Traceability Of The Chinese Tunic Suit: Red Gang Produced The First "Chinese Tunic Suit".
Zhuang Zedong, Secretary General of China National Costume Association and the seventh generation successor of Hong Band tailor
Once
Down and out
To those who could not support their families, they became the founders of Hong Bang tailors. A tailor who had mended his clothes for Western sailors became the first Chinese tunic maker.
What is the development process of Hong Bang tailors? What is the origin of Hong Bang tailors and Sun Zhongshan? The reporter interviewed Zhuang Zedong, the Secretary General of China National Costume Association and the seventh generation successor of Hong Band tailor.
In 2005, Zhuang Zedong was awarded the book of inheritance by Jiang Jiming, the sixth generation of the red band tailor.
Hong Bang tailor
One of the seventh generation of descendants.
The first "Zhongshan suit" came out in Japan.
In the late nineteenth Century, Zhang Shangyi, a seamstress who was born in Ningbo, Zhejiang, was forced to take advantage of the busy farming season to help cook and cook fires on fishing boats.
One day, when suddenly the wind was blowing, the small fishing boat was blown away by the wind. Zhang Shangyi was in distress and was taken to Yokohama, Japan by a cargo ship.
In a strange foreign land, Zhang Shangyi, a penniless man, lives in a dock. Luckily he has a needle and thread to live by helping the sailors to mend their clothes.
At that time, many Russian fishing boats and Holland cargo ships were anchored in Yokohama, Japan, and many foreign sailors came and went.
Zhang Shangyi found that the suits they wore were simple and agile.
Because of the handful of suits in Yokohama at that time, Zhang Shangyi began to help the seamen to mend their suits.
On one occasion, he took the opportunity to make up his suit and secretly took apart the folder and face of his guest suit, and drew it on the paper according to the pattern of each part, then cut it off and became a model for his suit.
With these models, he studied and pondered over and over again, and finally learned how to make suits.
Because of his fine workmanship and good service, he soon became famous.
Yokohama.
。
{page_break}
After that, he took the group of villagers from the same village to Japan in a batch. These people came to Japan to become Zhang Shangyi's extended management team, and their business grew bigger and bigger.
In this way, the first batch of Chinese red gang tailors were born.
Because they were specially designed for the "red hair" (the westerners who had the red hair of the Russians, the Dutch and other Westerners) at the time, the names of the "red gang" came from them.
At that time, because of the failure of the Guangzhou uprising, Sun Zhongshan often traveled to China and Japan to plan the establishment of the Central Committee.
Starting from the purpose of reflecting the new look of the new regime, Sun Zhongshan began to conceive the style of new clothes.
At that time, Zhang Shangyi was a very skilled person in Japan, and because of his tailor's fame in Japan, Sun Zhongshan and Zhang Shangyi met with friends.
Sun Zhongshan told him about the conception and design of the costume. After studying Zhang Shangyi and his son many times, he made the first "Zhongshan suit" in Japan.
This "Zhongshan suit" is the later Chinese tunic suit.
embryonic form
。
However, there are other arguments for who is the first Chinese tunic maker.
There is a saying that "Chinese tunic suit" is the hand of Ningbo tailor Wang Cai Yun who runs the men's suit shop in Tibet Road, Nanjing, Shanghai. In 1919, Sun Zhongshan changed the Japanese army uniform she wore to Henry's clothing store in Shanghai into a casual dress and became the origin of "Zhongshan pack" in Tibet.
For these rumors, Zhuang Zedong told reporters: "for this matter, we have been debating for decades. According to the relevant written records and the matching of time and environment, the first" Zhongshan suit "was born in Japan, and was made by Zhang Shangyi, the founder of Hong Band tailor and his son.
In the future, no matter who improved the Chinese tunic suit, it was carried out on the basis of the first one.
New ideas of "new red gang"
Before the revolution of 1911, most Chinese wore clothes such as long gowns and Mandarin liriodenes.
The red band tailor returned from Japan to return to China.
Because Shanghai is a "ten seas", it is also a combination of China and Western countries, and China and Western countries.
The red gang tailor brought back the western-style skills learnt from abroad, and Shanghai began to show all kinds of western style clothes. After the revolution of 1911, the popular clothing culture was proud of western style clothes.
The red gang tailor first used his suit as his main garment. Because the red gang tailor made the first "Chinese tunic suit", the prestige of the red gang tailor was greater. They had absolute authority on the design and production of the Chinese tunic suit.
