Donghua University Experts Interpret "&Nbsp" From Many Angles, And Appeal To Promote The Construction Of Dress System In A Timely Manner.

Hanfu, October 9th

From a historical perspective, "the national costume itself is best served by the need."

Bao Mingxin is a professor and director of the art design department of the clothing College of Donghua University. He has been engaged in the research on the history of clothing for a long time.

Professor Bao gave his answer to the question of "what the national costume is." clothing is a very important part of the national system.

National costume is a kind of institutionalized dress, which shows the specific identity of a nation, a nation and an individual from the perspective of clothing.

In the history of China, since the beginning of the Eastern Han Dynasty, the records of the costumes have been recorded in various dynasties' histories, such as public records and so on.

According to Bao Mingxin, the feudal dynasty used costumes to distinguish people's ranks and powers.

The revolution of 1911, especially after the founding of new China, advocated human freedom, equality and democracy, and opposed privileges. In particular, it opposed the use of institutional clothing to distinguish poverty from wealth.

Therefore, except for a few professional sectors, such as the army and postal service, there is a tendency to dress in a simple and identical fashion.

However, with the development of the society, Chinese people participate in major international exchange activities and major festival activities more and more frequently. The dress requirements and tastes of the public have been gradually raised, and the demand for clothing to highlight national identity and personal tastes has gradually increased.

"Although it is difficult to unify Chinese clothing, this discussion is of positive significance for enhancing the cultural accomplishment of the Chinese people, and also has positive significance for the construction of a harmonious society in China."

In Bao Mingxin's view, China's state can not be fully represented by taking any existing form. "China's national costume is not a garment, but a series of clothing. It must have Chinese characteristics, use Chinese elements to mark the Chinese nationality and identity, and dress according to different venues, time and objects."

Professor Bao said frankly that the implementation of national costume is a matter of need to face up to and solve the problems of ethnic diversity and individual differences in China's multi-ethnic country.

"In the contemporary China with multiple values and emphasis on individuality, it is definitely not appropriate to enforce it. It should encourage more public attention and the participation of designers and enterprises. The public has gradually accepted the corresponding ideas and designs, and the national service will be" needed ".

From the perspective of design: "national costume should embody design elements, positioning design styles, and the integration of different fields."

Professor Liu Xiaogang is the first master and doctor of clothing art design discipline in China. He has led the team to design professional clothing for the Chinese people's Liberation Army and World Expo, Shanghai. Today, the first professional clothing Research Institute in the country has been established. It is studying the professional clothes, and regularly releases the trend of professional wear at home and abroad.

"National costume is a symbolic dress, and its design is a difficult problem," the former top ten designer said.

In Liu Xiaogang's view, the national costume is different from the industry uniform. Its design goal is to make the design result to the greatest extent that a country and its people are widely accepted and generally embraced.

This is the prerequisite for the popularization and application of national costume.

Therefore, the design process should be based on a wide range of public opinion, and make certain provisions on the elements that constitute the national costume, so as to facilitate people to identify and evaluate the national costume.

"The design of the proposed national costume can be promoted by three principles," Liu Xiaogang said.

The design elements appearing in national costume should be able to withstand textual research, refine from traditional costumes and national culture, respect the cultural customs of many nationalities, and satisfy the universal aesthetic of universal nationality.

The two is the positioning design style.

The design style of national costume should be based on respecting traditional culture and embodying national aesthetics, using design elements that imply certain meanings, and integrating into the advantages of international clothing with modern meaning.

The three is the integration of division and field.

National costume should be a series of ceremonial costumes that distinguish the occasion.

From the point of view of popularization, it can be divided into two editions: the advanced edition and the ordinary edition, with the stipulation design element use quantity distinction.

Liu Xiaogang also suggested that the national costume is a whole series of clothing concept. In order to make the national costume meet the needs of different ceremonial occasions and climate change, it not only reflects the standardization of the use of the national costume, but also enhances the ensemble effect of the national costume. In the beginning of the design, in addition to considering the clothing area of men and women, it also attempts to establish a systematic style library of the national costume, forming a series of national service system from inside to outside, from top to bottom, from winter to summer, from simple to complex.

At the same time, we should soften the recognition elements of the national costume and the factors of voluntary participation by the public, so that the public will be more willing to accept it.

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Cultural perspective: "national costume reflects the inheritance and inheritance of cultural heritage."

"Actually, people are talking about clothes today. The phenomenon behind the phenomenon is not about clothes, but more about the return of the public's respect for Chinese dress etiquette and the expectation of the inheritance and development of Chinese clothing culture." this is Professor Bian Xiangyang from the clothing Institute of Donghua University. He is mainly devoted to teaching and research of fashion culture and fashion industry. He was invited to lecture on topics such as Chinese fashion and fashion in twentieth Century at the invitation of Harvard University.

Bian Xiangyang believes that more emphasis should be placed on the analysis and research from the perspective of culture and public psychology.

"Clothing at any time is a microcosm and concrete manifestation of many social elements."

Professor Bian told reporters that the dress system in the Republic of China was actually a combination of Chinese and Western culture. It considered both traditional customs, gowns, jacket and skirt, and also had international practice. Western-style clothes and tie, especially the new suits with cheongsam and Chinese tunic suit, were the mixture of traditional Chinese dress and Western fashion.

The clothing of new China embodies a plain idealistic view of fashion.

After the reform and opening up, Chinese clothing has gone through the process of the popularization of a western style garment. Now the dressing concept has returned to the re creation of Chinese clothing and the re application of Chinese elements, which shows more refined and exquisite dressing styles and dress etiquette.

"National costume must be inherited, through specific elements, reflect the implication of Chinese traditional culture, embody the essential characteristics of Chinese culture, and at the same time innovate, keep pace with the times, conform to the changing times, conform to international practices, conform to the current people's dressing habits".

Bian Xiangyang also stressed that clothing itself is a spontaneous and individualized behavior of the public and has a strong customary color. Therefore, China's national costume must be "custom" and the Chinese acceptability should be taken into consideration, which is in line with the psychological state of the Chinese people.