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    The Brands That Used To Be "Fashion Enlightenment" Have Lost Their Way In Today'S Market Environment.

    2020/3/20 18:49:00 7

    Brand

    "Duan wood took me to Metersbonwe... When I look in the mirror, I don't know who the girl is. "This line from the 2009 TV drama" meteor shower "is probably only present in the Kuso clip. But this "stalk" undoubtedly saved many post-1980s and post-90s first fashion memories.

    The local leisure clothing brand represented by Metersbonwe has enriched the wardrobe of a generation of people with rich selection products, the idea of "one-stop shopping" and the dazzling street stores. But before and after 2012, these once brilliant national (or even Asian) leading apparel companies were in the fast fashion giants of Spain, Sweden and Japan, and at the foot of China's rising Taobao brand.

    These brands are lost on the path of full channel development, visual marketing and social media promotion, and fail to effectively solve problems such as product design, inventory backlog and inefficient entity network. It is not effective to ask for celebrity endorsement or naming sponsorship, and can only gradually withdraw from the yellow line section of the second tier business circle to the four or five line towns. In contrast, Lining, Anta and Taiping bird, who also accompanied us to grow, constantly optimize and evolve their products in terms of creativity and structure.

      Metersbonwe

    In 1995, Metersbonwe was born in Metersbonwe, a small tailor shop in Wenzhou. Later it made a big fashion business by means of "light asset mode" (about outsourcing sourcing, garment manufacturing and sales). At the peak of development, Metersbonwe has more than 5200 stores in the whole country with a market value of 38 billion 900 million yuan, and Jay Chou, Angela Chang and Willber Pan have endorsed Metersbonwe. Zhou Chengjian, founder of the "17 billion 10 million richest man", was selected as the "richest man in the clothing industry" in the 2012 Forbes rich list.

    But now the United States wants to get back to its peak. It's still a long way to go. From 2013 to 2016, the number of stores in the United States dropped to 3900, with a net loss of 99 million 902 thousand and 800 yuan in the first three quarters of 2019, and the loss in 2019 is expected to expand.

    The United States still cling to brand building, but the "front" seems to be a little more. The main line brand Metersbonwe announced that it had "upgraded" since 2017, divided 5 brands, and invited 5 spokesmen. The fashion accessory line Me & City, which was founded in 2008, steeply turned to the "cool" simple wind route, while the other line "Chin" was the main cotton and linen clothing and "slow life" household products.

       Semir

    The Semir costume, which was born in 1996, originated in Wenzhou. It is also known as a casual dress giant in China. It also grows and develops with the "light asset mode". Its main brands are Semir (Semir) and balbala (Balabala).

    The development of Semir today benefits from multiple complementary brand matrices and international layout. In recent years, the focus of development has gradually been oriented towards children's clothing and e-commerce business.

    Between 2008 and 2016, Barbara's revenue rose from 548 million to 5 billion 1 million, with an average annual compound growth rate of 31.8%. In 2017, children's wear exceeded adult casual wear and became the engine of growth and the largest source of group growth. In 2015, Semir worked with ISE, a South Korean electricity supplier company, to introduce South Korea's well-known e-commerce platform W Concept into China, mainly selling Korean clothing, cosmetics and creative home products.

       YISHION

    This brand, founded in 1997, is loved by junior high school students in its "youth campus series". Even when "national Idol" Li Yuchun came out in 2005 "Super Girls", it also passed a "YISHION" Logo short sleeve T-shirt on TV.

    YISHION has its own design team, garment factories and quality control management, which is perhaps the advantage of its rapid catching trend. YISHION's official website showed that as of 2015, the group also had 6000 stores.

    YISHION has also worked hard to enter the "new retail" business as early as 2011. But two years later, because of high operating costs and competing with its physical channels, it stopped. At present, YISHION has launched exclusive online brand A21 only on Tmall and Jingdong platforms.

       JEANSWEST (JeansWest)

    Few people realized that JEANSWEST, famous for jeans and jeans, was bought from overseas by Hongkong entrepreneurs. Starting from the establishment of garment factories in 70s and establishing multiple foundry bases in Southeast Asia, Yang Xuzou, founder of Sunrise International, JEANSWEST's parent group, is expanding internationally. In 1990, he bought Jeanwest, an Australian denim brand, and quickly entered new markets such as New Zealand.

    But a generation of "jeans king" began to fall after 2013. In 2015, Quicksilver, another big brand of JEANSWEST, went bankrupt. In 2017, JEANSWEST's Australian business was acquired by Howsea Limited. In January 2020, JEANSWEST Australia subsidiary also announced bankruptcy liquidation.

      Giordano (Giordano)

    Giordano fashion fashion brand Giordano was founded in 1981, and its focus shifted from wholesale to retail in the late stage. At present, it has Giordano brand (including casual wear for men and women, children's wear and high-end women's wear), parity BSX and Beau Monde by Giordano.

    In 1991, Giordano went public in Hongkong, and then opened its first store in Guangzhou in 1992, becoming China's first casual wear retail chain brand. But now in the mainland market, Giordano stores are becoming more and more difficult to see.

