Design Of Side Opening High Waist Rubber Band Shoes

The high waist rubber band shoes were called "general school boots" earlier in foreign countries. When the rubber band materials were just developed, they were very precious. They were used on officers' shoes, so they were called general school boots. The side opening high waist rubber band shoes are easy to wear and take off, commonly known as "one kick", and are widely used in men's shoes and women's shoes, with many styles changing.

As shown in Figure 5-1-12, the upper is composed of two parts of the front and rear upper, which are connected by rubber bands.

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When designing side opening rubber bound shoes, the method of finding the minimum size angle of the rubber band was proposed, because the extensibility of the rubber band was limited by weaving. When designing high waist shoes, the width of rubber band must also be considered.

When wearing shoes, the key to whether it can be worn into the shoe cavity is the size of the foot pocket. If the design length of the shoe opening can meet the requirements of the foot pocket, there will be no difficulty in wearing shoes. The length of the foot pocket accounts for 131% of the foot plantar circumference, and the length of the foot pocket for men of No. 250 is 318 3mm, width 159 2mm, approximately 160mm.

If the toe opening length of high waisted shoes is 120mm, there is a gap of 40mm from the foot pocket requirements. In the structural design drawing, the length difference of 40mm is the basis for rubber band value.

Do you want to consider 70% extensibility of rubber band? Because the actual design position of the rubber band is lower than the toe opening, it can completely compensate for the extension loss. Therefore, the design width of the rubber band is the size of the foot pocket and the design width of the shoe opening.

The use of rubber band not only has the function of opening and closing, but also has the function of decoration. The widening will not affect the wearing.
The back upper height is 90~llOmm, and the toe opening length is 120~125mm.

2. Structural design drawing
As shown in Figure 5-1-13, the operation steps of drawing the structure diagram are as follows:

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(1) To determine the height and length of the back wall, determine the orientation of the half panel on the rectangular coordinates, mark the natural stilts, and connect four basic control lines.
Measure the back upper height llOmm upward from the point B 'of the last heel height, and make the vertical line of the longitudinal axis. Determine the y point at the rear end of the last opening ≥ 5mm, design the back arc curve, and connect it with the Y point. Determine the T 'point T' on the T line, and then measure the shoe opening length from the T 'point 120mm, and then rise to the T "point. The T' length is the basic length of the shoe opening.

(2) Determine the position of the rubber band, and connect point F at the midpoint of the control line TT "of the shoe top as the center line of the rubber band. Drop 5~8mm from the toe line and connect T "point and T 'point as the auxiliary line. Cut the length of rubber band on the auxiliary line: ab=160-120=40(mm)。 It is evenly divided before and after the middle line of the rubber band.

The lower end of the rubber band is taken at half the height of the back upper, parallel to the bottom opening line. Through point a and point b, the width line is led downward respectively. Considering the reason of taking the seesaw, line a inclines slightly forward, and the width of line b is balanced with that of line a. Change the lower leg of the rubber band to an arc angle.

Through the "T" point, connect the middle line of the back with a curve, and locate the sharp point of the curve and the straight line at point c. Then connect the circular arc curve of the tongue in a straight line, and then make a back arc through the "T" point, and connect the back upper in a straight line.

(3) The design of the front upper requires the transformation of the front upper. Point O 'of the seesaw center is set at the center of the arc turning in front of the rubber band, and the seesaw angle is converted. 1/3 length difference shall be made up for the front upper length.

The conversion of stilts can only solve the problem of last trapping at the lower part of the front upper, but not at the tongue. The conversion saw can also be taken again to solve the problem of tongue last. However, since the rubber band is not as hard as the front upper, it will be extruded and deformed after the shoe is finished, so the usual method is to make the process saw at the inner part of the tongue. That is, across the boundary point c between the tongue curve and the straight line, it is inclined to a breaking line, and controlled below the rubber band. When cutting the sample plate, one corner shall be added at the side of the inner breast. Stubble shall be left at the lower end of the corner to be inset with the inner sleeve, and the seam amount shall be left at the side of the middle seam to be inset with the outer sleeve. This is a classic process, which is often used in the design of various footwear, as shown in Figure 5-1-14.

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Although this method of designing rubber band high waist shoes with craft stilts is classic, some people do not like the broken upper in the middle. Therefore, the transformation design is carried out by means of shifting the seesaw, dividing the front upper, and making the front upper highly misaligned.

As shown in Fig. 5-15, the front upper of the shoe is divided into two parts, and the swing on the tongue is transferred to the front part. The method of removing the stilts of this shoe is called "double conversion method of removing the stilts", which will be introduced in the next section. The design method of the rubber band remains unchanged, and the shape of the lower end of the rubber band is not affected by the removal of the seesaw.

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As shown in Figure 5-1-16, a decorative strip component is divided at the upper end of the tongue. At the same time, the seesaw of the tongue is also divided. The central line is directly taken on the decorative strip, which solves the problem of no process seesaw. The design method of the rubber band remains unchanged. The shape of the rubber band should be determined according to the outline of the tongue.

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As shown in Figure 5-1-17, when the height of the back upper is reduced, the height of the front upper is also reduced, so that the tongue is completely within the control range of the last surface, so that the process stilt is not required. The design method of the rubber band remains unchanged. The shape of the rubber band should be determined according to the outline of the tongue.

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Through the design of the above shoes, you can basically understand the design of high waist shoes. The right angle coordinate is used to control the orientation of the half panel, and the coordinate axis is used to control the height and length of the back upper. Then, the basic structure design is carried out according to the structure of different styles.

The lining of boots is generally a sleeve assembly lining. The design line of the shoe lining is taken within the upper part line, leaving a position for the thickness of the shoe lining. The bottom opening also retracts 6~7mm. At the back arc position, the method of 2mm, 3mm and 5mm retraction is also adopted.