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Appreciation With The Return Of Neoclassicism As The Theme: Milan Men'S Wear Week Autumn / Winter 2022

2022/1/25 4:10:00 0

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The death of Nino Cerruti, known as the father of Italian fashion, has cast a sad atmosphere on this season's Milan men's wear week. Coincidentally, Milan men's week, which ended on the 18th, witnessed the return of neoclassical men's wear style, which is undoubtedly consistent with Nino Cerruti's witty, formal and casual design concept. Although there is no direct connection between the two, people are still willing to regard this trend as a way to pay homage to the "classic men's wear school" represented by Nino Cerruti. With the return of neoclassicism and the decline of street sports, Milan men's wear week is still full of surprises.

With the spread of the new round of epidemic on the European continent, many important brands have announced the cancellation of the entity fashion show on this season's Milan men's wear week. This is undoubtedly an even worse thing for Milan men's wear week, which is faced with the survival crisis of declining influence, leaving of local famous brands and lack of cutting-edge design strength.

First, designer Giorgio Armani announced the cancellation of Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani autumn 2022 men's wear show, which was scheduled to be held in Milan on January 15 and 17. Then, on January 10, JW Anderson also announced the cancellation of the physical fashion show and turned to online display in this season's men's wear week. The Pitti uomo men's wear show in Florence, which was held a few days earlier than Milan men's wear week, also had the situation that brands cancelled fashion activities collectively because of the epidemic.

Ann Demeulemeester, who became a special guest brand of Pitti uomo this year, announced the cancellation of the fashion event scheduled for January 12 at the old Florence railway factory stazione Leopolda due to the epidemic. Brunello cucinelli kept the activities of men's wear week in Milan and cancelled the activities in Pitti uomo.

Brunello cucinelli autumn / winter 2022

Although the absence of these brands has reduced the volume and attention of Milan men's wear week to a certain extent, it has not made the whole fashion week dull. Instead, after more than a year of digital fashion shows, brands have figured out how to make fashion the focus of attention and how to get it to revive people's desire.

From this season's Milan men's wear week, people can still feel the psychological comfort that fashion can bring. Although the epidemic continues, but in the face of the overall global recovery trend, designers are still aware that optimistic and positive emotions should dominate their design. In the past year or so, due to home office and social isolation, many brands have used "comfort" as the "excuse" to abandon the most charming style and ritual sense of men's wear, and summarize the men's clothing style in the post epidemic era with the "lazy" comfortable and concise style.

Tod's fall / winter 2022 menswear collection

However, the return of physical fashion shows and the scheduled fashion week have brought the external connection established by online live broadcasting back to reality in the past two years. As a result, many brands suddenly realize that it is time to step out of the comfort zone of "more than a year's nest". It is not advisable to escape from reality. It is a feasible way to return to the reality with the fashion of "catching horses" returning to neoclassicism.

The return of Neoclassicism

Therefore, the humorous, standard fusion personality, classic elegant and modern neoclassical style runs through the whole Milan men's wear week in autumn and winter 2022. Around the neoclassicism, designers are racking their brains on tailoring, silhouette, color and collocation, trying to reshape the contemporary style of men's wear after the flooding of street sports style and minimalist leisure style. They reinterpret classics, pay homage to classics, look back at the past and look to the future.

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons named Prada's fall / winter 2022 men's wear collection as "work body" and use uniform design related to work role to show the real life state. Amo, a partner for many years, rebuilt the Prada foundation deposito hall into a highly realistic performance stage, followed by Thomas Brodie Sangster, ASA Butterfield, Jeff Goldblum, damson Idris, Kyle MacLachlan, Tom Mercier, Jaden Michael, Louis partridge Ashton sanders and Filippo Scotti, the top 10 Hollywood movie stars, were invited to appear in turn, as if to reproduce the classic scenes of men's wear series in autumn and winter 2012 a decade ago.

