"Costumes And Costume Culture 18" Yao Costumes [Map]
Yao nationality It is one of the 15 ethnic minorities whose population exceeds one million. It is mainly distributed in more than 130 counties and cities in 6 provinces and autonomous regions of Guangxi, Hunan, Yunnan, Guangdong, Guizhou and Jiangxi. Guangxi Yao accounts for 61% of the total Yao population in the country, followed by Hunan, and Yunnan again. "Decentralization and small concentration" are the main characteristics of the Yao nationality's population distribution.
Yunnan Yao population accounts for 10.37% of the Yao population in the country, more than half of them are distributed in Wenshan Zhuang and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, and 4 counties in Funing, Malipo, Maguan and Guangnan are more. In addition, Honghe Hani and Yi Autonomous Prefecture of Pingbian, Jin Ping, Hekou and other counties, Mengla County of Xishuangbanna, Simao, Jingdong, Jiangcheng, Mojiang and other counties are distributed.
According to historical records, Yao is part of the "Changsha man" and "Wuling man" around the Dongting Lake in pre Qin and Han and Tang Dynasties. Because of the different reasons of clothing and residential areas, they claim to have "show", "door", "Meng", "harmony" and so on. He also said "blue indigo Yao", "red head Yao", "white line Yao", "black Yao", "Sha Yao" and so on.
The exact time of the entry of Yao nationality into Honghe Prefecture is not clearly recorded. However, in the area of today's Wen Shan and Honghe Prefecture, there were "Miao people" (including the Yao nationality) living in the Tang Dynasty, and some Yao nationalities moved from Huguang to the Ming and Qing Dynasties. There are basically 4 routes for the Yao to enter the Red River State: one is the branch from Wenshan to Yuanyang, Honghe, Lvchun, Jin Ping, Pingbian, and estuary from the Guangdong and Guangxi provinces; the two is from Wenshan to the mouth of the river, then to Pingbian and Jin Ping; the three is from Guangxi to Guizhou by Mengzi, then to Jin Ping and the mouth of the river; four, from Vietnam to Vietnam, then into the mouth, Jin Ping, and Guangxi. The Yao ethnic group in the state is composed of "Xiu men" and "Ji men" (also known as "Yu mian"). "Xiu men" has a relatively large population, including what he calls "blue indigo Yao", "Ping Ding Yao", "Bai line Yao", "Sha Yao" and "black Yao". Both believed that the ancestor was pan Hu, and his ancestral home was Dongting Lake.
The language belongs to the Yao language branch of the Miao Yao language group of the Han Tibetan language family. Because there are different dialects and dialects in the region, but as long as the Yao nationality can speak to each other, the "Xiu men" branch communicates with the Miao language in Hainan Island. The language of Yao nationality in Honghe Prefecture is basically "mian". The Yao nationality had no words, and did not know when to start. After passing by father and son, master and apprentice, he used Yao Yin Yao to borrow Chinese characters to record his own history, scriptures, poems and letters, contracts and economic accounts.
Individual family constitutes the basic unit of village society. Among the independent families, the elder male is the parent, and the father is not the elder brother. When the brothers became married, they separated from their families under the auspices of their uncle, and set up a separate gateway. The family property was divided equally, and the son-in-law and the unmarried child were also entitled to share. The ancestral home is shared by the young children with their parents. The brothers after the division still have the obligation to support the elderly and to support young siblings. The status of women is lower than that of men, without inheritance rights. They can not sit at the same table with men, but can not laugh with their fathers and brothers, but to a certain extent, they are respected by men. For example, when they go home and have to go out with the hostess, women can accumulate "private money", and widows can remarry the financial and private money they can bring away.
In addition to weddings and funerals, festivals, sacrifices and ethical provisions, there are still taboos: the "emperor's head" of men and women, and no one can touch it. Mothers are not full months, and outsiders have access to their homes. At the front of the house, you must have clothes to dry, and not to sit in the doorway. No litter on God's table. Do not step over the fire pond and spit in the fire pond. The tripod iron frame on the fire can not be moved at will. Pregnant women and pregnant women can not stay at God's desk. Do not step on the grave and dig stones in the cemetery. It is strictly forbidden to cut down the Fengshui forest behind the village.
