Development Status Of China'S Garment Industry
Due to the opening of the market and the increase in the quantity of textile exports, the existing standards can no longer meet the requirements of product quality and market changes.
Most joint ventures, wholly foreign-owned enterprises and enterprises with export tasks adopt the agreement standard to check and accept products according to the agreement between the supplier and the buyer.
Enterprises accustomed to relying on national standards or industry standards claim that there is no standard that restricts the product development of enterprises.
Throughout the domestic textile market, especially in the finished goods and clothing market, many famous brand products that have been recognized by consumers have been produced. Their production enterprises all carry out strict technical standards and inspection systems, and none of them adopt the internal control standards that are superior to national standards and industry standards.
Famous brand products are based on excellent product quality and supported by high standards. These consensus and practice have played a positive role in promoting technological progress and product quality in textile industry.
The status quo of China's textile standards
In line with the development of the textile industry, China's textile standardization has been constantly improved and improved, and great achievements have been made. Textile standard chemical industry has made due contributions to the development of the country's economic construction and textile industry.
Manifested in:
1, from textile materials to finished products and clothing standards have formed the system and scale.
By the end of 2002, there were 885 textile and clothing standards (excluding fiber raw materials standards), including 383 national standards and 502 textile industry standards, forming a textile standard system with product standards as the main body and matching basic standards, including four categories of terms, symbol standard, test method standard, material standard and product standard, involving fiber, yarn, filament, fabric, textile products and garments, and basically met the production and trade needs of textiles and garments from quantity and coverage.
2. The standard of textile standard is listed as the first place, and the basic standard is in line with international standards.
According to the statistics of the relevant departments of the state, the international standard of the standard rate is about 44%, while the textile standard is 80%.
There are about more than 280 standards for textiles and clothing in ISO.
The textile industry has studied these international standards and has been applied to different extent or included in the annual adoption plan.
In addition to adopting international standards, we have adopted different advanced countries' standards in different degrees, such as American Standard, British standard, German standard and Japanese standard.
In particular, the basic and general terminology standards and methods standards have basically adopted international standards and advanced foreign standards, so that the national standards formulated have reached international standards or equivalent to international standards.
3, all kinds of standards have played a huge role.
The basic standards in line with international standards play an important role in unifying the technical terms of textile industry, testing means for unifying textile materials and products, and standardizing the performance indicators of products.
In particular, the test data based on these testing methods are not only comparable nationwide, but also recognized by foreign customers, and played an important role in textile trade.
The formulation of a large number of textile product standards, adapted to the development and needs of products, solved the problem of non standard production, and provided technical basis for a large number of enterprises to enter the market.
4, the standardization concept of enterprises plays a key role in improving product quality.
Since the implementation of the "standardization law" in 1989, the standardization work of enterprises has been strengthened step by step, and enthusiasm for participation in standardization has been increasing.
However, with the development of market economy in recent years, the existing standard system and standard content gradually reveal its disadvantages.
1. Under the planned economy system, our textile product standards are production oriented. The standard setting is the main starting point for guiding production. The technical requirements are closely related to the production process, and the index is too thin and dead, especially the standard revision speed is lagging behind the speed of product development.
Some enterprises believe that the standard level is too low, while some enterprises think that the standard index is too high, forming different requirements and evaluation of standards.
2, as the finished products of textile products become the trend, the problem of consumers' demand for clothing and home decoration, the quality of raw materials and the quality of finished products are becoming increasingly prominent.
For example, the color fastness of fabric standard is poor, the size change rate of washing is large, and there is no practical performance evaluation index. Because of the disputes caused by standard non convergence, it is difficult for consumers to solve their complaints.
3, the guiding principle of the past bid is to combine China's national conditions and take into account the existing equipment and technological conditions in China, so that most of the standards adopted in China are "non equivalent" or "reference".
In addition to the high degree of integration of basic standards, although there are many product standards in the foreword, it is stated that international or foreign advanced standards are adopted, but only a few indicators or even individual indicators are consistent with foreign standards, or the test methods adopted are international standards. Therefore, the standards and standards of most product standards are not really in line with foreign countries.
4, due to the opening of the market and the increase in the quantity of textile exports, the existing standards can no longer meet the requirements of product quality and market changes.
Most joint ventures, wholly foreign-owned enterprises and enterprises with export tasks adopt the agreement standard to check and accept products according to the agreement between the supplier and the buyer.
