu wrote "work needles", set up the curtains to teach the disciples, and the female disciples came to school. Gu embroidery needles, the name of Gu embroidery overflows the world. In the period of Daoguang in the Qing Dynasty, Ding Pei in Songjiang not only embroidered embroidery but also drew pictures. "After the imitation is called" Gu embroidery ", embroidery has been matched with Gu embroidery. "

However, Gu embroidery's excellence is based on high quality entertainers and a large number of working hours, which restrict many conditions, so it is difficult to popularize and make it difficult to continue. In the late Qing Dynasty, Gu embroidery was gradually annihilated, and was almost forgotten by people. It was replaced by Suzhou embroidery, which was absorbed by Gu embroidery techniques and nutrition.

Shanghai Lu Xiang Garden belongs to Songjiang Prefecture, and Songjiang people have been appointed to restore Gu embroidery. In the 20s of last century, the Songjiang charity "whole hall" set up the "Song Yun Women Vocational School". From the first grade to the three grade of junior middle school, all the women's Embroidery classes were set up. In recent nine years, Dai Mingjiao, an old man who was a student of the class, is a representative of Gu embroidery in Songjiang for nearly half a century. She wrote the book "Gu embroidery needling method". Unfortunately, the school was destroyed by the artillery fire of Japanese invaders and never recovered.

In the 70s of last century, in response to Comrade Zhou Enlai's instructions on excavating the development of Chinese traditional arts and crafts, Songjiang handicraft factory began preparations for restoring Gu embroidery art at the end of 1972. Dai Mingjiao, who had studied Gu embroidery in Song Yun women's school in two and 30s, accepted the art of receiving. Soon, because of the "Cultural Revolution" and other political movements, the newly revived Gu embroidery was aborted by the charge of "Reviving the ancients and restoring the ancients".

In 1978, after the the third Plenary Session of the 11th CPC Central Committee of the CPC Central Committee, the Songjiang embroidery factory set up Gu embroidery group to restore Gu Gu's research, art and production. Later, Songjiang handicraft factory formally established Gu embroidery workshop to organize production. Songjiang Gu embroidery artists have created a series of new works of Gu embroidery, which are beautiful and elegant. Songjiang Gu embroidery, like drought and rain, has begun to show its vitality.

In May 1987, the Songjiang Museum held the art exhibition of Gu embroidery under the support of Songjiang handicraft factory, introducing the history and new life of Gu embroidery to the world. A large number of new works and live performances are exhibited in the exhibition. In early June, it was approved by the Shanghai Municipal Bureau of culture and transferred to the Confucious'Temple exhibition area of the first international art festival in Shanghai. {page_break}

　　 Three, artistic characteristics

Gu embroidery is unique. Embroidery The techniques are mainly embodied in:

1, semi embroidered, semi painted, embroidered and painted. Gu embroidery takes the landscape, flowers and birds, figures and other heroes in the song and Yuan Dynasties as the facsimile. The pictures are all embroidered and painted together and embroidered instead of paintings. This is also the most unique of them. For example, in the group's axis, the characters in the picture are painted on the background and embroidered in the background, and the faces are embroidered and painted first, while the clouds are painted directly with the brush instead of embroidered. This bold and innovative technique is especially vivid in displaying landscapes and figures.

2, acupuncture is changeable and new. Gu embroidery's needles are complex and changeable. There are more than ten needles such as needle, needle, seed needle, needle, nail, single needle, and scalp needle.

3, chromatic color, complementary color. The exquisite embroidery lines used in Ming embroidery are the middle color lines that have not been seen before in the song embroidery. Gu embroidery in order to more vividly demonstrate the rich color effects of landscapes, insects, fish, flowers and birds, and so on, and adopt various intermediate tones such as the old, tender, light and shade of scenery to make up the color and color. So as to fully show the natural scenery of the original.

Gu embroidery was different from the four famous embroidery of Su, Yue, Xiang and Shu from the beginning. It embroidered calligraphy and painting works and became a unique art. It combines Song Xiuzhong's traditional acupuncture techniques with traditional Chinese painting techniques, and uses the pen to write, to line up the ink, to sketch the dizzy dye and the whole body, and to add splendour to the splendid culture and art of the motherland. In addition to traditional paintings and embroidery, the products of Gu embroidery include pajamas, bathrobes, tablecloths, pillowcases, quilt covers and scarves. Gu embroidery has various needles, rich colors, clear silk threads, and mostly soft satin, silk and terylene, nylon, dacron and so on.

　　 Four, inheritance significance

At present, the largest collection of Gu embroidery is the Liaoning Provincial Museum, of which eight are embroidered with "Han Yuan embroidery" and "Han's red lady". The Shanghai museum contains four embroideries, such as Han Ximeng's "prawn and shrimp". In addition, Jiangsu Nanjing Museum, Zhenjiang Museum, Suzhou Museum and so on also collect Gu Gu embroidery, such as "Xinghuacun" and "landscape three longevity". "Gu embroidery" has a reputation far and wide in the new era of opening to the outside world. Now Gu embroidery can not only embroider small works, but also embroider large and complex works.

Gu embroidery is a product of the combination of folk embroidery and literati painting. Practitioners must have traditional calligraphy and painting culture. Because of this, it is difficult to popularize, and the production is time-consuming. Since 1950s, a lot of Gu embroidery factories have been run in Shanghai, and now they are basically closed. Influenced by modern industry, a large number of embroidered imitation products are pouring into the market, forming the impact on Gu embroidery. Although the name of Gu embroidery is flourishing, the true meaning of "embroidery" is almost impossible to find in Shanghai. Therefore, measures must be taken to rescue, protect, collate and excavate this traditional embroidery art.