Calvin Klein'S Former Creative Director'S Less Sociable Raf Simons Has Returned.

Compared with the famous designers of the same era, Raf Simons neither wants to set up personal social networking accounts, nor accepts large media coverage. This kind of "different social group" seems to drag him away from the industry for a safe distance.

Of course, rather than safety distance, it's better to call it an artist's self-reliance, so as to avoid creative pursuit.

RafSimons, which lingers between commerce and art, obviously has a more self oriented bias.

In most cases, Simons first takes pleasure in himself and then waits for the market to embrace him.

Even the highly artistic egg that is behind its works has been neglected, and has been subjected to different situations.

The activator of art fashion

Not many designers are qualified to be described as "activator". Their works must be enough to promote the development of the entire fashion industry and be studied by practitioners in the coming years.

From Wakubo Rei to Martin Margiela, and then to Helmut Lang, Miuccia Prada, followed by these legendary footsteps, and Raf Simons.

Like the above masters, there is also a strong rejection of art, Simons, and the abandoning of creative freedom without satisfying financial success. This is the main reason for his separation from Calvin Klein.

Simons, who eventually returns to the throne, obviously has absolute dominance. The release of Raf Simons 2019 autumn and winter series is not only a model dress, but also a designer's boundless inspiration.

Looking at the show ground of Shangri-La Hotel, there is no lack of music Chaozhou such as Frank Ocean and Skepta. It also attracts a large number of designers, such as Rick Owens, MarineSerre, Glen Martens, and the popular stylist Lotta Volkova and photographer Willy are also present. Murakami Takashi, a contemporary artist from afar...

The scene is full of seats, written on all face expression, all eagerly look forward to.

The top of the model's armour covered the knight's cap, the simple shirt, the bare overcoat, and the "Heroes", "Losers" and "BurningDown the House" Slogan on the shoulders and trousers, and even the newly extended Greek root "Nomophobic".

Blowout eruption after breaking through the inspiration cage

The next day of Paris fashion week is the most pure Raf Simons element: youth culture, independent rock, anti age modeling and avant-garde movies.

2019 autumn and winter series is more like a designer who has been trapped in Calvin Klein for two and a half years. After a long time of creative release, she once declared "no cry" to the industry.

The elements constantly remind us of our memory of early Raf Simons.

Youth culture (Youth Culture)

Since its entry into the industry in 1995, Raf Simons has firmly established the brand vision with youth culture as its core, and combined with uninhibited rock, street cutting and treason aesthetics to reject and oppose the design of men's wear that is sexy at that time.

"I just want to show the opposite side of the world."

Raf Simons, influenced by Antwerp, is far more darker and more underground than people who spend most of their lives in ordinary life.

Youth Culture is more than just a sleeveless T-shirt, a printed sweater, a hole blazer, a pilot jacket used in the design.

Besides, the designers are very fond of street kids who can smell local bullies across the screen. They are used as models for show and promotional films.

Speaking of which, we have to mention the Isolated Heroes published by Raf Simons in collaboration with photographer David Sims in 1999, and the Raf SimonsRedux created by artists Peter De Porter in 2005.

After more than 20 years of career, Raf Simons continued to observe and observe the real world in his eyes from the perspective of a cult culture addict.

When Mousika's model Luca Lemaire was wearing a black fur coat and leopard gloves, she walked past us in the beat of the music, followed by a thin looking boy who was disdainful of her cool appearance. They were still the familiar young Simons boys.

Independent rock (Indie Rock)

If you want to enumerate the preference of Raf Simons for Joy Division from Manchester, then the number of brands has been inspired by the British band, from 99 years of autumn and winter to "Disorder Incubation Isolation" to "00 years of autumn and winter" Confusion, and to 03 years, autumn and winter "Closer"...

Of course, do not drop the 19 year autumn winter "Diptych" that has just been released.

With the opening of Joy Division in 1980, "Atmosphere" lays a layer of melancholy for the performance. The green models are in the "Set downwith due care"...

Don 't walk away... "

In the shrill lyrics, he walked without expression.

The lingering "don 't walk away insilence" (not leaving in silence) seems to be reading out the declaration of independence of Calvin Klein for the designer, which is very effective in removing us from the scene.

