Knowledge Roadmap For Sustainable Development Of Textile And Clothing Industry: Scientific Metrological Analysis

Knowledge Roadmap for Sustainable Development of Textile and Clothing Industry: Scientific Metrological Analysis

Abstract: The practice of the textile and clothing industry (TAI) has led to numerous environmental and social problems, which has prompted people to promote the sustainable development of the textile and clothing industry (SDTAI) Extensive research has been carried out. This paper makes a comprehensive and quantitative analysis of the current situation in the field of SDTAI using scientometrics. From 1987 to 2019, Web of Science The core collection database (SCI and SSCI) contains 863 journal articles related to SDTAI. Our analysis results are as follows: (1) 60 Key research keywords; (2) Four research hotspots were identified; (3) The five themes constitute the main areas of knowledge; (4) Based on the knowledge base, research hotspots and knowledge fields, the knowledge structure consists of nine disciplines and five systems.

Introduction: The practice of the textile and clothing industry (TAI) has led to many environmental and social problems, such as high emissions, high water consumption, high energy consumption and heavy pollution. In the European Union (EU), the current environmental impact of 2-10% is TAI consumption results (Liu et al., 2020; Manda et al., 2015). In China, the textile industry accounted for 2.6%(NBSb，2021); In addition, 1.96 million tons of wastewater is discharged into the sewage treatment plant, accounting for 10.5% of the total industrial wastewater consumption (Liu et al., 2020) As the second largest industrial pollution source after the oil industry, the clothing industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions (Muthukumarana et al., 2018 Year). In addition, ineffective treatment of textiles has become an increasingly serious problem in sustainable development (Xu et al, 2019)。 A large amount of textile waste entering the landfill every year has caused serious pollution and chemical hazards. In 2016, the annual estimates of textile landfills in the United States, China and the EU were 29.3, 14.5 and 9.6 kg (Bukhari et al., 2018). Therefore, in order to mitigate the adverse impact on the environment and society, TAI must incorporate the principle of sustainability.

In recent decades, the sustainable development of textile and clothing industry (SDTAI) has paid extensive attention to the theory and industrial model. Scholars from different disciplines have conducted a lot of research on SDTAI, involving many research fields, such as sustainable consumption behavior (Hong & Kang, 2019 ; Rausch&Kopplin, 2021), sustainable production (Alkaya&Demirer, 2014 ; Ozturk et al., 2015), moral clothing (Carey&Cervellon, 2014; Choi et al., 2012 ), sustainable design (Fletcher, 2014; Ninimaki&Hassi, 2011) and sustainable business model (Becker Leifhold &Iran, 2018); Hirscher et al., 2018 Year). Since there are thousands of researches in this field, it is difficult to understand the research focus and current situation; In addition, it is easy to ignore the research risks and practice improvement of key issues and key areas.

Literature review is an expedient way to deeply understand specific research fields (He et al., 2017). Several studies reviewed the literature on SDTAI. For example, Luo et al. ( 2021) Reviewed environmental sustainability assessment methods and discussed their limitations in TAI; Moody et al. ( 2020 ) Reviewed the research on sustainable fashion management, and identified social impacts and opportunities for further research; Islam, etc. (2021) For TAI Environmental sustainability practices in various manufacturing processes have been reviewed and a conceptual framework has been developed to provide guidance for sustainable practices; Thorisdottir and Johannsdottir (2020) Reviewed the documents issued from 2003 to 2019, focusing on the impact of corporate social responsibility on the sustainable development of the fashion industry; In addition, Jia et al. (2020) analyzed TAI The driving factors, obstacles, practices and indicators of circular economy in China, and a conceptual model is proposed; K ? ksal et al. (2017) reviewed the social issues related to sustainable supply chain management in TAI; And Tey wait forsomeone. (2018) reviewed the main driving factors that affect consumers' willingness to pay more when purchasing sustainable clothing products. Although these studies are important to SDTAI They have made significant contributions, but they all focus on specific aspects without providing systematic and broad perspectives. In addition, the existing comments are mainly reviewed manually, which is prone to deviation in terms of the limitations of subjective interpretation, the number of articles reviewed and the productivity (Hammersley, 2001; Markoulli Etc., 2017).