Prada autumn / winter 2022 menswear collection

As the brand wrote in the press release, "realistic symbolic elements open a dialogue with elegant and delicate images, praising real everyday life." Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons offer a new style for men's wear, which combines pragmatism with functionality. The pilot's jacket, leather windbreaker and Parka with large silhouette are Raf Simons's "private goods" to express self-care; Mohair trim, glossy patent leather, sports technology fabric fusion system tailoring are in line with Miuccia Prada's consistent method of recreating classic things. Whether it is the rigorous and straight silhouette or the modern work uniform design with industrial coldness, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons intentionally or unintentionally show the power consciousness behind men's wear, calling people to recall the men's wear classic era which was not invaded by the street trend at that time.

Prada autumn / winter 2022 menswear collection

In the turbulent background of reality, it is inevitable for people to avoid the world. Therefore, it is a good way to use fashion to construct spiritual Utopia by exerting subjective initiative in fashion design. Silvia Venturini Fendi clearly found the best entry point this season. In Fendi's fall / winter 2022 menswear collection, Silvia Venturini Fendi infuses the elegance of the old world into the booming 1920s, presenting enduring classics.

Fendi autumn / winter 2022 menswear collection

The Roman elegance of Fendi's blood is reflected in the ultra short double breasted jacket, the super high waisted trousers, the Mary Jean Brock shoes with watch strap design elements and the matching tuxedo. The design of cloaks, skirts, models' exposed shoulders, drooping shoulders and shawl sleeves is a direct expression of Silvia Venturini Fendi's masculinity in classicism. Ruffle lacquered leather o'lock lefoy shoes and two-color Brock ChElSEY boots bring the nostalgic atmosphere to the maximum. After the contemporary reconstruction of classical aesthetics and the romantic reappearance of masculinity, Silvia Venturini Fendi's feedback to reality is the core elements of neoclassical men's wear style - elegance and complexity. For Silvia Venturini Fendi, it is very important to continue to change men's dress code

Fendi autumn / winter 2022 menswear collection

Similarly, in zagna's autumn / winter 2022 series, Alessandro Sartori, the group's art director, once again emphasized the importance of exquisite tailoring to men's wear, and brought neoclassicism to a practical level more in line with real life. After completing the listing in the United States, merging brand product lines, launching a new brand logo, and co branding with fear of God, Zegna has started a new journey. Perhaps because of the start of a new journey, Alessandro Sartori didn't put too much weight on the new series.

Alessandro Sartori recreates the classic concept of men's wardrobe, gives a new definition to traditional formal dress, and emphasizes the seamless connection between indoor and outdoor life. The multi-level overlapping and the fusion of different styles and functions run through the design theme of this season. The elegant and neat overall profile provides enough flexibility to adapt to real life; The detailed design of cape coat and jacket, work coat, parka, cotton padded jacket, pullover, narrow legged trousers, as well as neckline and pocket details are in line with the most basic practical principles of men's dress requirements.

Zagna autumn / winter 2022

On the other side of the room, maybe Jonathan Anderson had no intention of "competing" with Silvia Venturini Fendi, but they both had a discussion on masculinity. Jonathan Anderson focuses on redefining masculinity in the collection, inspired by a gorgeous party event, creating a shared wardrobe for boys and girls with a clear gender specific design. At the same time, he also regained the youthful vitality of his former party. He wore silver or sequined leggings, knitted woolen sweaters, two-color splicing jackets, filled animal type handbags in different shapes, and all kinds of fragmentary elements from real life added childlike innocence to the wardrobe, which was dedicated to those who lingered on the dance floor Clothes of young people who can only be relieved by carnival.

His close observation of life has enabled Jonathan Anderson to blend the commonplace into unusual silhouettes in unexpected ways. This playful expression of reality and precise deconstruction of classical silhouette are not the reasons why we expect him?

JW Anderson autumn / winter 2022 menswear collection

In my opinion, Etro presented the best show of this season's Milan men's wear week.

For Kean Etro, it is necessary for young people to continue to dream, so he opened the autumn and winter 2022 men's wear show with a set of meaningful and exquisite pocket books. Books are connected by deep-seated common clues, and the contents are different. However, they can be put in the pocket regardless of their weight and weight. They can accompany the readers on the journey of emotion and knowledge. From here, young people embark on a long and unknown journey to a seemingly distant but accessible destination.

