One Person, One Edition Of Advanced Custom Garments.

In the 4 floor of Beijing Red Capital Group (hereinafter referred to as red capital), an open studio, which bears the task of studying the entire company's men's clothing version.

The helmsman of this studio is Cai Jinchang.

He entered the red capital work in 1979. After two years of apprenticeship, he devoted all his energies to the research and development of clothing version and technology.

Advanced customization adheres to "one person, one edition"

The R & D center is a young department in Hongdu. It has just turned four this year.

Although they are called "design and research and development", they have a small workshop on the third floor.

Because the research process can not be imagined, if there is a need to adjust the production process, Cai Jinchang will carry out a small range of experiments in this workshop, and then mature to the large production workshop.

Appropriate

The need for tens of millions of experience accumulation, Cai Jinchang told reporters that they accept the clothing custom, strictly enforce the "one person, one edition".

At present, Cai Jinchang mainly focuses on advanced customization.

Well, a set of

What is the complicated process of the birth of men's clothing?

Volume and size data will be stored in the computer and then pmitted to the cutting machine by computer.

Making a plate is a key step.

When we do this step, we should use the existing version to set up, adjust according to the customer's shape, save time and effort, but this can't always meet the customers' requirements. We are one person, one edition.

Although the procedure is complicated, such insistence is to make the customization mode the best.

Cai Jinchang said customization has custom rules.

A garment needs to be done manually and formally done.

The clothing Technician first sews the semi-finished products with hand needles, tries them on for size, tries them out, and adjusts the parts that need to be adjusted before starting production.

Although the scale of the workshop is not large, it is always busy.

At present, Cai Jinchang has more than 100 orders of clothing on hand.

July and August is the off-season of clothing production, and almost every other time he maintains such intensity.

Cai Jinchang's studio has more than 30 cadets, all of whom are clothing majors, with high overall quality and strong execution.

He said that many children who dress today are more willing to be designers, but design needs unique inspiration. Designers are few, and good designers are less.

For him, he is more comfortable in his craft. He also hopes that more people can attach importance to the research and development of technology.

This year's graduation season, he plans to expand the team size to 50 people.

The first domestic production of tuxedo for groups

As early as the 80s of last century, Cai Jinchang demonstrated the strength of the red capital artisans.

At that time, the orchestra performed basically in suits.

Once, when the central Orchestra went abroad to perform, they put on a tuxedo and found the red capital.

When Cai Jinchanggang received the task, he did not fully grasp it.

"We have some foundation, but this variety is not very familiar."

In order to make this batch of swallowtail clothes faster and better, Cai Jinchang found his predecessor, Tian Tong master, who instructed him to do one.

After that, Cai Jinchang began to make his own version and command the whole production.

Finally, the central orchestra was very satisfied with the batch of tuxedo.

This is also the first domestic production of tuxedo for the orchestra after the reform and opening up.

After a long time, there was a need for Beijing orchestras to perform.

You will find Cai Jinchang.

In 1990, on the eve of the Asian Games in Beijing, Hongdu was responsible for the assembly of referees from all over the world.

Without seeing me or having my own size, Cai Jinchang and his colleagues completed thousands of sets.

Production.

When the referee arrived in Beijing, the members of Hongdu sub group sent their clothes to their hands. If the size of the fitting was not suitable, they immediately returned the data to Cai Jinchang. Cai Jinchang immediately took his colleagues to do the edition and production.

Time is pressing. Every garment must be made within 8 hours, and hundreds of people in the workshop are ready to run.

Cai Jinchang said there was no concept of rest at that time.

"This is an important task. I was very young at that time, so although I had a lot of work, I felt very tired instead of feeling tired."

In 2013, Cai Jinchang led the Hongdu design and Research Center's "Shengshi national costume" to win the gold award of the China fashion brand competition.

"Shengguo Costume" is preserved.

On the basis of traditional elements, innovation has been made in terms of design, material selection, technology and so on. It has narrowed the waist, sleeve type, smooth and beautiful shape, and fit for body cultivation, which is more suitable for modern people to wear.

Excipients have also made some adjustments, focusing on the combination of wearing comfort and fashion, designing and producing soft collars with different colored stripes, giving people a sense of brightness.

The study of edition focuses on keeping pace with the times.

Men's clothing is different from women's wear, and the style is relatively simple.

Ordinary people may pay little attention.

Version changes.

But for years of research

For Cai Jinchang, in just a few decades, men's fashion has gone several rounds.

"The innovation of clothing is based on the popularity of the market.

Men's clothing is not a big change in a year, but there will be slight changes. When you look back a few years, you will see that the change is very obvious.

Cai Jinchang said that just after the reform and opening up, men's clothing was relatively short and thick, and the version was not very beautiful, especially compared with foreign countries.

Custom-made guests then.

Generally, they should wear thick clothes. Even if they try to wear clothes in summer, they will wear sweaters and trousers. Otherwise, they will get different when they wear winter.

Now, with the change of dress habits and concepts, the version is even thinner.

In 80s, suits were wide, narrow, wide shoulders, wide barbed heads and low necklines. The width of the barge even reached 10 centimeters.

In 90s, double breasted and one button were popular.

"Take the barge as an example. When you reach the limit, you must go back.

Now, our suits are normally 6.5-7.5 centimeters, but to a certain extent it will go back.

Middle-aged people may know that they used to be like this, and now they are back, but for young people, this is the most fashionable.

There are always young people in every era.

In 2010, Cai Jinchang launched the red capital after a long period of accumulation and research.

The new edition is divided into A (normal body), B (micro fat body), C (belly body), D (big belly body), and the four body shape has 193 specifications.

The new version covers more body sizes and is more suitable for single volume single cut odd jobs and group assembly.

From the appearance, the new type of lines are fluent and full, and the waist is clear. The B, C and D bodies not only reflect the waist from the side and the rear, but also allow enough belly girth to make the overall shape more suitable for special body and advanced customization.

In addition, some people often exercise, chest muscle is higher, some people shoulder shoulder, shoulder shoulder, and so on, these special body shape, can be satisfied.

On the specific data, the length of clothing is 1 centimeters, and the weight is 2 centimeters.

After a long period of accumulation, there are hundreds of versions of Cai Jinchang's computer, and they are still being added and improved.

"If I find that a part of the adjustment will be better, all versions should be adjusted accordingly.

It can not be said that it has been studied, because it will never end.