In view of the above shortcomings, this study uses scientific metrological analysis, a quantitative method aimed at reducing the deviation caused by manual review, to comprehensively and objectively summarize the existing literature. A comprehensive and quantitative review of relevant research will help researchers and industry stakeholders to understand the current research situation and consider the future direction. Therefore, this study uses scientific metrological methods to SDTAI A comprehensive review of relevant research in this field was carried out. The purpose is to identify knowledge base (such as unstructured key research topics), knowledge hotspot (such as unstructured key research topics) and knowledge domain (such as structured key research topics) analysis technology respectively through keyword co-occurrence network, literature co citation network and clustering.

Methods: In this study, the research related to SDTAI was comprehensively reviewed with the scientific metrology method. Scientometrics refers to the visualization or mapping of knowledge fields (Pollack& Adler, 2015), which is a technology to provide quantitative research for literature review. The evolution process and structural relationship can be revealed in the form of large-scale academic data sets through scientific metrological analysis in specific fields (Chen et al., 2009 )。 In addition, compared with traditional methods, it is possible to study a broader and more diverse set of related topics (Li et al., 2017 Year). It can also improve the objectivity and reliability of research results (Zhao et al., 2020) Researchers in many fields use scientific metrological methods to draw and examine knowledge maps and research topics (Hood &Wilson, 2001; Zhao, 2017). The research method includes three stages: tool selection, data collection and data analysis.

Tool selection: mainstream scientific metrology analysis software tools mainly include VOSViewer, Ucinet, BibExcel, SCIMAT, CiteSpace, etc. (Cobo et al al., 2011 )。 Among them, CiteSpace, developed by Chen Chaomei of Drexel University, is characterized by a more comprehensive comprehensive analysis method, mainly involving co-occurrence analysis, evolutionary trend detection, cluster detection, visual analysis and other functions. CiteSpace It is widely used in management, medicine, environmental science, computer science, information science, social science and other fields (Yang&Meng, 2019). Therefore, CiteSpace (5.6. R1) was used in this study.

Data collection: For this study, Clarifate Analytics selected Web of Science core collection database Social Science Citation Index (SSCI) And SCIE to obtain bibliographic data, because they contain the core of many fields and influential journal article fields (Pouris&Pouris, 2011) Each bibliographic record contains a list of authors, titles, abstracts, keywords, and references. Each reference includes source type, volume number, first author name, year of publication, and DOI references. Use Web of Science The advanced search function of, using two keywords to retrieve bibliographic data, namely ("texture" or "apparent" or "fashion" or "garment" or "clothing") and ("sustainability" or "sustainable" development "). In addition, journal articles written in English are selected as the literature type. Selected Journal articles published from 1987 to 2019. According to the above search criteria, 863 original research papers were retrieved.

Data analysis: Specifically, this study mainly uses keyword co-occurrence analysis, literature co citation analysis, cluster analysis and other methods, and uses CiteSpace software tools for scientific quantitative analysis. First, through keyword co-occurrence analysis, we can get the keywords (Luo) that appear in at least two different documents in the same period et al., 2019)。 Use high-frequency keywords to identify key research priorities or directions at a specific time. The keyword extraction method used in this paper is the original keyword of the literature. These high-frequency keywords are considered as the knowledge base of a certain research field. Secondly, the co citation analysis (Small, 1973) access to highly cited literature in a field) Compared with those less cited, the literature that has been jointly cited for many times in a specific field has greater potential influence and reports more similar or related concepts (Chen Et al., 2010). Knowledge hotspots were obtained through literature co citation analysis. Third, cluster analysis uses CiteSpace Detect clustering. The literature themes in the same cluster are more similar than those in other clusters. Therefore, the knowledge field is obtained through clustering analysis. Compared with other scientific measurement methods, it may detect important details hidden in a large amount of information and pursue research frontiers (Li et al., 2017)。

Results: Keyword co-occurrence analysis (knowledge base)