Etro 2022 autumn / winter menswear collection

Thanks to the voluminous atmosphere brought by the pocket book, Kean Etro is able to present the romantic of Bard in the series. The soft and clean clothes are composed of various full colors arranged in monochrome, with cold gray and cobalt blue, rich purple, forest green and orange yellow, bright red, electric light blue and a little mustard yellow, supplemented by black and white patterns; The fabrics are made of fine and tactile materials. Wool, velvet, jacquard silk and rubber interweave the classic paisley pattern of the brand. This new series, with a strong Bohemian style, is like a dose of adrenaline. It brings the "optimism" in the mouth of Kean Etro, and at the same time, it also lets us see the confrontation and collision of men from adolescence to adulthood.

Etro 2022 autumn / winter menswear collection

In the series, Dsquared2 embarks on a journey to re explore the world. The design elements of rope detail coat, rubber Parka Coat, rubber camouflage pants, technology fabric and Canvas Backpack are full of outdoor style design elements, which make the series full of deliberate noise. Although it is not quite in line with neoclassicism, we can still see the classic things hidden in the details, which blur the boundaries between different styles and let people experience the witty humor of neoclassicism.

Dsquared2 fall / winter 2022 menswear collection

In 1017 alyx 9SM, Matthew Williams continues to show the sharpness and indifference of fashion. Masculine and feminine are in sharp contrast to the silhouette of the garment. Even though technological futurism still creates most of the highlights of the collection, Matthew Williams embraces authenticity and practicality with restrained tailoring.

1017 alyx 9SM fall / winter 2022 menswear collection

The discussion among international celebrities continues, and rookies from China, Japan and India have left their mark on this season's Milan men's wear week.

It is the third year that KB Hong has presented the new collection in digital form at Milan fashion week. As in previous seasons, the oriental aesthetics explored by KB Hong starts with the timeless classic elements in men's wardrobe, such as custom-made suits and long coats, but through futuristic elements such as layered design and metal fabrics, the series is also given a rigorous and elegant look of men.

Children of the discordance is different from other brands born in Japanese street culture. Designer Hideaki shikama constructs a complete cultural community, including skateboarders, street dancers and hip-hop stars. Through the deconstruction and reconstruction of vintage clothing, Hideaki shikama created a highly recognizable aesthetics of men's wear with retro collage, military elements and traditional Japanese printing.

Children of the discordance fall / winter 2022 menswear collection

Dhruv Kapoor from India continues to explore the future of pop aesthetics in the latest autumn / winter 2022 collection. Geometric patterned tights, rib knitted open back tops, military overcoats with psychedelic spin patterns, truck jackets with geometric embroidery, and furry bucket caps are all reminiscent of the cool 90's rave party look. Dhruv Kapoor also keeps a close eye on the real social issues in the atmosphere of the future imagination and nostalgia. It is understood that 40% of the clothing materials in the collection are made from recycled cloth, and the designer has also provided help to the hothur foundation foundation to create jobs for survivors of sulfuric acid attacks in Indian society.

Dhruv Kapoor fall / winter 2022

Although the neoclassical men's wear and physical fashion shows have returned, the digital technology that helps brands maintain continuous dialogue with the public and the outside world during the epidemic has not been abandoned by brands. On the contrary, it has become an auxiliary tool and the main way for brands to supplement narrative integrity. This season, designers continue to experiment in the real world and the virtual world: JW Anderson launched NFT works; Fendi cooperates with the encryption hardware wallet ledger to release the encryption hardware wallet accessories series designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi; Alessandro Sartori filmed a video for the new series in Oasis Zegna, where models walk through the snow forest to clear the real world.

Fendi and the encryption hardware wallet ledger launched the encryption hardware wallet accessories series

The combination of reality and digital technology brings a new way to fashion presentation. Although it is undeniable that digital technology is cold and untouchable, the general trend has proved that virtual digital technology will be more integrated with fashion in the future, and the coexistence and mutual promotion of the two are almost a certainty.

This was a situation that people had never thought of before the outbreak, but now it has become a new normal. Now designers respond to the reality with fashion again. They shuttle in different space-time fields, looking for inspiration from the past classics and the current reality. They pull the neoclassical aesthetics back to the men's wear world which has been "silent" for more than a year with tailoring, crafts, silhouettes and colors, and once again inject authenticity into men's wear. Thanks to these designers, we can see the return of the authenticity of men's wear.

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