The Design Of Double Ridge Shoes, Triple Ridge Shoes And Wrapped Ridge Shoes

When designing two in one shoe, three in one shoe, and bag in one shoe, we should first design the enclosure shoes, and then design them for different shoe ridges, as shown in Figure 2-4-7.

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The figure lists three types of sewing shoes. Their basic structures are the same, but the difference lies in the shoes. The three outer ear shoes have a common feature, that is, the tongue and the ear are connected to form a closed "pocket", similar to the pouch of kangaroos, commonly known as kangaroo shoes. Color picture K-9 is a kangaroo shoe, and the material wrapping the ear is the edge of the tongue part.

Figure (a) shows the women's shoes with the outer ears of the two ridges. The edge of the shoe cover and the fence are sewn together relatively. The height of the ridge is the edge distance when sewing. Generally, ordinary sewing machines are used for sewing.

Figure (b) shows the women's shoes with the outer ears of the three ridges. The shoe covers should be left with a margin, and then be sewn after wrapping the fence. The height of the shoe ridge is slightly higher than the sewing margin. It can be sewed with ordinary sewing machine or mark machine.

Figure (c) shows the women's shoes with outer ears wrapped with wrapped ridges. Wrap the perimeter strip and the edge of the shoe cover with wrapped ridges and then sew them together. The height of the shoe ridge is slightly higher than the sewing margin. It can be sewed with ordinary sewing machine or mark machine.
The structural design drawings of these three shoes are the same, but the difference lies in the treatment of the shoe ridge, as shown in Figure 2-4-8.

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Except for the tongue, the basic structure design is the same as that of the ear type shoes.
How to design the tongue and ear of kangaroo shoes?

Point 01 and point 02 in the figure are respectively the front cusp of the inner and outer part of the shoe ear, and the front point of the tongue is point O '. The 010 'line on the side of the outer sleeve is the symmetrical center line. Copy the contour line of the shoe ear on the other side of the symmetrical center line to get the big tongue of the kangaroo shoe.

Determine the shoe eyelet position, and also make the difference between inside and outside.

Finally, the contour line of the back section of the tongue is corrected to organically connect the ear and tongue. As shown by the dotted line in the figure.

When sewing, the ear part on the tongue turns over and overlaps with the ear of the back upper to sew up the edge of the tongue.

1. Double ridge kangaroo shoes
The ridge of the kangaroo shoes with two ridges is to directly sew the shoe cover and the shoe ear, leaving a margin of 2-3 mm, which can be sewn with an ordinary sewing machine.
See Fig. 2-4-9 for the sample of the front upper of the double ridge. The sewing amount is reserved at the edge of the fence and the shoe cover. Generally, the sewing amount is about 3mm for men's shoes and 2mm for women's shoes. Suture along the 2~3mm margin, and the height of the shoe ridge is 2~3mm.
During processing, attention should be paid to the fact that due to the factors of "short shoe covers and long girth", stitching should be performed after inlaying.

2. Three Ridge Kangaroo Shoes
The ridge of the three ridge kangaroo shoes is to wrap the edge of the shoe cover around the fence and then sew it up, leaving a margin of 2-3 mm.
When sewing ridges with an ordinary sewing machine, first inlay the shoe cover and the back of the fence according to the regular points, then turn the edge of the shoe cover over to wrap the fence, and finally sew.
When using the marking machine to sew the ridge, first turn a thread to fix the shoe cover and the fence according to the regular points, and then put the ridge into the crimping cylinder of the Remark machine for sewing.
See Fig. 2-4-10 for the front upper sample of the triple ridge. The sewing amount shall be 2~3mm on the girth, and the hemming amount shall be reserved on the shoe cover. The amount of hemming includes the height of two shoe ridges, the thickness of the fence, the thickness of the shoe cover itself, and the suture margin, which is between 8 and 10 mm. The long dotted line in the shoe cover is the standard point for processing.

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3. Ridge wrapped kangaroo shoes
The front upper sample of the wrapped ridge kangaroo shoes is the same as that of the double ridge kangaroo shoes
The bundling strip shall be prepared outside. As the shoe ridge has a certain degree of curvature, the leather strip of the used ridge seam should be designed as a curved arc according to the outer sleeve of the shoe cover.
Due to the additional processing amount required for the bundling strip, about 5mm is added to the inside and outside of the bundling strip, which will reduce the inside curvature and increase the outside curvature. When handling the bundling strip, take the shoe cover line as the center position, and cut the cut at the turning part without breaking. Make 3~4 cuts for small bends and 2~3 cuts for large bends, and then stretch about 1mm appropriately to increase the length of the inner bend so as to make the curvature of the bundling strip slow, as shown in Figure 2-4-11. The contour of the bundling strip is shown as the dotted line in the figure.

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When natural leather is used as the bundling strip, horizontal blanking is adopted; When artificial leather is used, the material shall be laid down at an angle.

The front upper structure of the above three shoes is special, so only the front upper parts are listed. Other parts have the same requirements as the basic structure, and will not be repeated.

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