Keywords represent the core content of the article. Therefore, keyword analysis can be used to identify key research topics related to the scientific field (Zhu& Hua，2017)。 The keyword co-occurrence network consists of 170 nodes and 962 links from the database, as shown in the figure 1. Each node represents a keyword whose size is proportional to the co occurrence frequency. Because keywords are closely related to the core of literature, analyzing similar keywords is helpful to determine SDTAI The core of the study. The terms are grouped below. For example, sustainability, sustainable development, green and sustainable fashion can be classified into one category. As listed in Table 1, 2081 words co occur in the first 60 words, accounting for 92%。

As shown in Table 1, the following keywords are most commonly used: sustainability/sustainability development/green/sustainable Fashion (414 times)

consumption/behavior/consumer/attitude/perception/knowledge/intention/decision making/willingness to pay/consumer behavior/planned behavior /Motivation (245 times), textile/fashion/clothing/textile industry/clothing/fashion industry/clothing industry (188 times), management/supply chain/supply chain management (154 times), impact/environmental management/environmental sustainability/climate change/environment/energy (130 times) Times), and corporate social responsibility/social responsibility/csr/responsibility (92 Times). Therefore, we can conclude that sustainable supply chain management, sustainable consumer behavior and corporate social responsibility are the basic components of SDTAI. 1 The following four groups are mainly involved.

Performance and model are also important research areas, with frequency of 87 and 61 respectively. To enable enterprises to meet both sustainability and economic performance, TAI The concept of sustainable business model (Thorisdottir&Johannsdottir, 2019 Year). Business model is the mechanism structure for enterprises to create, deliver and obtain value. (Tees, 2010). Integrating Sustainability into Textile Apparel (TA) Business models are essential to identify obstacles and interferences to achieving economic, environmental or social sustainable development goals (Manninen et al., 2018) Some studies focus on introducing sustainability into TAI Multiple approaches to business models, such as gaining competitive advantage, innovation, and model structure. (Sorescu et al., 2011; Westlund, 2013). Several studies focused on how to assess and report TA Sustainability of business model (Park&Kim, 2016).

Life cycle assessment (LCA) is a key topic with a total frequency of 45. LCA is an environmental management and decision support tool for the whole life cycle of TA products, including raw material production and acquisition, design, manufacturing, transportation, distribution, utilization and disposal (Yasin Et al., 2016). LCA provides scientific basis for industry stakeholders to assess and manage environmental sustainability and determine improvement strategies. Therefore, LCA has been widely adopted by researchers of TAI (Kazan et al., 2020 ; van der Velden et al., 2014 ; Yacout et al., 2016 )). Most previous studies focused on the environmental sustainability assessment of textiles and clothing products [for example, medical textiles (Ponder, 2009), bed sheets (De Saxe et al, 2012), cotton T-shirts (Kazan et al., 2020; Zhang et al., 2015), recycled cotton (Esteve Turrillas and de la Guardia, 2017), antibacterial T-shirts (Manda et al., 2015), carpets (Sim and Prabhu, 2018) and diapers (Hoffmann Et al, 2020), among others] and various types of natural and chemical fibers (Astudillo et al., 2014; Kalliala & Nousiainen, 1999 ; Liu et al., 2021; Muthu et al., 2012; Qian et al., 2021; van der Velden et al., 2014; Yacout et al., 2016; Yang et al., 2020).

Textile products and raw materials are also important research fields, with the frequency of 37 and 37 respectively. In view of the major environmental and resource challenges related to textile production, such as waste gas and wastewater emissions, energy consumption, toxic chemicals and solid wastes, most studies address environmental sustainability issues at all levels, such as raw material production, fiber production, production of products, and the manufacturing and product disposal stages of the textile life cycle (Kazan Et al., 2020; Roos et al., 2018; Yasin et al., 2018; Zhang et al., 2018) Many studies have focused on the impact of raw material production on the environment, such as cotton, organic cotton, acrylic fiber, wool, hemp, nylon, viscose, silk and polyester (Astudillo et al., 2014; Kalliala And Nousiainen, 1999; Muthu et al., 2012; Yacout et al., 2016; Yang et al., 2020).

