Designer Deciphering APEC Chinese Clothing

In December 2013, Zhang Zhifeng, founder and art director of NE TIGER brand, received an invitation letter from the leading group of Beijing APEC conference in 2014, inviting him to participate in the design and production of APEC leaders and ladies' clothing in 2014.

Like Zhang Zhifeng, there were 71 companies, 259 designers and 18 universities from all over the country.

Since February 2014, 455 design manuscripts from all over the country have been collected in the concrete implementation of Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology.

Including the 8 top designers in the fashion design industry, 21 top ten designers in China and 16 famous art and design universities, they have come up with their own careful design.

Then, after more than 10 months of brainstorming, polishing and Seiko production, with the welcome dinner at the 2014 Beijing APEC conference, 21 leaders and ladies of the economy dressed up in the new Chinese dress.

Gathering the strongest design power

From February to September, 455 design manuscripts accepted the discerning eyes of experts in the expert review group without exception.

In March 8th, the first round of "blind trial" began, no matter how many famous designers, the names were all hidden, all design draft as the criterion.

Landscape, flowers, moire, silk, brocade, pair of buttons, cardigan...

Chinese traditional elements flash high frequency, and 60 design manuscripts stand out.

After many discussions and reviews, the 35 groups of samples were selected for further design.

What kind of clothing can represent the new image of the Chinese people in order to interpret the idea that China most wants to convey to the world?

In the end, Fei Xiaotong, the famous sociologist, summed up the 16 words "motto" in December 1990, "beauty of every beauty, beauty of beauty, beauty and harmony, and Great Harmony".

NE TIGER participated in the design and production of APEC's clothing.

In an interview with our newspaper reporter, Zhang Zhifeng described the tortuous process of being invited to participate in the completion of the garments. "First, we participated in the review. We assembled all the elite designers of the brand, and designed more than 100 sets of manuscripts for men's wear, women's wear, banquet and conference assembly.

After a series of layers of screening, nearly 100 people were gathered together to form a team of print masters, handcrafted teachers and embroidered mother groups.

After adjustment by experts and leaders, we have adjusted and adjusted several times. Finally, we have completed the design and production of 4 sets of ladies' clothing and all male and female pajamas. "

Style is the first consideration of costume design. It is a great contribution to the APEC fashion design. It is a great number of excellent professors from Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, Chu Yan, the top ten fashion designer in China. At the beginning of the design, it also puzzled the clothing styles. "My practice is to do more, so the selection rate is even higher."

We made four series.

One is the series of collar and neck, which is familiar to all. The second is the set of collar, the last one, the last one, and the other.

After the design is the choice of patterns and colors.

Chu Yan presented only the red sample of the Imperial Palace at first. However, the opinions given by the expert jury and leaders were at least 4-5 colors to choose from, and then added deep purple, blue, golden brown and black brown to highlight the traditional Chinese aesthetic taste.

On the selection of fabrics, the appraisal scheme almost covers the most exquisite fabrics such as brocade and silk, but the organizers must be silk fabrics, and the brocade must have traditional Chinese patterns, which should not be too luxurious at last.

"We looked for the three famous brocade in China, and finally set up the song brocade in Suzhou because it has the characteristics of matte light, but it is not flashy and expensive, but it is very consistent with the Chinese people's inner spirit."

Chu Yan said.

It is understood that the designers made a total of 1015 design items including conference clothes and dinner clothes, and finally decided the design scheme of standing collar, shoulder sleeve, coat and collar.

The whole set of APEC clothing lasted from 10 months to more than a month, but the fabric selection was not finalized until September.

After fierce competition, Wujiang Dingsheng silk Co., Ltd. won the competition from more than 500 competitors and was responsible for the production of core fabrics.

The most dazzling Chinese style

The APEC clothing, also known as "new suit".

According to the relevant personages, its root is "Zhong" and its soul is "ritual". Its shape is "new", and these three are called "new suits".

Zhang Zhifeng told reporters that as early as the beginning of the design, the organizers explicitly demanded that "new Chinese dress" should not be restricted to a certain Dynasty, but should integrate the elements of Chinese clothing to form a harmonious atmosphere of Chinese temperament and customs.

From the perspective of "new suit", Chinese style can be seen. No matter from style, pattern, material or technology, it can be found from the ancient times. It can find the root of Chinese dress culture: the collar and collar appeared in the Ming Dynasty and prevailed in the Qing Dynasty. The cardigan began in the Shang Dynasty and prevailed in the Tang and Song dynasties. The shoulder sleeve was the classic structure of Chinese clothing (13.91, -0.05, -0.36%).

Song brocade began in the Song Dynasty and belonged to world-class intangible heritage. Zhang Satin began in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties.

The scarlet veins of the sea and the Song Dynasty were used for costumes. The ten thousand character pattern was a traditional eight treasure pattern. It could be traced back to the Neolithic age and was commonly used in the Han Dynasty.

As for the Imperial Palace red, indigo and other heavy and generous fabric color, it also comes from the traditional dress hue.

The "shoulder sleeve" shows the sky and the place, as well as the gentle and elegant temperament of the Chinese.