Because of the influence of the Chinese tunic suit, the Hong Bang tailor has greater influence and impetus in China.
Many of Zhang Shangyi's disciples began to organize schools, do training and write teaching materials. At that time, the red gang school was founded in Shanghai.
The revolution of 1911 has changed the Chinese society and its organizational structure with unstoppable momentum. It has brought new vitality to Chinese society, but also has a tremendous impact on the culture of the Chinese nation. The pformation of clothing is the natural product of this influence.
This new clothing culture has broken the feudalism hierarchy system that has been formed for a long time, and laid a solid foundation for the development of new Chinese costumes.
Zhang Shangyi's disciples all over Beijing, Guangdong, Tianjin and other places. After the revolution of 1911, they set up factories in the whole country to promote new clothing skills.
Zhuang Zedong said that the production of Chinese tunic suits has expanded the influence of Hong Bang tailors. The influence of Hong Bang tailors on the development of China's garment industry has been fueled by such influence.
The red clipper tailor's grand occasion is the product of the times. The red gang tailor has an extremely high manual skill. In the background of the red gang tailor, the red gang tailor is a group of excellent technical people in China. They can make a suit without measuring the size, and visually observe the guests' stature and stature, so that they can tailor the right Western-style clothes. People call it a knife.
The red gang tailors are handed down from generation to generation.
After the liberation, the successors of the gang of red tailors tailored clothes for the central leaders and ambassadors of various countries in China.
The red capital, which is specially designed for national leaders, is the branch of Hongbang.
Zhuang Zedong, as the seventh generation descendant of Hong Bang tailor, has his own opinion. He advocates using machine to make mass production under the premise of retaining handicraft skills, and the efficiency of making clothes purely by manual technology is too low.
With the development of the times and the emergence of new and high technology equipment, the Hong Bang tailor has no longer been able to make clothing production by hand. The red gang should also follow the pace of the times to meet the needs of social development, and the machine technology is far more precise than manual technology.
Of course, handcraft must not be lost. It can be done by manual technology when customized for a specific group of people.
{page_break}
Zhuang Zedong said many times: "our group is" new red gang ", we should learn from the old red gang to study the spirit of technology and superb handcraft skills. At the same time, we should consider how to make Hong Bang tailors live full of vitality in the process of inheritance.
He is now engaged in the design and promotion of the Chinese national costume, and it is his dream to create a new era dress uniform. He firmly believes that this is not just a dream. He is also practicing it. In order to expand the influence of the Chinese costume on the whole country, the national costume design Grand Prix organized by him will also start the TV selection in the whole country in October 2011. The finals will be held in the bird nest of Beijing in May 2012.
Chinese traditional clothing and culture need such people to inherit.
In the late nineteenth Century, Zhang Shangyi, a seamstress who was born in Ningbo, Zhejiang, was forced to take advantage of the busy farming season to help cook and cook fires on fishing boats.
One day, when suddenly the wind was blowing, the small fishing boat was blown away by the wind. Zhang Shangyi was in distress and was taken to Yokohama, Japan by a cargo ship.
In a strange foreign land, Zhang Shangyi, a penniless man, lives in a dock. Luckily he has a needle and thread to live by helping the sailors to mend their clothes.
At that time, many Russian fishing boats and Holland cargo ships were anchored in Yokohama, Japan, and many foreign sailors came and went.
Zhang Shangyi found that the suits they wore were simple and agile.
Because of the handful of suits in Yokohama at that time, Zhang Shangyi began to help the seamen to mend their suits.
On one occasion, he took the opportunity to make up his suit and secretly took apart the folder and face of his guest suit, and drew it on the paper according to the pattern of each part, then cut it off and became a model for his suit.
With these models, he studied and pondered over and over again, and finally learned how to make suits.
Because of his fine workmanship and good service, he soon became famous in Yokohama.
After that, he took the group of villagers from the same village to Japan in a batch. These people came to Japan to become Zhang Shangyi's extended management team, and their business grew bigger and bigger.
In this way, the first batch of Chinese red gang tailors were born.
Because they were specially designed for the "red hair" (the westerners who had the red hair of the Russians, the Dutch and other Westerners) at the time, the names of the "red gang" came from them.
At that time, because of the failure of the Guangzhou uprising, Sun Zhongshan often traveled to China and Japan to plan the establishment of the Central Committee.
Starting from the purpose of reflecting the new look of the new regime, Sun Zhongshan began to conceive the style of new clothes.