Design (sustainable design) is another key theme in TAI, with a frequency of 35. Many adverse environmental and social impacts of TA products are the result of production, consumption and disposal. In many aspects, design activities The production, consumption and disposal of TA products have important impacts, such as material selection, energy/water use, process and manufacturing, and consumers' purchase, use and disposal of clothing (Kozlowski et al., 2018 Year). In order to achieve SDTAI, designers play an irreplaceable role (Kozlowski et al., 2019; Ninimaki and Hassi, 2011) In this context, scholars and enterprises are increasingly considering integrating the concept of sustainability into the TA design process. At present, some researches have developed several sustainable fashion design tools for designers, such as considerate design (Black et al Al., 2012), design considering its replacement (Aakko&Koskennurmi Sivonen, 2013) and clothing design from cradle to cradle (Gam Et al., 2009). In addition, in order to achieve sustainability, some strategies have been proposed for designers, such as slow fashion（ ? Tefko&Steffek, 2018), longevity design (Connor Crabb et al., 2016; Ninimaki&Hassi, 2011), cradle to cradle design (Michel&Lee, 2017), and upgrade recycling and remanufacturing design (Sara LC Han et al., 2017).

Literature co citation analysis (knowledge hotspot)

Figure 2 shows a document co citation network with 193 nodes and 332 links generated from 863 articles by CiteSpace Visualization and analysis. In CiteSpace's analysis, the time line from 1987 to 2019 is divided into a group of time periods, each of which is two years. In every two years, select the top 25 The most frequently cited studies were analyzed by co citation.

In the network, each node represents the cited status of the article, and the link represents the co cited relationship. The larger node size represents the frequently cited publications, which means that these papers are important to SDTAI Has made significant contributions in this field. According to Figure 2, Table 2 shows the top 10 most frequently cited literatures from 1987 to 2019, including one book and nine journal articles.

Based on the first 10 highly cited literatures, preliminarily verify the most important research topics in the field of SDTAI, including sustainable supply chain management, sustainable consumer behavior, sustainable design, and sustainable business model.

As shown in Figure 2 and Table 2, sustainable supply chain management is an important research topic. Using exploratory case study methods, Caniato et al. (2012) analyzed TAI Motivation, practice and performance indicators of green supply chain management for companies of medium and different sizes. Their research results show that compared with small companies, large companies are more concerned with product and process improvement, as well as related incremental changes. From the perspective of inbound and outbound enterprises, small enterprises can completely redesign their supply chains due to their small size, while large enterprises only focus on certain aspects. Based on the views of stakeholders, de Brito et al. ( 2008) This paper discusses the impact of the sustainable development movement on the organization and performance of the clothing retail supply chain, expounds the challenges and conflicts from different dimensions of sustainable development, and studies how to use internal and external organizations in the European supply chain. Seuring and Mueller (2008) proposed the conceptual framework of sustainable supply chain management by summarizing the existing knowledge system. At the same time, the relevant research in this field mainly focuses on the environment. However, relatively few studies focus on the integration of the three dimensions of society and sustainability. be based on The theoretical framework of Souring and Mueller (2008), Turker and Altuntas (2014) in TAI This paper puts forward the current situation of sustainable supply chain management from the perspective of concept. Their research results show that to improve the overall performance of the sustainable development of the supply chain, these companies need not only to attach great importance to the compliance with the supplier code of conduct, but also to further monitor audit actions and develop standards for supplier sustainable development. These actions can reduce production problems in developing countries.

Based on Figure 2, sustainable consumer behavior in TAI is also a key research topic. Joy, etc. ( 2012 ) The internal disharmony of fast fashion consumers is analyzed. They often pay attention to environmental issues, even if they focus on consumption patterns that run counter to ecological best practices. Niinim?ki ( 2010 ) Ecological fashion consumption and consumer purchase decision are discussed. Their research results show that moral commitment and values are powerful driving forces for purchasing ecological clothing. The existing attitude behavior gap in the field of ecological fashion stems from the fact that designers, manufacturers and retailers do not understand consumers' needs and expectations. Using literature review and case study methods, Shen (2014) mainly determined and analyzed the sustainable fashion supply chain structure from the perspective of consumers, and introduced H&M's sustainable operation and lessons learned.

