On The Decline Of Linen Garments On The Lost Oriental "Yi Zu"

　　 Linen fabrics It was once the most fashionable dress of the Chinese nation. It can be fashions and flows, and the earliest China, which is still Ma Ma Ma, is now embarrassed. In January 5th, people rushed into the exhibition hall of the provincial exhibition hall to see the splendid costumes. Pure cotton dress is always fashionable, but pure linen clothes are hard to trace. After searching the whole field, only a few blended trousers were found, ranging from 80%, 45% or 20%, to 200 yuan.

The production of hemp in China is 600 thousand tons per year, especially the ramie production, known as "China grass", which accounts for 90% of the world's total production. Only 5% of China's Hemp products are consumed at home, 95% exported, and the output value is 70 billion yuan. The Chinese fashion, which has been neglected, is popular abroad.

Fallen Oriental ancestor

Ma is the oldest fashion in China. It is known as "the source of the national textile, the clothing of the ten thousand years". The origin of linen fabrics can be traced back to the Neolithic age more than ten thousand years ago. According to textual research, the use of hemp is 5000 years earlier than that of silk, 6000 years earlier than that of wool, and 9000 years earlier than cotton.

In the age of Yan and Huang, men worked in weaving and weaving. The Peng head mountain site in Lixian has been excavated for 6000 years ago. In the Warring States period, the fine ramie cloth was comparable to silk and was a rare gift from the aristocrat. But hemp clothing has always been the everyday clothing of the general public.

Two thousand years ago, the Western Han Dynasty, linen spinning technology reached maturity. A large quantity of linen boutique and rare treasures unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tombs became a milestone in the hemp spinning process. At that time, Hunan folk songs sang like this: "Junshan tea, Lang Mountain hemp, every year for JINGWAH". At this point, linen boutique and silk weaving boutique marching westward along the "Silk Road" into the Middle East and Europe.

But fashion is always changing. China has been a great sight for thousands of years. Ma culture In song and Yuan Dynasties. With the extensive planting and utilization of cotton, the cotton fiber has been put on the stage and gradually replaced the hemp fiber as the bulk material. Since modern times, the western style and the East have gradually changed, and the concept of life and clothing has been revolutionaries. The fashionable weathercock of bright, gorgeous and elegant fabrics has replaced traditional, rough and crumpled traditional floral materials, and Western clothing such as suits, jeans, casual wear and so on has occupied the wardrobe. The magnificent "linen dress" has faded from the rivers and lakes, and cotton spinning has become the mainstream of clothing.

Search the streets of Changsha to find out the reason why people are "numb with love". Ms. Zhao Lanping, who loves beauty, said, "I spent 700 yuan a year buying a pair of trousers with linen material, but I didn't like it and kept it under the bottom of the box. It is easy to wrinkle, not to shape, and ironing. People love and annoy, that is, the general mindset of linen dresses nowadays.

The products are no longer seen, or even considered as hemp rope. Sack And so on. There are two reasons, one is the technical problem, the domestic hemp spinning technology is lagging behind, it can only produce low, coarse, heavy primary fabrics, and itchy when dressed. The two is the price problem. Because of the cost of raw materials and the difficulty of processing, the hemp material is more expensive than cotton, 50 yuan to 100 yuan per meter, and the high-grade pure hemp products are more expensive.

China's hemp industry is controlled by others.

Speaking of Ma, many experts are fond of saying: linen fabrics are heat dissipation, disperse smell, disperse moisture, rough, neat, elegant, light, cool, breathable and antibacterial. It can blend with cotton wool and make up for defects and achieve the best fabric effect. Sackcloth is cool in summer and warm in winter. So wearing a linen cloth is like carrying a "natural air conditioner".

All kinds of magical properties of bast fiber do not call for the appreciation of hemp. But "Ma fashion" has been carried forward abroad, which is not only a habit of consumption, but also a cultural, traditional and other reasons. In the west, hemp products have always been regarded as the symbol of position and dignity, and are deeply loved by people of status and status. Egypt's pharaoh costumes, Japanese traditional costumes, Korean national costume, even Arabia scarves, Islamic gowns, Christian scriptures, holy robes and so on are exquisite linen fabrics. In particular, hemp as a natural fiber, its bacteriostatic and bactericidal green characteristics have been highly respected.

