There Are Several Confusing Concepts In Custom-Made Suits.

Last week, Francois Fillon (Fran? OIS Fillon), representing the Republican Party in France's presidential election in 2017, was knocked out of a lace news, claiming that he had unfairly accepted two sets of expensive tailored suits.

As the "20 Frenchmen who will dress most", selected by GQ, Francois Filjungyi is right, "a friend sends me clothes without breaking the law".

Indeed, the scandal only made his campaign worse.

But to call it one hundred percent negative news is too arbitrary, at least in the case of the formal brand Arnys, it not only earn 13 thousand euros (about 9.65 yuan) cheque, but also free national advertising.

When the market of men's tailored suits is becoming more and more crowded, the popularity of celebrities and social hot spots is a reverse propaganda.

Since last year, a large number of luxury brands such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Lanvin, Gucci and Hermes have expanded their customized suit (Bespoke) and semi custom (Made to Measure) services.

I really don't know if it's fortunate that the custom culture is gradually reviving, or should we sigh that the cake is too tempting, because no matter whether it is the London Saville street, the St. Germain street of the old custom house, or the custom-made men's clothing shops of many generations in Milan and Naples, they have not yet been able to distinguish the three hundred and sixty nine, so they feel the invasion of the alien family without any time.

Gucci and Hermes, famous for their leather goods and garments, have added men's suits to semi customized services in the past few years.

The latter opened 144 styles to customers and promised to complete delivery within eight weeks.

For most Western-style tailored workshops, the whole process takes at least 3 months. For example, a few days ago, the new custom workshop opened by Ermenegildo Zegna of Italy family business in Milan, where all the clothes were made by hand, takes a suit as an example. It needs 4 customer visits, 200 processes and 75 working hours to complete, so customers can spend 5000 to 10 thousand euros to enjoy this "slow work".

Previously, the dominant three categories of suits on the market were Ready To Wear, Made to Measure and customization (Bespoke).

Ready-made clothes are sold in factories and manufactured in standard size suits. Custom-made suits are usually tailored to the needs of customers based on simple format and usually take 6-8 weeks.

Usually it can provide a certain choice in fabric, small buttons and stitch colors. Finally, it is custom made suit, which is like the advanced customization in women's clothing. From the neckline to the hem, it comes from all hands, and the guests have the most extensive selection of fabrics, tailoring and detail decoration, and the price is the highest.

Four appointments with custom tailor:

Work with tailors to define the style of the suit, select the fabric and complete the overall measurement.

The master has prepared a customized version of the customer, thus entering the blanks, sewing and until the customers try on them.

The contents of the third reservation are still tried on, and usually there are no blank versions of collar and sleeves, so as to foster strengths and circumvent weaknesses.

After almost three months, customers can finally see the finished products and make final adjustments.

Whether for custom or semi custom service, you have to spend a lot of time and cost in addition to paying thousands of euros for a suit that suits you. The return is exquisite craftsmanship and craftsman service.

"In the final analysis, this is a kind of service."

Zegna CEO Gildo Zegna and women's Wear Daily said: "because so many people can't find their own size garments, the market is actually huge."

R mi Fritsch-Fontanges, Berluti's custom department director, observed that despite the modest volume of custom tailored business, young international customer groups are emerging.

"People are willing to pay for personalization and handwork rather than brand labels."

Another trend he found was to widen the custom boundaries. "Menswear is not only limited to business suits, but also the custom cowboy series."

The core of customizing business is actually experience value.

Soon, however, the old tailored tailor will not be enough.

Six masters who work for Zegna Milan custom workshop must also fly around the world.

All brands try their best to tap talents to enhance their status.

Cerruti 1881's chief creative officer, Jason Basmajian, worked before Saville Street's famous Western-style clothing custom brand Gieves&Hawke, and her last employer was Brioni.

In 2012, the French luxury goods giant LVMH bought Arnys, a French menswear company, with the aim of expanding the business of its famous men's shoe brand Berluti.

In order to avoid being robbed by other brands, Brioni opened a tailoring training institute "The Scuola di Alta Sartoria" in Italy in 1980s to ensure that the torch could be passed.

Then, with the invasion of "outsiders", the boundaries between semi customization and customization become more and more blurred.

The market does become lively, but who can ensure that it is not another cold fireworks?

"I'm worried about the four words of tailored suits."

Angelo Flaccavento, a fashion writer, told the women's Daily that she was skeptical of the traditional clothing tailoring industry, which was made up of ready-made clothes and leather goods. "Insider buyers are willing to be patient enough to wait for a suit to sew."

In order to satisfy the new demand, the fashion brand has made a rapid customization process, and the original charm has been diluted. "

Just like today's heated consumer promotion, most fashion brands admit that once a customer recognised a custom made suit, it would be very difficult to return to the garment, because the latter would always be undesirable here or there.

And vice versa, customizing suits is also a one-way street for brands.

If the brand announces the closure of the business one day, in addition to such a financial crisis, natural disasters and human calamities, it is really hard to have a better reason to let oneself be alone.