As shown in Figure 2 and Table 2, sustainable design in TAI is becoming more and more important. Niinim ? ki and Hassi (2011) The consumer's interest in design strategies, such as life assurance, product satisfaction, product attachment, and emotional satisfaction with design and service, are analyzed. Based on these design methods, they proposed a set of design and manufacturing strategies to reduce the impact of manufacturing and consumption on the environment. Fletcher (2008) proposed two versions of sustainable fashion and textile design) It summarizes how to use design concepts and strategies to shape more sustainable products and promote social change throughout the product life cycle. In addition, these studies explored design methods that change the scale and nature of consumption, such as service design, localization, speed, and user engagement.

According to Figure 2 and Table 2, sustainable business model is the main focus area of current research. TAI Innovative and sustainable business models are needed to reduce the impact on the environment; Many opportunities can be obtained through the product service system. Armstrong et al. ( 2015 ) This paper probes into the positive and negative views of consumers on the characteristics of the service system of textile and clothing products, so as to determine the obstacles and feasible methods for implementing the product service system model. Their research found that environmental benefits and emotions are the main driving forces of positive cognition. The loss of confidence of service providers and perceived barriers to accessibility are the main drivers of negative perceptions.

Cluster analysis (knowledge field)

The document co citation network can provide further insight into SDTAI, while cluster analysis allows investigation and detection of important topics, contents and interrelationships (Si et al., 2019). CiteSpace Clusters of commonly cited references can be identified, where each cluster corresponds to a basic topic, theme or research direction. CiteSpace uses three statistical methods for cluster analysis: log likelihood ratio (LLR) Verification, word frequency inverse document frequency (TF * IDF) and mutual information (MI) verification (Zhao, 2017) Therefore, CiteSpace's clustering analysis is used to analyze documents and get the main clustering. Cluster tags are automatically selected from the top noun phrases of each cluster. The noun phrases are extracted from the titles, keywords and abstracts of publications.

According to Figure 3 and Table 3, the first five clusters are obtained, and their silhouette score> 0.758, indicating the homogeneity of clustering. The number of documents in each cluster determines the size of the cluster. The largest cluster has 29 documents, cluster # 0. The smallest cluster has 15 documents, cluster # 4.

Group 0, "Business Performance", consists of 29 articles, representing a sustainable business model. The concept of sustainable business model is used in TAI (Nosratabadi et al., 2019 Years; Pal and Gander, 2018; Todeschini et al., 2017; Weissbrod and Bocken, 2017 Year). The sustainable business model is a structure used to explore the company's creation and acquisition of value, which aims to achieve the sustainable development goal (Bocken Et al., 2014; Boons&L ü deke Freund, 2013) The sustainable business model can effectively reduce the harmful impact of business activities on the environment and society by providing solutions to help companies achieve economic and sustainable development goals. Therefore, in order to deal with adverse social and environmental impacts, researchers try to propose tools and methods for designing sustainable business models. For example, based on a Development of new design tools of reDesign canvas, Kozlowski et al. (2018) proposed a 12 brick business model canvas to ensure entrepreneurs develop sustainable TA brand. Hirscher et al. (2018) proposed to transform users into value creators, and through the application of DIY and jointly completed design strategies Create sustainable business models in design and manufacturing. In addition, some studies discussed various business models of textiles and clothing, including collaborative consumption models of textiles and clothing products (such as leasing, sharing and exchange) (Armstrong Et al., 2015, 2016; Becker Leifhold and Iran, 2018); Iran & Schrader，2017 Years; Pal, 2017; Str ? hle&Erhard, 2017; Todeschini et al., 2017 ) to second-hand retail (Becker Leifhold&Iran, 2018; Haug&Busch, 2016); Steller and Horn, 2017 Years; Str ? hle&Klatt, 2017) and upgraded and rebuilt goods (Pal, 2017).