    Giordano is still expanding its physical retail network, just outside China. As of June 2019, Giordano international has opened 2424 stores in the world and plans to enter the markets of South Africa, Mongolia, France and Mauritius in the year.

    Interestingly, Liu Qi, founder of UNIQLO, praised the product of Giordano when he saw it in Hongkong in 80s. Later, he wrote in his autobiography, "Giordano's T-shirt price is low, but the quality is very good. I can't help thinking, "that's what I want." But over the past few decades, UNIQLO has left more than ten streets in Giordano, whether in the world or in China.

       Baleno (Baleno)

    Andy Lau, the "king of heaven" and "Tian Hou" Faye Wong, endorsed Baleno as one of the representatives of Hong Kong fashion brands. Baleno was first known as a less famous brand in Italy. In 1996, Hongkong textile foundry company De Yongjia bought the trademark ownership and repackaged it to the retail market. Later, a fashion brand called Baleno became famous in the first small store in Tianhe, Guangzhou.

    To cooperate with local state enterprises and develop franchising chains is the two way Baleno can surpass Giordano in a short time. At the peak of March 2012, Baleno's mainland stores once reached 4044.

    But with the severe inventory backlog, Baleno has to rely on discounts to survive. In 2016, he made a price of 250 million yuan and sold the Shanghai Baleno Kingdom Limited to Shanghai Hui Ye industry. But in the 2018 fiscal year, Baleno was still weak, so Germany had to buy Baleno. So what? Baleno continued its new store in 2019.

       Espirit

    Esprit was born in San Francisco in 1968. The founder was Douglas and Susie Tompkins couple (they also founded outdoor sports brand The North Face in 1966). Hongkong Xingli Li began in 1972 to become the purchasing agent of the Tompkins couple. In the end, he completed four acquisitions in 2002, unifying the global Espirit brand and becoming a legend in the Chinese fashion circle (his wife is Brigitte Lin).

    In 1992, Espirit entered the mainland market. With its excellent design and innovative display, it became the representative brand of the "urban middle class". In 2016, Espirit also launched capsule series OCxEsprit Heritage Collection with Opening Ceremony, an American buyer's shop.

    Following Europe, Australia and New Zealand's closing shop boom, in early December 2019, Espirit's parent company global group moved the brand's mainland management rights to GXG's parent company, mosang holdings. Espirit has not escaped the long winter of physical retailing. However, the 4 stores of Opening Ceremony will also be closed indefinitely in 2020.

       Clothes and love (E-Land)

    More than a decade ago, E-Land's British college Jacket Suit and Teenie Weenie cub sweater always attract students' attention. Two brand stores also occupy a prominent position in department stores. Behind them is the Korean fashion retail group clothing and love group.

    In 1996, E-Land opened its first store in mainland China, located in the east commercial building of Shanghai. In addition to fashion brands like E-Land and Teenie Weenie, lt also acts as a proxy for New Balance, Cole Haan and other brand businesses across restaurants, retail and hotels.

    The clothing and love group has to sell some of its brand businesses now. In 2016, Vigna S, a Shenzhen fashion company (V-Grass), acquired Teenie Weenie brand and brand related assets and businesses for about $900 million. In 2019, XTEP bought 1 billion 750 million yuan of E-Land Footwear USA Holdings, which owns K-Swiss, Palladium and Supra.

       Only

    JACK&JONES and Only were once synonymous with popular costumes, and behind the two brands were the same company: Danish clothing retailer Bestseller. In 1997, two employees of Bestseller came to China to set up the fashionable dress, and gradually introduced its brand Only, Vero Moda, Jack & Jones and Selected into China. These brands have been popular for ten years, and creative home and stationery brand Hay has also entered China.

    In recent years, China has been paying more attention to smart retailing. In the end of 2017, it started building small program stores. In 2018, it launched the "face recognition intelligent store" with smart fitting rooms. In 2019, it opened up online and offline, further promoting the promotion and transformation strength of brand guides.

      Daphne

    Daphne has two very different product lines. The two group spokesmen invited in 2006 are very good at explaining their style: D18, the S.H.E endorsement of the women's orchestra, caught the hearts of girls with beautiful colors and "cheap fashion"; the singer and actress Rene Liu endorsed D28, attracting elegant white-collar groups with elegant and comfortable style.

    Daphne was first born in a shoe factory in Taiwan. In 1987, Taiwanese Zhang Wenyi and brother-in-law Chen Xianmin founded Yong en international in Hongkong. Later, the two people moved the factory to Putian, Fujian, where the production cost was lower. When they left the warehouse, they realized the retail business opportunities. So the brand of Daphne shoes was born.

    But just going out of stock may not save Daphne. As of the 2019 fiscal year of December 31, 2019, Daphne international core brand store sales fell 20% year-on-year, closing 2288 sales outlets (including 2174 Direct stores) throughout the year. As a result, the women's shoes giant, which opened 6881 sales outlets in 2012, now has only 360 sales outlets for its core brand business.

    Source: BOF Author: Aijing Wang

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