At that time, Zhang Shangyi was a very skilled person in Japan, and because of his tailor's fame in Japan, Sun Zhongshan and Zhang Shangyi met with friends.
Sun Zhongshan told him about the conception and design of the costume. After studying Zhang Shangyi and his son many times, he made the first "Zhongshan suit" in Japan.
This "Zhongshan suit" is the rudiment of the Chinese tunic suit.
However, there are other arguments for who is the first Chinese tunic maker.
There is a saying that "Chinese tunic suit" is the hand of Ningbo tailor Wang Cai Yun who runs the men's suit shop in Tibet Road, Nanjing, Shanghai. In 1919, Sun Zhongshan changed the Japanese army uniform she wore to Henry's clothing store in Shanghai into a casual dress and became the origin of "Zhongshan pack" in Tibet.
For these rumors, Zhuang Zedong told reporters: "for this matter, we have been debating for decades. According to the relevant written records and the matching of time and environment, the first" Zhongshan suit "was born in Japan, and was made by Zhang Shangyi, the founder of Hong Band tailor and his son.
In the future, no matter who improved the Chinese tunic suit, it was carried out on the basis of the first one.
{page_break}
New ideas of "new red gang"
Before the revolution of 1911, most Chinese wore clothes such as long gowns and Mandarin liriodenes.
The red band tailor returned from Japan to return to China.
Because Shanghai is a "ten seas", it is also a combination of China and Western countries, and China and Western countries.
The red gang tailor brought back the western-style skills learnt from abroad, and Shanghai began to show all kinds of western style clothes. After the revolution of 1911, the popular clothing culture was proud of western style clothes.
The red gang tailor first used his suit as his main garment. Because the red gang tailor made the first "Chinese tunic suit", the prestige of the red gang tailor was greater. They had absolute authority on the design and production of the Chinese tunic suit.
Because of the influence of the Chinese tunic suit, the Hong Bang tailor has greater influence and impetus in China.
Many of Zhang Shangyi's disciples began to organize schools, do training and write teaching materials. At that time, the red gang school was founded in Shanghai.
The revolution of 1911 has changed the Chinese society and its organizational structure with unstoppable momentum. It has brought new vitality to Chinese society, but also has a tremendous impact on the culture of the Chinese nation. The pformation of clothing is the natural product of this influence.
This new clothing culture has broken the feudalism hierarchy system that has been formed for a long time, and laid a solid foundation for the development of new Chinese costumes.
Zhang Shangyi's disciples all over Beijing, Guangdong, Tianjin and other places. After the revolution of 1911, they set up factories in the whole country to promote new clothing skills.
Zhuang Zedong said that the production of Chinese tunic suits has expanded the influence of Hong Bang tailors. The influence of Hong Bang tailors on the development of China's garment industry has been fueled by such influence.
The red clipper tailor's grand occasion is the product of the times. The red gang tailor has an extremely high manual skill. In the background of the red gang tailor, the red gang tailor is a group of excellent technical people in China. They can make a suit without measuring the size, and visually observe the guests' stature and stature, so that they can tailor the right Western-style clothes. People call it a knife.
The red gang tailors are handed down from generation to generation.
After the liberation, the successors of the gang of red tailors tailored clothes for the central leaders and ambassadors of various countries in China.
The red capital, which is specially designed for national leaders, is the branch of Hongbang.
Zhuang Zedong, as the seventh generation descendant of Hong Bang tailor, has his own opinion. He advocates using machine to make mass production under the premise of retaining handicraft skills, and the efficiency of making clothes purely by manual technology is too low.
With the development of the times and the emergence of new and high technology equipment, the Hong Bang tailor has no longer been able to make clothing production by hand. The red gang should also follow the pace of the times to meet the needs of social development, and the machine technology is far more precise than manual technology.
Of course, handcraft must not be lost. It can be done by manual technology when customized for a specific group of people.
Zhuang Zedong said many times: "our group is" new red gang ", we should learn from the old red gang to study the spirit of technology and superb handcraft skills. At the same time, we should consider how to make Hong Bang tailors live full of vitality in the process of inheritance.
He is now engaged in the design and promotion of the Chinese national costume, and it is his dream to create a new era dress uniform. He firmly believes that this is not just a dream. He is also practicing it. In order to expand the influence of the Chinese costume on the whole country, the national costume design Grand Prix organized by him will also start the TV selection in the whole country in October 2011. The finals will be held in the bird nest of Beijing in May 2012.
Chinese traditional clothing and culture need such people to inherit.
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