The first group, "morality", consists of 26 Article on behalf of moral fashion. Moral fashion refers to a method of designing, purchasing and manufacturing clothes. It can not only maximize the benefits for people and communities, but also minimize the impact on the environment through moral fashion forums (Haug & Busch，2016 Year). This model has become a means for garment enterprises to meet consumers' desire for sustainable development. Clothing companies usually focus on the following aspects of ethical fashion: environmental sustainability of products and fair trade compliance in procurement and production methods (Barnes &Joergens, 2006). Moral manufacturing and consumers' interest in moral fashion are very important for many scholars (Niinim ? ki, 2010) Carey and Cervellon ( 2014 ) By investigating and comparing consumers in Canada, France and Britain, this paper discusses the attitude of fashion oriented consumers to moral fashion. Based on the comparison of moral fashion choices in different countries, Barnes and Joergens (2006) and Joy et al. (2012) found that ethical standards can be used in purchase decisions, which usually do not apply to fashion choices. Cui et al. ( 2012 ) The consumer's concern, belief and knowledge about moral fashion are discussed. Their results show that consumers' confidence in ethical fashion will affect their recognition of companies that practice the principle of sustainability.

Cluster # 2, "Supply Chain Management", includes 23 articles. TA Consumers pay extensive attention to environmental and social issues; Therefore, it is more and more important to translate sustainability principles into operational practices in the supply chain (Macchion et al., 2018 Year). An effective sustainable supply chain can enhance a company's brand image and reach a wider range of ethical consumers (Faisal, 2010). Therefore, enterprises should try to gain strong competitiveness in the market (Yang et al al., 2010). Existing research related to sustainable supply chain management mainly focuses on specific areas, such as new product development, ecological material production, sustainable production, green distribution and green retail (Macchion Et al., 2018; Morana and Souring, 2011; Shen, 2014) Some scholars discussed the driving factors and obstacles of sustainable supply chain management. Diabat et al. ( 2014) shows that some factors, such as employee participation, stability and community economy, are important for implementing sustainable supply chain management. Li et al. ( 2014) shows that strengthening corporate internal governance and effective cooperation with stakeholders will help to achieve the sustainability of fast fashion supply chain management. In addition, fashion brands are currently integrating environmentally friendly materials, ethical labor practices, renewable energy and green manufacturing according to the sustainable strategy in the fashion supply chain to determine best practices based on economic, social and environmental considerations (Nayak et al., 2019 Year). However, so far, sustainability issues are mainly solved from the perspective of society or environment; Further comprehensive and comprehensive research should be encouraged (Marshall et al., 2015).

The third group, "manufacturing enterprises", consists of 19 articles related to sustainable production. TAI Faced with climate change, environmental pollution, resource depletion, ecological destruction, strict regulatory system, demand for sustainable textiles and increased textile consumption, etc. Therefore, improving the level of sustainable production is an urgent problem to be solved (Desore & Narula, 2018 ; Jeswani et al., 2008)。 In order to deal with the above problems in TA production, many TAs in the world The factory has successfully developed and implemented sustainable production methods (Alkaya&Demirer, 2014) Some researchers have focused on redesigning pollution and waste control systems. For example, environmental technologies (anaerobic biotechnology, membrane technology, nanofiltration, etc.) can be combined to reduce wastewater discharge and increase the use of renewable energy (Dasgupta Et al., 2015; Dos Santos et al., 2007; Ozturk et al.) et al., 2015; Wenzel and Knudsen, 2005 Years; Zabaniotou and Andreou, 2010). In addition, Wenzel and Knudsen (2005) It is suggested that water and water-based energy and chemicals can be collected and reused through process integration. In addition, various studies have focused on redesigning the manufacturing process from the perspective of environmental sustainability. For example, some technologies (i.e., transformation of water softening system, use of drip irrigation flushing, and various valves and accessories related to water distribution) have been applied to enterprises (Chico et al., 2013 ; Dasgupta et al., 2015 ; Khandegar & Saroha，2013 Years; Narayanaswamy and Scott, 2001; Nieminen et al., 2007) In addition, some studies focus on the use of natural fibers, natural dyes, recycled materials, ecological materials and renewable energy in production (Doty et al., 2016; Na&Na, 2015 Years; Niinim ? ki&Hassi, 2011; ? En, 2008); Sezen, 2013; Zabaniotou and Andreou, 2010).