The design of cardigan is even more innovative.

These traditional cultural elements have been innovated and used to create the freedom and elegance of cardigan and inner echo.

Chu Yan, one of the leaders of the male leaders, said, "the collar collar is the fashion style of China since the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It opened earlier. As early as the Shang and Zhou dynasties, there were cardigan clothes. This time, they were combined together, and it was also shown by thousands of years of Chinese culture on the same dress."

In the deepening design, all kinds of animals, flowers and patterns were eliminated. They were finally considered to be the best ones to convey the "river and river cliffs" with friends coming from afar.

In ancient China, the sea and river cliffs symbolizes longevity and prosperity. They often appear on porcelain, lacquerware, furniture and clothing.

In a dream of Red Mansions, there is "Wang Shirong on the head of North Jing wearing a pure white hair tassel silver wing King cap, wearing the Jiangya sea Five Dragons Dragon white robe, and the jade jade red belt" description.

The APEC garment was simplified and innovating in order to convey the beautiful meaning of the 21 economies.

What makes the public feel the most unusual is that the male leader's clothes are also covered with a button less two button.

According to reporters, this structure comes from China's "back son", also known as "quilt".

The back has no buttons on the back. It looks very casual.

In the Song Dynasty, both men and women wore their backs. They were regarded as the self portraits of Song Hui Zun.

Traditionally, the back is usually extended to the lower knee or ankle, and this time APEC clothing shortens it to coat.

In the dress of the head of the state, the treasure flower of the Tang Dynasty style, the peony peony and the delightful and refined daffodils, all symbolize auspicious blessings in Chinese traditional culture.

"Madam's Chinese dress is two pieces inside and outside, the coat is the Ming Style Double Neck style, lined with Qing Dynasty collar collar dress style.

The process uses the world-famous Suzhou embroidery and Zhang satin, and symbolizes the blue color of the ocean and the gentian violet, which symbolizes the purple and the East. It is supplemented by the lilac color, crimson red, Tibetan blue and lotus root powder, which symbolizes luck and auspicious. It represents the APEC economies in the Pacific as a link, good neighborly friendship and win-win cooperation.

Zhang Zhifeng explained the design concept of the wife of the Fuhrer to reporters.

The national etiquette pajamas are Seiko, and NE. TIGER specially designed and dyed 40M silk and heavy satin fabrics. The environment friendly skin is also conducive to sleep.

"Hand-made Suzhou embroidery technology will peony, vase, Ruyi" needle on silk, men's meaning "peace and good intentions," the female meaning "only peony true colors", which shows the Chinese culture of "culture is precious."

The best in the new suit

Song brocade, Su embroidery, buckle, Xuan paper...

In the "new suit", there are various hidden skills.

The "new suit" is the most worth mentioning, the first to study the thick swastika jacquard song brocade fabric.

Song brocade ranks first among the three famous brocade in China, including Shu Brocade and cloud brocade. It has both plain and elegant features, but also shows exquisite and exquisite traditional patterns. It is very consistent with APEC's low-key and restrained introvert.

But the brocade brocade technology is complex, and its output is not high. It used to be used for painting and decoration.

Wu Jianhua, chairman of Wujiang Dingsheng silk Co., Ltd., said: "the traditional song brocade is made by hand, and a person is weaving 6 meters at most every month."

Song brocade fabrics are generally light and light. During the APEC meeting, Beijing was already in the early winter. For this reason, the production side made a technological innovation for song brocade, adding a small amount of wool fiber into the weaving process, and mixing 5 kinds of yarns of different depths to make it more elegant, warm and bright.

Song brocade is the only three famous brocade that can be made by computer jacquard, so the cost is reduced.

Therefore, song brocade is expected to enter ordinary people's homes.

"If consumers are interested in APEC clothing, private customization can be made."

Wu Jianhua said, "now leaders of various economies have become models of our song brocade costume. Song brocade has successfully revived and embarked on the world stage. This shows that the conservation of non heritage is the best."

APEC the Chinese dress is exquisite and the packaging is not ambiguous.

APEC leaders and ladies received clothing bags made of Xuan paper and decorated with APEC conference LOGO embroidery and hand-made word loop buckle, which implies "multiple beautiful, open and inclusive".

After the completion of the design, the APEC clothing has entered the production process, but the time left to the producer is only 1 months.

For this reason, whether Zhang Zhifeng or Wu Jianhua, who produced customized song brocade, and the Ordos (8.80, -0.20, -2.22%) who took the scarf and shawl, all worked hard to work overtime.

"Short time and heavy task" is Zhang Zhifeng's summary of the production task, because advanced customization is different from industrialized garment production.

Moreover, it was not until October 15th that NE TIGER received the size of the dress of the 9 leaders' wives. The last garment size was not received until 5:45 p.m. on October 27th.

"In Australia, Pakistan, Brunei, Kampuchea, the leaders of the 4 countries have not received the size of their wives' clothing. We have analyzed and estimated the sizes from the photos and videos with the help of rich customization experience and ergonomics. We have prepared 8 pieces of two pieces for each of us, and finally we are in the final stages.