Discussion On GB/T&Nbsp, 22700 - 2008 Test Standard For Washing And Finishing Garments

1. Industry background

In recent years, with the development of China's garment manufacturing industry and the continuous improvement of people's living standard, people have more and more emphasized the leisure function and comfortable function of clothing. The style, feel and appearance quality of traditional garments can no longer meet the needs of multi grade and multi-level personas. The appearance of washing and finishing clothing can make up for the lack of comfortable functions of some garments. In recent years, the washing and finishing types of garments have developed rapidly. The traditional jacket, shirts, trousers and cotton garments can be washed and washed, which greatly improves the added value of the products. But with the rapid development of the industry, the problem of product quality supervision is becoming more and more prominent. At present, there are no relevant technical standards specifically for washing and finishing garments in China. Other similar product standards can not fully reflect the quality characteristics of such garments, making the quality complaints of such products increasing day by day. In order to further improve the overall quality level of the products and guide the healthy and orderly development of the industry, it is of great significance to formulate standards for washing and finishing garments. Under such circumstances, some large garment enterprises in Fujian province (such as nine Mu Wang, Qipai, Jin Ba, etc.) jointly drafted the GB/T 22700 - 2008 standard for washing and finishing garments jointly with the Shanghai Clothing Research Institute and the Fujian Textile Inspection Institute.

2. Washing finishing Method

Washing finishing refers to the finishing process of fabrics or garments washed or washed by one or more combinations, such as stone washing, sand washing, enzyme washing, rinsing, snowflake washing, and ironing. After such treatment, the final garment products will produce partial discoloration, uneven color, natural or obsolete appearance, or some special functions, such as ironing and washing, which will make the garment durable and ironing. However, there will be some defects in the quality of garments or fabrics after washing.

1) the fabric has obvious fading and poor color fastness, especially wet rubbing fastness.

2) the physical properties of fabrics are reduced, especially the tear strength and other physical properties, because finishing will make the brittleness of the finished fabric increase.

3) the appearance quality has obvious characteristics, with many defects and obvious color difference.

Washing and finishing will cause the above defects, so the relevant standards can not be tested according to the requirements of ordinary woven garment standards, but should be lower than other standards to a certain extent, which is the original intention of formulating this standard.

3, standard content analysis

Three point one Scope of application

This standard was formally implemented in August 1, 2009. It is suitable for garments produced by washing and finishing with textile woven fabrics as the main raw materials. Not applicable to jeans.

3.2 appearance quality

Because of the inherent appearance defects of water washing and finishing, the appearance requirements of washing and finishing garments in this standard are much lower than those of other woven garments. It mainly includes the following aspects:

1) batch determination is the same as other garments, but it adopts a lower judgement requirement in judging single appearance. In the case of qualified products, GB/T 2660 - 2008 "shirts" allow light defects of less than 8 or more than 1 defects, light defects less than 4, FZ/T 81006 - 2007. Jeans wear allows for light defects of less than 8 or heavier defects = 1, light defects less than 6, and the requirements of this standard are light defects less than 8 or heavy defects less than 8, light defects less than or heavy defects less than, and light defects less than 0.

2) because of the chromatic aberration of the washed garment itself, the standard does not make corresponding provision for color difference, while other woven garments, such as FZ/T 81007 - 2003, "single or clipped garments", require no less than 4 grade for the color difference of the surface parts.

3) the requirements for appearance defects are relatively loose. Only the common defects such as line defects, dispersive defects, destructive defects and spot stains are listed, and the destructive defects of special wear and local destructive washing products are not assessed.

3.3 physical and chemical properties

The physical and chemical properties of this standard include fiber content, basic safety performance (formaldehyde, pH value, decomposable aromatic amine dye, odor), color fastness (soaping, friction, light, sweat, water immersion and dye migration performance), physical properties (size change rate of washing, appearance of washing, wear resistance, breaking strength, tear strength, peel strength of overlapping adhesive lining, strength of trousers after crotch joint, slippage degree), etc. four major 19 items.

3.3.1 fiber content

The allowable deviation of fiber content of raw materials is specified in accordance with FZ/T 01053.

3.3.2 security performance

The contents of safety performance include formaldehyde content, pH value, decomposable aromatic amine dye and odor four items, and its technical indicators are similar to those of products of direct contact skin B class GB 18401 - 2003 and C non direct contact skin products.

Color fastness of 3.3.3

Color fastness includes six requirements: soaping, friction, light, sweat, water soaking and dye migration. Among them, the dye migration performance is the first time specified in the product standard. According to the appendix C of this standard, the main reaction is that the transfer of dark colored parts to the lighter part will occur in the fabric made of different color parts. This is also one of the possible defects caused by the washing process. In terms of the top quality and first class products, the wet rubbing fastness requirements are 3~4 and 3, respectively. The test method is GB/T 3920, which is lower than the standard of ordinary woven garments (such as FZ/T 81007 – 2003 "single and clipped garments"), while the qualified products do not check the wet rubbing fastness. For the color fastness to soaping, there are some peculiarities in this standard: silk and nylon fabrics are tested according to GB/T3921 - 2008 method A (1). Other fabrics are not specified in the standard according to C (3). Color fastness to perspiration: this standard only tests products that are directly exposed to skin. Grade I is required to be 3~4 grade, and products that are not directly exposed to skin are stipulated in accordance with GB 18401.

It can be seen that this standard has fully taken into consideration the characteristics of washing and finishing garments in terms of color fastness. On the one hand, because of the washability of dyestuffs in washable finishing garments, the dye migration performance has been increased. On the other hand, it has reduced the color fastness to some extent, especially the assessment requirements of wet rubbing fastness.

3.3.4 physical properties

The physical performance of this standard is one of the most widely used standards of clothing standards, almost including all the mechanical properties of woven garments. It includes the following items: size change rate of washing, appearance after washing, wear resistance, breaking strength, tear strength, peel strength of overlapping adhesive lining, strength of joints and slippage of trousers. The size change rate of water washing is stipulated in accordance with GB/T 21294, and the test method is 5A. This is relatively rare in woven garments. Most of the testing methods for woven garments are chosen according to the washing instructions in reference to GB/T 8629.

The appearance after washing includes the appearance smoothness and the appearance of the joints after washing. The first grade requirement is equal to or equal to 3~4 grade, and the requirement for qualified products can be lower than half. Wear resistance is tested according to the GB/T 21196.2 method, requiring continuous grinding of 10000 turns. The requirements for breaking strength, tear strength, peeling strength of the adhesive lining, the strength of the joint of the crotch and the degree of slippage are fully implemented in accordance with GB/T 21295 regulations.

4, conclusion

In today's multi grade and personalized demand, washing and finishing garments are becoming more and more popular among consumers. However, there are inherent defects in the appearance and color fastness of washed and washed garments, resulting in quality disputes. Therefore, the introduction of GB/T 22700 - 2008 "washing and finishing garments" testing standard provides a technical basis for the production, sale and quality supervision of washing and finishing garments to a certain extent.

However, since the implementation of this standard for a year, it has not been recognized by some garment manufacturers, shopping malls and consumers. Therefore, strengthening the publicity of this standard is of great significance to the control of the quality of production enterprises and shopping malls and the correct guidance of consumption.