Group 4, "Consumer Behavior", consists of 15 articles related to sustainable consumer behavior. TAI It is consumer driven. The demand for products is widely influenced by consumer knowledge, values and concepts (Butler, 1997; Dixon, 2000). Therefore, for TAI The barriers and incentives to sustainable consumption have been extensively studied (Freudenreich&Schaltegger, 2020 Year). For example, raising consumers' awareness of clothing sustainability issues can subsequently change their behavior (Harris et al., 2016). Almeida (2015) and Ma et al. ( 2017) studied the impact of ecological labels and sustainable labels on consumer behavior of textiles and clothing. South, etc. (2017) addressed the factors that affect consumers' purchase of green sportswear. Sariam and Okur (2019) used Fritzsche model to test the impact of personal values on consumers' moral and fashion consumption behavior. Hong and Kang (2019) This paper investigates how moral philosophy and moral intensity affect consumers' willingness to purchase sustainable TA products. Some studies have found that fit and style factors also dominate clothing related decisions (Bly et al., 2015) Only a few "morally tough" consumers regard sustainability standards as the main factor in their clothing purchase decisions (Niinim ? ki, 2010 Year). In addition, by understanding the attitude behavior gap, some studies have investigated the barriers that restrict consumers from buying green clothes (Maloney et al., 2014; Phau et al., 2015 Years; Wiederhold and Martinez, 2018).

discuss

This research adopts the scientific metrology method to analyze the knowledge base, hot spots and fields of SDTAI, and then integrate them into a knowledge roadmap, as shown in Figure 4 The knowledge base, domain and structure form the SDTAI Knowledge roadmap for. The knowledge base is obtained by keyword co-occurrence analysis 60 It is composed of three main keywords. Knowledge areas include business performance, ethics, supply chain management, manufacturing enterprises and consumer behavior determined by cluster analysis. According to the knowledge base, hot spots and fields, the knowledge structure has been developed, involving corporate social responsibility, sustainable business model, LCA, textile products and raw materials, sustainable design, ethics, supply chain management, manufacturing enterprises and consumer behavior. These research topics are further divided into five systems: design, manufacturing, evaluation, management and marketing. TA The sustainable design system of The sustainability performance of the product throughout its life cycle. TA design has a wide range of environmental and social impacts on the selection, production, procurement and use of raw materials for products, and has been widely concerned by academia and practitioners. At present, some scholars have discussed the impact TA Factors for the implementation of sustainable design practices. In addition, some scholars have also conducted relevant research on TA's sustainable design methods and strategies. TA design has a wide range of environmental and social impacts on the selection, production, procurement and use of raw materials for products, and has been widely concerned by academia and practitioners. At present, some scholars have discussed the impact TA Factors for the implementation of sustainable design practices. In addition, some scholars have also conducted relevant research on TA's sustainable design methods and strategies. TA design has a wide range of environmental and social impacts on the selection, production, procurement and use of raw materials for products, and has been widely concerned by academia and practitioners. At present, some scholars have discussed the impact Factors for the implementation of TA sustainable design practices. In addition, some scholars have also conducted relevant research on TA's sustainable design methods and strategies.

On the one hand, TA's sustainable manufacturing system focuses on improving TAI Environmental sustainability of raw material production and processing processes, such as animal husbandry, plant planting, chemical fiber production and natural fiber production processes. On the other hand, it focuses on improving the environmental sustainability of TA production processes, such as spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing, sewing and waste water treatment processes. At present, some scholars have explored the impact of various fibers and products such as yarn, textiles and clothing on the environment, while others focus on TAI's sustainable production methods and technologies.

The TA sustainable development assessment system mainly involves life cycle environmental impact assessment methods. It is an internationally standardized environmental management and decision support tool, which can quantitatively assess and manage the environmental impact of TA products in the whole life cycle process, and is widely recognized and applied in Thailand. At present, scholars have mainly carried out the quantification and assessment of environmental impact in the fields of various fibers and yarns, textiles and clothing, and the recycling of textiles and clothing.