Enterprises accustomed to relying on national standards or industry standards claim that there is no standard that restricts the product development of enterprises.
Gap with advanced standards abroad
First of all, the standard system is different.
ISO or foreign textile standards at the national level, the main content is the basic class standards, focusing on unified terminology, unified test methods, unified assessment tools, so that all data provided by the parties are comparable and versatile.
The standard system is based on the basic standard, plus the related product standards matched with the end use products.
In the product standard, only the performance index and the standard of the test method quoted are specified.
For a large number of products, there is no national standard in foreign countries. It mainly stipulates the specifications, performance indicators, inspection rules, packaging and other contents of the products in accordance with the purpose of the product or the price paid by the buyer.
Many of the existing textile product standards in China are products of the planned economy system. The standard system is mainly based on product standards, which are divided into raw materials or processes. At present, it is mainly divided into cotton textile printing and dyeing, woolen textiles, hemp textiles, silk products, knitwear, thread belts, chemical fibers and colored woven fabrics.
In recent years, standards have been set for use, but the proportion is very small.
In addition to the performance indicators, the standard also includes the contents of the inspection rules, such as factory inspection, type inspection and reinspection, and has formed the standard chain of all kinds of raw materials, "yarn - natural cloth - printing and dyeing cloth".
Secondly, the functions of standards are different.
Abroad, the open standard at the national level is used as the technical basis for delivery and acceptance. It is formulated from the perspective and need of guiding users to purchase products, which is called trade standard.
Enterprise standard is the technical basis for organizing production.
The technical content of this trade standard is relatively concise, relatively general and flexible.
On the contrary, the function of most of our product standards is to organize production according to the needs of guiding enterprises' production, which is called production standard.
In order to facilitate the production of enterprises, standards in terms of technical content are generally more specific, more detailed and relatively dead.
With the development of market economy, new varieties of textile products are constantly emerging, which determines that concise and flexible trade standards can better meet the needs of the market.
The scope of production standards in China is relatively narrow, and the number of products covered is relatively small, resulting in a large number of standards, but still can not keep pace with the development of products.
Third, there is a gap in standard level.
Due to the different functions of the standard, the standard technical content, such as the setting of the assessment items, has a certain gap in the level of performance indicators.
According to the fabric standards established by end use abroad, the assessment items are closer to the actual wear conditions, such as abrasion resistance, yarn slippage resistance, pilling, light fastness and so on.
China's fabric standards still lack such assessment indicators as joint slippage, pilling, dry cleaning size changes, light fastness and so on, which can not meet the requirements of people's comfort and aesthetics.
The assessment of clothing mainly focuses on the appearance quality of clothing specifications, color difference, sewing and defects. When judging the grade of products, it ignores the main elements of clothing, fabric and lining.
According to the standard laid down by the production standard, China can not apply trade relations to the producers and purchasers. For example, different color fastness grades are determined according to dyestuff types and processes.
While the quality standards of foreign standards are strictly controlled, color fastness is generally higher than domestic indicators 1 to 1.5, especially the color fastness of rubbing.
Turning over product standards, a large number of standard texts contain "superior products equivalent to international advanced level, first-class goods equivalent to international general level" and so on. In fact, only a single index level reaches the international level, but the comprehensive performance is not up to the standard. There are also individual standards for marking, and their contents are far from foreign standards.
Fourth, foreign standards have formed technical barriers.
With the gradual reduction of trade barriers, all countries are making use of the relevant provisions of TBT to make technical barriers.
The effective way to create technical barriers is regulations and standards.
The directive issued by the European Parliament and the European Commission in July 19, 2002 was 2002 / 61 / EC - the nineteenth revision order of the European Commission on Directive 76 / 769 / EEC on the sale and use of certain hazardous substances and preparations (azo dyes), together with the decision made by the European Commission in May 15, 2002 to modify and issue the authorization of the use of Ec o-label (2002 / 371 / EC) for the textile products. The EU has made two major steps in building a complete "green barrier" for the market access of textiles and consumer goods.
China, as the world's largest textile producer and exporter, may have an obvious impact.
For many reasons, there are many defective products and substandard products in imported textiles.
However, China's technical regulations and mandatory standards are lacking, and the quality of imported products can not be effectively monitored.
The basic technical requirements for textile safety, which was set up in 2000, has not been approved so far, and it can not resist foreign bad products.
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