The takeover of the whole half of the field is from the Belgian Post-Punk band Whispering Sons.

This young rising star, in his singing series of new album "Alone" and "Got a Light", to another focus tonight, David Lynch and his play "Shuangfeng" salute.

"Theymove so slowly when they" re afraid...

"This sentence from the TV drama dialogue is quoted in the lyrics, independent rock at this time, and the show's special theme has no boundaries.

Margiela doctrine (Margielaism)

"We need to try new outlines, much more than a printed Hoodie."

Raf Simons is eager for a coup in the new series.

When you finish finishing your memory again, you will have to stretch your shoulders to the right angle and put on the shape of the reverse triangle or rectangle shape.

If asked, this giant shoulder pad design was introduced to the T stage by Martin Margiela, a master of deconstruction of Royal College of Art in Antwerp more than ten years ago.

For the admiration of the great master, even when Raf Simons himself interviewed in the British Independent magazine "DAZED" in 2016, he did not shy away from the fact that the Maison Margiela1990 spring summer series had a profound influence on him at that time.

The Margiela test has its own unique design style, which essentially provides an indispensable source for the Raf Simons, which is looking for a breakthrough version in the new season.

Lynch doctrine (Lynchian)

Perhaps you didn't realize that the pioneer director David Lynch was able to describe the new theme of "Diptych" in Raf Simons, which is a double fold in his spiritual world.

Simons has never concealed his appreciation and admiration for Lynch. This man, whom he called "always with himself", may be the most insane and weird director in the history of American film.

Often used irrational narrative techniques to tell other weird stories and always bring a bit of horror.

Lynch (Lynchian) is the unique label of the movie style that the outside world serves for its "twisted" style. It is also an interview with the Raf Simons show, referring to another derivative of dark movies when it refers to the group and elements that the brand does not want to abandon.

In the autumn and winter series of 2016, Raf Simons has borrowed the classic knitted sweater style in the TV drama "Shuangfeng". It relaxed several times to show a surreal sense of humor.

The show music came from the Angelo Badalamenti composer of the TV series, and the chance to finish the show on the director's birthday is obviously a tribute.

Recalls Simons's first big show after joining Calvin Klein. She also remembered "RoyOrbison Dreams" sung by RoyOrbison in the background music. Isn't it also appropriating the episode in Lynch's movie?

When we deliberate further, the 2019 autumn winter series may be the most Lynch oriented season of Raf Simons.

The staggered vision of the blue red before the show, the gloomy and scattered light, seems to be hinting at what we are.

Yes, that's all based on David Lynch's film "Blue Velvet" in the last century 80.

Immerse the darkness between the dark and the bright, and close the drama of violence and peace. Few people can combine the unique aesthetics and the extreme theme idea with the story movies in the blue velvet as Lynch did.

Simons, who lives in another field, is also a fashion designer who can express his ideas in a similar way.

The clothes on the model T's body are printed with the fragments of the velvet blue and the dark cherry red, the Laura Dern in the blue velvet, the Diane Ladd of mental disorder in my heart wild.

Few Raf Simons, which interspersed catchphrase design details in the garment series, has been used for a long time in the blue velvet pattern and printed on trousers and knees.

The encounter between DIY culture and high fashion is a new element that Raf Simons believes can not be lost in popular culture.

In the design, the long overcoat on the floor and ankle can be seen easily with the D pendant ring, which allows you to hang up your favorite accessories.

Many clues in Lynch's Shuangfeng are also used by Simons for details: burning necklace to half necklace, Double R restaurant cherry pie material truck, and blue roses that help waves.

They all become the decorative pendants hanging on the hanging rings.

Admittedly, the artistry of Lynch's works is undoubtedly condemned and quoted by public opinion, and has become a movie about "position issues".

To some extent, this is similar to that of Raf Simons, who failed to achieve financial success and was challenged by art by CalvinKlein.

If Raf Simons's blue velvet background music interludes "InDreams", in the current fashion trend, will the designer draw the circumference of her circle as a center, can she get the deserved praise, or will she lose her choice like the Helmut Lang, MartinMargiela and so on? Only time can give us the answer.