Costume Designer Qualification Criteria - Operation Ability 4

　　 Understanding of structural design, tailoring and sewing

Learning from structural design and cutting technology is also the basic knowledge that fashion designers must master. Structural design is part of the style design. The various styles of clothing are actually completed through tailoring and changing the size itself. If you do not know the fabric, structure and tailoring, the design can only be "on paper". Do not think that in the company, the structural design and tailoring is a matter of printing master. The designers who only draw pictures and do not know how to print are definitely not a perfect and mature designer. Without knowing the pattern and structural changes, the design will be unreasonable, immature and even impossible.

Students in schools often encounter such problems. Because they can not play the edition, they can only ask masters to play the edition, but they draw a kind of effect. They are totally out of shape and fail to achieve the desired results. This shows that the plate itself directly determines the shape and overall effect of the garment. In twentieth Century, many masters started directly from the tailoring and structure of clothing, and used them as very important design languages, such as Barron, Langman, Viv Omette, Mitsumoto Teruji, etc. As we can see from the works of the masters of the Department, the design of clothing is rich in meaning and expressive. Its deep, implicit and unpublicized style is worth carefully savoring. If we are not proficient in tailoring and structural design, our appreciation of the work will only stay on the superficial surface, and the design can only be an empty shelf and can not withstand scrutiny and trial.

Sewing is also the key to dress design. The various sewing skills and methods we do not understand will also affect our learning of structural design and tailoring. The way and effect of sewing are also part of the design. Different sewing methods can produce different appearance effects and even special texture effects. Some designers try to use the "sewing effect" as the design language to try new effects, which is very popular in sincerity design. This requires designers to be familiar with all kinds of processing equipment and garment sewing machines in the clothing industry, and to know the knitting and weaving processes well.

Understanding and mastering the history of clothing development and the style of masters in second Century is a shortcut for fashion designers. From CHANNEL in the early twentieth Century to Galliano in the early part of this century, every designer has left us a constant beauty in the history of clothing: 20, 30s, elegant and romantic low back dress, elegant fashion in 50s, 60, 70s rebel weird Hippie / Punk dress, 80s wide shoulders, loose body masculine professional women's wear, 90s sweet charming lace, * costumes... Only by studying the development history of clothing in twentieth Century can we understand the design style and artistic expression of the masters of that era and draw on their own costume design.

From 80 to 90s twentieth Century, the German designer Carle Lagrange was the chief designer of CHANNEL company. In order to reverse the plight of CHANNEL company and inject new vitality into it, Carle Lagrange first started with the design style of Xia Nile brand, so that he could write a paragraph on one side of CHANNEL's style in decades. After fully understanding the style and design history of CHANNEL, Carle Lage Phil changed the dull and monotonous of CHANNEL suit, and launched the 90s CHANNEL, which made the CHANNEL dress rebuilt and won the love of young women again, thus restoring the vitality of CHANNEL brand in the past.

It can be seen that every designer has to make considerable efforts to make the design works recognized and successful.