TA's sustainable management system mainly focuses on all aspects of interaction and management between different stakeholders in the TA product life cycle. While improving the profitability of enterprises, it can also effectively reduce the negative impact of business activities on the environment and society. For example, by building a sustainable business model, enterprises can achieve the integration of economy and sustainable development; Enterprises also combine sustainable development with supply chain management, build a sustainable supply chain, strengthen internal governance of enterprises, and strengthen effective cooperation with stakeholders; In addition, they focus on corporate social responsibility by managing social impacts such as human rights and the working environment.

　　TA The sustainable marketing system of the company mainly focuses on influencing consumer behavior in the purchase, use and disposal of goods, and improving consumers' awareness of sustainability. At present, many scholars pay attention to the obstacles and incentives of sustainable consumption, and the perceived value, attitude, intention and behavior of consumers towards sustainable products. In addition, some scholars focus on the methods of designing, purchasing and manufacturing ethical fashion clothes, and explore the attitudes, interests, environmental sustainability and fair trade compliance in the procurement and production methods of ethical fashion products.

Based on the analysis of knowledge base, knowledge field and knowledge structure, the research status of SDTAI can be understood through the knowledge roadmap shown in Figure 4. Due to SDTAI The research of is an expanding multidisciplinary field, and the knowledge roadmap may change in the future. Nevertheless, this study proposes a mapping method and a knowledge roadmap that can serve as a guide for future changes.

The results of scientific metrological analysis help to provide a comprehensive knowledge framework in the field of SDTAI, thus preventing experts from ignoring broader related topics. In addition, SDTAI can be executed continuously To acquire updated knowledge.

conclusion

The acquisition, processing and manufacturing, distribution and transportation of raw materials, as well as the use and disposal of consumers, have had significant environmental and social impacts. Therefore, many practitioners and scholars have paid attention to TAI Sustainability issues. However, few efforts have been made to comprehensively review these studies. The purpose of this study is to use scientific metrological methods in SDTAI The field provides a comprehensive and quantitative review. Based on the bibliometric review, we propose a knowledge roadmap for SDTAI, which can review its current research and practice, and provide valuable references for academia and industry. In addition, with the continuous development and improvement of research theory and practice in the field of SDTAI, relevant research data should be updated regularly,

Specifically, the results of this study are as follows. (1) A total of 60 key words of TAI's sustainable development knowledge base were identified (Table 1) (2) Four research hotspots (sustainable supply chain management, sustainable consumer behavior, sustainable design and sustainable business model) have been identified in the field of SDTAI. (3) SDTAI determined Knowledge areas, including business performance, ethics, supply chain management, manufacturing enterprises and consumer behavior. (4) The knowledge structure consists of nine subjects (corporate social responsibility, business performance, life cycle assessment, textile products and raw materials, sustainable design, ethics, supply chain management, manufacturing enterprises and consumer behavior), which are further divided into five systems (design, manufacturing, assessment, management, marketing).

Based on SDTAI The review of the past 32 years has identified some possible directions for further investigation. First of all, the existing research mainly focuses on how to guide the sustainable consumption behavior of TA consumers, but lacks attention to whether consumers have the ability to implement sustainable consumption of TA, and the strength of sustainable consumption ability is closely related to the realization of sustainable consumption of TA consumers. Sustainable consumption behavior. Therefore, the future needs to TA And sustainable consumption capacity. Secondly, although the research on the influencing factors, methods, strategies and tools of TA sustainable design has been carried out, the research methods in this field are mostly interviews or case studies, lacking quantitative and empirical research. In addition, there is a lack of quantitative sustainable design tools. Therefore, in order to promote the wide application of sustainable design methods in practice, we should explore the above aspects in the future. Thirdly, based on the life cycle theory, existing studies have used single or multiple indicators to calculate and assess the environmental impact of TA products, and obtained a large number of quantitative data on environmental impact. However, at present, the environmental information of TA supply chain or products is not transparent and traceable, and the quality and reliability of data are questioned by consumers and society, posing challenges to the implementation of sustainable development. With the development of science and technology, blockchain, Internet of Things and other modern information technologies,