The five colors are gorgeous. Clothes & Accessories Characteristics. All fabrics except for some decorative lace, silk, wool and some silver ornaments and beads are all made of cotton, self spun, dyed and dyed. Men wear a pair of lapel or sloping Lapel suits, long rows of centipede shaped silver buckles or cloth buttons, wear new crotch trousers, and wear a horsetail flat flat cap or scarf. The men's scarves are embroidered with multicolored patterns and embroidered with square patterns on their backs. They are called "plate Wang Yin". Children wear a circular flat top hat regardless of whether they are male or female. It is a red tassel with a head wrapped on top or a flag shaped top; a straight sleeved long sleeved tights, a cuffed and garment edge embroidered with red pattern, a red belt, a red apron, a silver pin and a red ball, a thin leg trousers with red sides, a red pointed shoe, a silver collar, bracelet, ring, etc. it is therefore called "red headed Yao" and "Xiu men" women wearing a blue coat. They are long above the knees, and the rear skirts are mopped. "Jimen" women are dressed in red and red scarves from head to toe. Hair top, Lvchun County bowl hairpin buckle, other areas covered with banana leaves or shoot leaves made of dome, and then the top of the center has a round white cloth blue scarves. The "Xiu men" woman along the Qiaotou River Estuary in Hekou County is called "Bai Xianyao".
The "Xiu gate" that lives in the valley is called "Sha Yao" because of its interaction with the sand people of the Zhuang nationality. The black top of the woman's head is dressed in a black long coat resembling the Han Qipao, with narrow leg trousers, usually without lace. No matter what branch, Yao women like to comb their hair with lard, repair eyebrows, and use blue and blue materials. When they go out, men wear back nets and horsetail woven nets, and women carry a red and black bag on their backs.
There are two kinds of men's jackets, one is the left side and the other is the left one. pants Length varies, some are long and feet, some are short to knees, mostly blue and black. Men wear long white trousers to the knee in the big Yao village of Nandan, Guangxi. Guangdong Lian Nan male hair plate bun, head wrapped red cloth, inserted wild pheasant hair.
There are many kinds of women's clothing: some wear no collar short clothes, belts and skirts, some have long knee knits, waist belts and long belts, wear shorts or trousers, and others embroider designs on collar, sleeves and trousers. The women of Guangxi's big Yao mountain wear three arcs of big silver hairpin with two heads upturned. Many women wear silver bracelets, earrings and necklaces besides silver decorations. Women in northern Guangdong and Yunnan used to wear a hat with high support, black cloth and drooping red tassels.
Yao Earrings
jewelry 。 It is in Jinxiu, Guangxi. Silver, ring shaped, not connected at the beginning and tail. The diameter of the ring is usually 3 - 6 cm, in various forms. Rings are often decorated with ornaments, such as swords, fish, hearts, etc. A ring of silver thread or a variety of ornaments. There are also various ornaments under the ring, such as thin silver sheets with tapered and bent ends. The shape is made of flat silver thread, swirling silver ring and ornaments, plus large circles and no pattern silver pieces. Women and children fall down on the earlobe. On New Year's day, some women wear two or three pairs.
Yao nationality hood
Clothing technology. Commonly known as "pa". Popular in Jinxiu, Guangxi, popular in the Qing Dynasty Qianlong years. For rectangular cross stitch brocade. It is about 77 centimeters long and 56 centimeters wide, with black cloth as the bottom and embroidered pattern. The two ends have black thread with a length of 5 centimeters. The four corners are red and yellow, and about 20 centimeters long. Using natural scenery as the pattern, the skeleton is arranged in a straight line into two sides, forming a quadrangle. The flower is octagonal, called "big tree flower" and "small tree flower". The "eight" shape is arranged parallel to the pine flower. The main flower is the flower of the big tree, the main flower is the small tree flower, the flower is separated by the pine flower, the two sides of the main flower are separated from the continuous pattern, and the diamond pattern of the symmetrical Guanyin hand at the two ends. Stitches are various, including cross stitch, plain stitch embroidery, single needle embroidery, etc. There are two kinds of colors: one is stable in color arrangement, the other is white, earth and yellow. It is harmonious and simple in color tone. The other color is more intense. It is often used in white, Zhu Hong, water red, pink green, grass green, and group green, lively and rich. When a woman gets married, she puts the scarf on a small bamboo rack on the top of her head and matches the colorful wedding dress to make her more gorgeous.
Yao nationality Pleated skirt
Costume crafts. Popular in Nandan, Guangxi. Usually it is made of self woven cloth and dyed with indigo, which is deep and shallow. It is folded and made up of needles and stitch at the end of the skirt. The skirt is lined with a skirt similar to the size of the outer skirt. There are wax patterns on the skirts, and the lines are divided into shades of indigo. The skirt is decorated with red embroidery patterns, mostly geometric flowers, about 10 centimeters wide. In front of the skirt, a skirt with a slightly longer skirt than a pleated skirt was used before the dress, about 20 centimeters wide, and a black border with a blue edge.
Weaving embroidery technology. Long history, as early as in the Han Dynasty, there are records of good five colors of Yao nationality. In black, dark blue or blue blue cloth, with red, white, yellow, green, orange and other colored silk thread, with wrong stitch embroidery and other techniques, embroider rich patterns. There are simple geometric patterns. There are also numerous images of dragons, butterflies, butterflies, butterflies, butterflies and water. It is bright and elegant, and its composition is clear and changeable. Often embroidered lace, flower belt for clothing.
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