Yi Changhai: Does Cowboy Clothing'S Production And Consumption Really Cause Such A Bad Result To The Environment?

The "three high" problems exist in the industry, that is, high pollution, high emission and high labor intensity.

In order to achieve sustainable development of jeans industry in our country, we must strive to reduce environmental pollution through cleaner production, solve the labor intensive problem with intelligent production, set up our own brand and improve the added value of products.

As a branch of the apparel industry, which has the longest production process chain and the largest consumption, the process of jeans garment covers fiber, yarn, dyeing, and so on.

Clothing, washing water and listing the entire textile and garment production chain.

Some time ago, an article entitled "every pair of jeans you wear is destroying our future" has caused a great stir among the public.

Will the production and consumption of jeans produce such a bad result for the environment? What kind of level is the domestic cowboy scientific research technology and production status at present? It has caused widespread concern inside and outside the industry.

A few days ago, the reporter visited the domestic cowboy costume research expert, Wuhan.

Yi Changhai, director of the University jeans garment engineering research center, and his scientific research team, have an in-depth understanding of the development status and development problems of the jeans industry.

Yi Changhai, director of jeans garment research and director of Wuhan Textile University cowboy fashion Engineering Technology Research Center

The problem of "three high" should not be neglected.

Reporter: what is the current development of jeans industry in China?

Yi Changhai: China is the largest producer of jeans and the biggest consumer of jeans in the world.

As far as the industry is concerned, there are three high problems in the jeans industry in China, that is, high pollution, high emission and high labor intensity.

In order to achieve sustainable development of jeans in China, 3 key points must be solved: cleaner production, environmental pollution reduction, intelligent production to solve labor intensive problems, self brand building and product added value.

That is to say, digitalization, information technology, high efficiency, environmental protection and ecological development are the trend of jeans industry in China.

As far as production scale is concerned, Shandong, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Guangdong and other coastal provinces are the gathering place of jeans industry in China. The total output accounts for over 90% of the whole country.

Especially in the Guangdong area, it has gathered 4 big cowboy industrial clusters in China. There are more than 4000 denim enterprises in Xintang, Zengcheng, more than 2300 cowboy enterprises in Foshan, and 2000 denim enterprises in Zhongshan, Tai Chung and Kaiping three ports respectively.

However, despite the emergence of a large number of leisure and tide denim garment manufacturers in recent years, most of the foreign trade enterprises of cowboy clothing enterprises in China are mainly processing products, but the majority of the profits in the supply chain have been exported to foreign countries because of their lack of brand names.

Reporter: what do you think is the biggest problem in the development of jeans industry?

Yi Changhai: lack of talent is the biggest problem in the development of jeans industry.

Jeans industry is a highly professional industry. It takes at least 3-5 years to train a professional person.

Up to now, there is no specialized cowboy specialty at home and abroad, and there is no systematic professional textbook. Most of the professional knowledge of the industry is accumulated over the years.

For example, the washing process is the most important part of jeans garment processing. The added value of washing links accounts for 40%~50% of the total value of jeans.

However, although the average salary of the washing workers in the domestic and overseas industries is higher, the overall cultural level of the washing workers is generally low, and they are all "mentoring" mode, which seriously lacks theoretical support.

Besides, the uneven level of individual professional quality of cowboy managers has also become a major problem hindering the development of the industry.

Most business managers are motivated to improve their performance and productivity through new projects. However, once a specific product plan and project plan are involved, many people will feel that they are not willing to take care of themselves.

Pollution control starts from the beginning, personalized custom delivers culture

Reporter: relying on the Hubei cowboy clothing engineering and technology research center established by Wuhan Textile University as the only provincial-level scientific research platform in the field of jeans clothing in China, what kind of scientific research is it mainly engaged in?

Yi Changhai: the cowboy research team of the research center is the only doctoral team engaged in the research of cowboy whole industry chain. The research focuses on biology, computer, material, art, film and many other specialties.

Of the more than 40 patents declared by the team, 23 have been authorized.

At present, researchers mainly focus on solving the common key technologies of fashion and creative engineering research and development, functional jeans development, and jeans comfort and health research.

Traditional denim clothing requires physical, chemical or biological treatment, which will cause a certain amount of sewage discharge.

To solve this problem, we must solve the problem of sewage from the source by means of advanced engineering technology research and development, using anhydrous and less water technologies.

At the same time, the use of pure cotton, non cotton biomass fiber and other new fibers to develop functional denim fabrics, the integration of market elements into the development of denim fabrics, the "fashion, technology, culture" three integrated into one, the development of moisture absorption, sweat, oil, waterproof, anti fouling, anti radiation performance of smart wearable jeans wear is a major trend of the industry in the future.

In addition, the research on the comfort and health of denim fabrics has attracted wide attention from professionals both at home and abroad.

Any contact between clothes and skin will form a micro space. The micro ecological balance formed by the surface material of the human body and the chemical substances on the surface of the clothes can not be destroyed.

More than cowboy clothing industry, this is an important research direction ignored by the whole textile industry.

Through reverse thinking, the research team found out the clothing production technology that had no harm to the human body.

Therefore, the research center and the Ministry of health, CDC and other 8 units jointly formulated the first antibacterial textile standard applicable to all underwear in China.

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Reporter: what are the recent research priorities of the research center?

Yi Changhai: at present, the research focus of the research center is mainly concentrated on 3 aspects.

To achieve the production of denim clothing without water or water.

The water consumption of cowboy processing is quite large. The environmental pollution problem caused by wastewater discharge can not be ignored.

Therefore, from the source of production to solve the problem of high emissions and high pollution in the jeans industry is the most concerned topic in the industry.

At present, the scientific research team has used laser, ozone and digital processing technology to pform the traditional technology, and has been able to achieve "micro water production".

In addition, the use of digital processing technology instead of hand washing and sandblasting in traditional production can greatly shorten the production process of jeans.

If these technologies are industrialized, they will have great positive significance for protecting the environment and reducing employment.

Long distance customization and rapid manufacturing of jeans.

Through the development of the cowboy space system software developed by the team and research institutes in Hongkong, Korea and other places, consumers can directly scan the computer or mobile terminal equipment cameras, and calculate the three sides of the background. Then, according to the fabrics, colors, prints, styles and so on provided by the system, the cowboy dress can be designed by itself, and the designer can also provide remote guidance to meet the individual needs to the maximum extent and enhance the user experience.

The pparency of the whole procedure makes it possible for every consumer to be a designer.

The system can complete the order in 48 hours, and environmental protection is free from pollution.

At present, the project has been completed 70%, and is expected to be completed in October.

Jeans dyeing technology needs to be improved.

The key to denim dyeing is yarn dyeing, but conventional chemical yarn dyeing will cause some environmental pollution, which is not in line with the development requirements of jeans production.

Therefore, the team has tried to solve this problem by using an electrolytic reduction dyeing method with high safety and low cost.

At present, the electro reduction yarn dyeing method is in the laboratory test stage, and has made some progress.

Reporter: what is the direction of your work with the research team in the next stage?

Yi Changhai: shortage of talents is an important problem that restricts the development of jeans industry.

Therefore, I hope to cultivate a number of qualified personnel for the industry through our own strength.

In the near future, I am thinking of organizing front-line workers engaged in jeans production in the industry and organizing them to the Research Center for a half month free professional training.

Besides, I hope to set up a cowboy Museum in China and set up an international cowboy Festival.

China is the largest consumer of jeans in the world, and naturally it should have the voice of the cowboy industry.

Jeans are not only a cause, but also a consumption culture. Such a culture needs to be disseminated.