And we left our baby in the cold. The current situation of "inside and outside the cold" has made China, a big country in MAH, controlled by others and even exploited. In the international linen production and marketing chain, China produced large quantities of yarn and grey cloth, and exported to developed countries, with a small profit. But by weaving, dyeing and finishing, and weaving into high and thin fabrics, they become exquisite pieces of hemp products. A high-grade pure linen garment is sold for thousands of dollars, and a set of linen bedding is sold for several thousand euros.

China's loss is not only a tradition, but also a loss of technology from the present age. Woven cloth sold to others, people buy it after finishing, their hard nurtured seeds bloom and result in others. In this regard, Zhou Guotai, a member of the Academy of engineering, said: "Chinese people are working for others, selling their labor force to earn some hard-earned money. The reason is that technology is not in our hands.

Revitalization of Ma race begins

China is the country with the most resources of hemp, planting 20 million mu, and tens of millions of farmers in Hunan. More than 100 thousand households in the country. But hemp is used in spinning and weaving and making rope nets. According to Xiong Heping, director of the Institute of bast fiber research, Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the fiber content of bast fiber reaches 70%, and the conversion rate of fuel ethanol reaches 44%. As a strategic energy material, it has a wide range of new uses, and the development of bast fiber in the world is in the ascendant.

Because of this, the world has formed a trend of catching up with hemp fibers. The United States is the largest consumer of hemp products, but its planting of hemp resources is zero. Europe is the consumption area of traditional hemp products, which is not inferior to that of the United States. Asia is also a big market, especially in the next 20 years, the natural fiber consumption will exceed 40%. Africa and Australia are also competing for the market share of hemp fiber, and the United States and Eurasia are "four points in the world". This trend will continue to affect the whole of twenty-first Century.

For China, there is also urgent internal demand for the revitalization of the Ma industry in addition to the "external constraints": first, the cotton price has skyrocketed to 30000 yuan per ton. cotton Shortage, urgent need for fiber supplement; two, the export value of ramie products increased to 70 billion yuan last year, and at the policy demand level of stimulating domestic demand, it can stimulate domestic demand by 700 billion yuan.

"Race" has just begun. China has the most abundant hemp resources. But with rival game, Ma industry chain "short board" is also obvious. In the upper reaches, the level of breeding and production lags behind the development of the international market of hemp products. The quality of the products is low, and the coverage rate of high-quality varieties is low, and the fiber content is low. In the lower reaches, the technology of biological degumming is not fully promoted, and the primary processing, dyeing and finishing technologies and post processing technologies are still thin and weak, and the finished products are short.

China reveals "Ma fashion"

China is already in action. In 2009, the technical system of the national hemp industry was launched, covering 16 provinces (cities) and Ma producing areas. The goal is to build a technical support terminal from origin to dining table, from production to consumption, from research and development to market, and has formed new products, such as environmental protection, hemp film and hemp protein feed.

The "12th Five-Year plan" of the hemp industry has also been drawn up. It always runs through three principles: first, the strategy of "three places" for ramie hilly land, flax winter idle land and Kenaf shoal land, which is not contending with grain and cotton, forming the regional characteristics of the hemp; two, closely linking the environmental protection theme, using the marginal land such as hilly land, wasteland and saline alkali land to cultivate new varieties with high yield, high quality, high resistance and specialties, and creating an ecological Ma Yuan base; three, a key problem to overcome the degumming and processing of the hemp textile, and improve the spinnability and technological level of the hemp fiber, and create diversified hemp products. Some experts, especially textile and consumer experts, urged that we should strengthen the scientific popularization of ramie products, so that young people who are not familiar with Ma would like linen fabrics.

Hunan is the first province in China to produce hemp, and its ramie processing capacity ranks the highest in China. But after the end of last century, there are still many constraints. Now, the advantages are being overtaken by other provinces, such as once leading the domestic linen boutique "Yi Xin Tai", and the main industry has not done a big job. In fact, the leading institution of the national technological system of the hemp industry is the Institute of hemp research of the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences in Hunan, and some important scientific and technological achievements have also been published in Hunan. If the strategy is right, the revival of the Ma industry will bring about the return of Ma fashion.

In this regard, Xiong Ping He As a chief scientist in the field of hemp research in China, he predicted that the rise of Ma industry was just right. Just a year ago, Zhou Guotai, a member of the Chinese Academy of engineering, developed four pieces of hemp fabric: two pillowcases, a sheet and a quilt, and the price was 19860 yuan.

Ma fashion is ready to be released. Modern technology is used to remove its roughness and its modern economy is losing its value, so that more and more ramie products will enter the ordinary doorway.