Zhang Zhaoda: Chinese Clothing Has Not Jumped Out Of The Pattern Of Combination Of Squares And Circles.

What is the most appropriate expression of Chinese design? This is what Zhang Zhaoda, a Chinese fashion designer, has been thinking about.

"I don't like to express Chinese design with buttons, dragons, Phoenix and other symbolic elements with strong oriental color. This way of expression is too straightforward and lacks texture."

In Zhang Zhaoda's view, the use of strong oriental elements has also imprisoned the international image of Chinese design to some extent.

"Many Westerners see such a Chinese design, because they do not understand traditional Chinese culture, they use a more bad language and their way to Chinese people."

"In fact, Chinese clothing has not been out of the pattern of" square and round combination "all along.

Zhang Zhaoda told reporters that whether it was ancient Chinese official uniform, folk costume or modern Chinese tunic suit, it was evolved from Imperial clothing according to the design principle of the combination of square and circle.

"This imperial style of design represents the worship of rights, not good-looking, and the pattern is rigid and not free, and it is also difficult to meet the dress requirements of modern people."

In this regard, Zhang Zhaoda hopes to break this old design thinking, and seek the inspiration and ideas of new China's design from the spirit of Oriental culture.

"The Eastern spirit stresses the unity of heaven and man, which is spiritual.

Therefore, I hope to find inspiration from the book of changes, and use the way of line and surface reasoning to do Oriental design.

Zhang Zhaoda said.

Zhang Zhaoda gave himself 10 years to study the book of changes.

But it is not easy to let the spirit go to the floor and make the design enjoyable. Besides, this spirit is also known as the book of changes in Chinese traditional culture.

In the end, Zhang Zhaoda abandoned this spiritual exploration and decided to find a breakthrough from the space.

This time, Zhang Zhaoda selected geomantic omen.

"Feng Shui recorded a large number of people and space relationship, so I spent a long time hoping to find inspiration from the research space to express the Oriental spirit, but Feng Shui was too rich and heavy, and I finally chose to give up."

Although the first two design explorations did not seem successful, Zhang Zhaoda did not feel sorry.

He believes that when you have time and energy, you can make some design explorations, but you can make designers more clear about future development.

"Clothing is the closest thing to life, so we must pay special attention to clothing."

Zhang Zhaoda told reporters that China's clothing system believes that clothing is an aesthetic concept, while different clothing materials belong to the physical level. Therefore, in order to better express the spirit of Chinese design, we need to put clothes on the spiritual level.

But where to start? Designers do not design 90% of the time.

"Clothing design has always followed the principles of western design, and Western clothing talents have made garments almost perfect in design, industry and commerce.

I am a nationalist. I have been making clothes for decades. I have been playing in accordance with Western rules, but no matter how we play, we are making clothes for others, so I am looking for new entry points to establish the system of Chinese clothing and establish the right to speak in Chinese design.

Zhang Zhaoda said.

From the spiritual level to express Chinese design, Zhang Zhaoda's own background experience, so that he has more advantages than half of the designers.

In addition to the identity of the fashion designer, Zhang Zhaoda has another very prominent label -- a famous Chinese painter.

Painting from the primary school, painting from elementary school, 22 years old, let Zhang Zhaoda early on the reputation and financial resources to catch up with most designers, which allows him to design more than the independent designer who struggled on the line of life and death a "willful".

"All the time, the goal I set for myself is to be top.

。

When making my own brand MARK CHEUNG, I try to choose internationally famous suppliers.

At that time, one of my shirts sold for 30 thousand yuan, and I sold 810 thousand yuan of fur. "

Zhang Zhaoda said.

Money and leisure make Zhang Zhaoda more relaxed in design, but from the entire clothing industry, there are not many designers who can do this.

"Many Chinese designers are not professional enough in theory, and most of the 90% people do things that are not related to design, such as store design, business management, investment seeking, training franchisees, etc., and even I can not fully guarantee that the main time and effort should be invested in the design.

Therefore, our Chinese designers only know a little about design and are not professional.

Zhang Zhaoda said that this does not meet the requirements of designers in the future market.

"Now the clothing industry needs talents, but professionals.

Our garment industry must be professionally implemented in all links, so that we can provide the soil for designers.

As far as China's clothing industry is concerned, it is necessary to promote the professionalization of the industry and train designers. Zhang Zhaoda believes that Chinese clothing lacks an "oligarch".

"From the perspective of the development of the world garment industry, it is easy to see whether it is

Or the brand of parity, which is dominated by large international groups.

There are many luxury brands, but they are mainly in the hands of the three luxury goods groups.

Zhang Zhaoda told reporters that the biggest advantage of the big oligarchs in controlling the clothing industry is that they can make use of the advantages of raw materials and other industrial chain resources, channels, capital and brand management experience to promote the reshaping and specialization of resources in every aspect of the garment industry.

Clothing is a systematic project, not a shelf art. Relying on such oligopoly, it also enables more designers to have a platform to display their talents.

"Oligarchy has abundant financial resources and resources to enable designers to do the design they want, and these rich experience in brand operation has greatly improved the possibility of designers' success."

Zhang Zhaoda said.

In this regard, China is in a deep pition period, and obviously needs to launch its own clothing oligarchy group in the following industrial pformation, resource integration and advantage reorganization.

"China will definitely emerge its own clothing oligarchy group. These big groups can build a brand new garment industry format in China through resource integration."

Zhang Zhaoda firmly believes that China will have its own clothing oligarchy group, and the formation of oligarchic pattern will also ensure the steady development of China's garment industry in the past 50~60 years.

Relying on such oligarchs will increase young independence now.

Jump off is the embarrassing pattern of money being exhausted, focusing on design to increase chances of success.

"Many of our Chinese designers are no longer dreaming of money because they are hard pressed. The hard-earned people will not invest money in a thing that can not see clearly in the future. People who do not dream will not give money to hope."

Zhang Zhaoda said.

But from a certain level, the garment industry, which is a combination of foundation and art, is itself a dream project.