Make Clothing Design Meet The Needs Of Individuality Accurately

How does the same clothes show different effects on different people? How do they interact with each other? How to make clothing design meet the individual needs accurately? What is the answer to the digitization of clothing?

Here world

Xiaobian of the network to introduce Victor: let dress design more scientific.

The effect of buying clothes and wearing clothes on Taobao is often far from the online picture display.

The contrast between seller show and Buyer show has become a laughing stock in WeChat's circle of friends.

Professor Victor Yevgenyevich Kuzmichev and his Chinese team are doing research on clothing digitalization, trying to find answers.

The black bottom yellow brown pattern shirt and black body trousers, the present Victor looks fashionable and competent.

He is a 60 year old academician of the Russian Academy of natural sciences and a professor at the National Textile University of Ivanovo.

As a senior expert in the field of costume science and art, Victor was appointed professor of Wuhan Textile University in 2002.

In 2012, he became one of the second foreign experts to be selected in China's "1000 person program".

New vision for teachers and students

Looking back at more than 10 years of work experience at Wuhan Textile University's clothing Institute, Victor first talked about training a group of young students in the field of clothing science.

In 2002, when Victor arrived in the clothing Institute, there was only undergraduate education. With his help, he began to recruit graduate students in design and other fields in 2004.

"There are only 7 students in the first session, and now the number of masters is over 100, which is a big change."

While focusing on cultivating students, Victor has also been relieved to change some people's ideas about fashion design.

"Traditional costume design is a kind of imaginative thinking, paying more attention to art and aesthetics. The idea of combining design art with costume science advocated by Victor brings a new perspective to teachers and students."

Shang Gang, Secretary of the Wuhan Textile University, said.

Take women's clothing as an example, the same size of a woman is 84 cm wearing the same clothes, but feel differently.

This is because some women have a more plump front, while some women are more generous in their backs, so their comfort and effectiveness will be different.

How to tailor more accurately? Victor and his team are developing a non-contact 3D body measurement system.

Ye Hongguang, a professor of clothing College of Wuhan Textile University, is one of Victor's team members.

He told ScienceDaily daily that the contactless 3D body measurement system is based on optical measurement and uses visual equipment to capture the shape of the object, and then the system software is used to extract the scanning data.

At the same time of accuracy, speed and consistency, three-dimensional human body measurement can also effectively measure human morphology and curve characteristics which are difficult to be measured by traditional methods.

A person stands in front of the 3D body scanner, extending his arms. His height, weight and weight, and the size of all parts of his body are accurately measured by the machine and recorded in the computer.

According to the measured data, you can find the appropriate version of his clothing in the human body database, or tailor his size according to his size.

"Everyone has his own unique size (size). In the next few years, people will scan their size before they buy clothes on the Internet," said Li Yu, deputy director of science and Technology Department of Wuhan Textile University.

The establishment and research of clothing human body database is another focus of Victor's work.

In the era of big data, it is self-evident that the collection of human data is of great importance to clothing design and manufacture, and to determine the clothing version.

Victor said, "the version is bad. There is no market for clothes that don't fit well. We are trying to improve the Chinese body classification standard."

Looking for fashion design inspiration from traditional textile culture

Hong'an big cloth, Huangmei Cross Stitch...

These traditional handicraft skills in Hubei are also becoming less familiar with the locals, but in Victor's eyes, they are all treasures.

Speaking of the traditional manual textile technology is facing or will be lost, Victor first sighed, "not only China, the whole world is facing the same difficult problem".

Immediately afterwards, he used 3 "save" (protection) to emphasize the importance of protecting the traditional manual textile technology now and in the future.

From the beginning to the Wuhan Textile University, Victor has been strongly advocating the establishment of a professional museum to protect folk hand-made textile skills.

Today, Hong'an's big cloth and Huangmei cross stitch have exclusive exhibition rooms at Wuhan Textile University.

Ye Hongguang said that the heritage of traditional handicraft weaving skills to the original farming civilization, to dock modern aesthetic, into the modern society has some difficulty, "after all, there is a market, there is a market, can be inherited."

In order to make the traditional hand weaving skills "live", Victor and his team members made a lot of efforts.

Take the Hong'an cloth as an example, the air permeability of the cloth is very good, but the handle is rough. In order to improve the feel of the cloth, they improve the yarn from the source, and the cloth of the soft yarn is exquisite.

For example, the traditional handicraft inheritors will "pick, embroider, and weave", but do not know how to match colors to suit modern aesthetics. Victor will guide from the perspective of fashion design.

Victor, who loves traditional textile culture, often explores fashion inspiration from traditional elements.

"Some traditional elements may not be known how to use them now, but maybe 5 to 10 years later it will become a fashion. No one knows exactly which culture will affect future trends."

Victor's tradition

Cultural affection also deeply affects his students.

Zhang Ni is a member of Victor's first graduate student enrolled in Wuhan Textile University.

Today, Zhang Ni, a young teacher at Wuhan Textile University, often tells them to absorb nutrients from traditional culture when guiding their students.

In May this year, Zhang Ni's student Peng Pingping, Frozen Morning, won the silver award and the corporate attention award at the Voronezh international youth clothing design competition.

This work uses elements of Chinese traditional paper-cut art, and uses laser laser engraving techniques to carve out "window flowers" with "Fu" characters on the skirts.

Rigorous study, workaholic, and wandering around Hanzheng Street in leisure time

In Wuhan Textile University, Victor has another label, that is, the "workaholic" of rigorous scholarship.

Perhaps it is because of the only six months of the big job every year that Victor cherishes his time here.

He usually starts at 6 in the morning and sometimes works late into the night.

Cheng Zhe, 26, is a graduate student under the guidance of Victor.

"Teacher Victor spends most of his time in school. Sometimes we want to take him out for a walk. He will first ask how far away from school. He will consider 50 meters, and 100 meters will be far away."

Victor's rigorous scholarship impressed Cheng Zhe deeply.

Men's underwear is one of the research directions of Cheng Zhe. There are relatively few studies on men's underwear at home and abroad.

At the request of Victor, Cheng took 2 years to collect samples and data, and studied the design, structure and comfort of men's underwear.

Pointing to the academic poster on the wall of the laboratory, Cheng zhe laughed. "People will use their eyes to see if it is neat, and Victor will use a ruler to measure it to see if it is crooked."

Victor, a meticulous work maniac, is the most visited place in Wuhan in his spare time. That is Hanzheng Street.

However, the purpose of his shopping is not "simple".

Hanzheng Street is the largest small commodity distribution center in Central China. It has a large scale of clothing wholesale market.

Victor went to Hanzheng Street to see all kinds of trends.

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"The design you saw in Paris fashion week a month ago can see the same styles of clothing in Hanzheng Street at the moment. The speed of fashion spreading is amazing."

Victor said.