Hangzhou Women's Wear Brand Enters The Era Of Imposition
A dress, dressed in models, is all kinds of enchanting and sexy, and all kinds of heroic force are pressing. If you often wash your clothes online, you must have such a painful experience. At that time, when the Taobao bought a dress and put on the body, the elder brother wanted to cry.
Now, though your figure may not be as standard as a model, the clothes on the models can be similar to you and comfortable. that is because Hangzhou Many women start to enter the era of imposition. The core technology of clothing is made. The clothes designed make the fat look thin, and the skinny ones are more slender.
The previous style is now made up. Hangzhou women's wear is becoming more and more exquisite.
In the clothing industry, there is a theory called "copy edition", which refers to the design of small brand clothing and the design of the domestic brand. Many fashion designers come to the mall and design inspiration. Some people are more direct, buy several good sales styles from the mall, come back and split them into pieces, find similar fabrics and copy them simply, and become their own models. So, you go around and find that many brands of clothes are almost the same.
But now, many women in Hangzhou are beginning to enter the era of imposition.
"Hua Danny" has put forward the concept of "master of self-cultivation". The so-called "masters of self-cultivation" is the same clothes, through the stereoscopic version of clothing, so that tightness can be achieved. After wearing a standard body, the body is slightly more physically deficient, and the figure is corrected by the shape and proportion.
"Before the fashion industry generally style, but now found Edition type It's the core technology of a garment. Xia Guoying, general manager of Hangzhou Jane Yue Clothing Co., Ltd., technically speaking, buys and sells an international big suit to decompose and reproduce, and the style can be similar, but the version is difficult to do. "After a piece of clothing is decomposed and pressed, the fabric may change slightly, and different fabric tension, elasticity and gravity are different."
Yang Wenli, the design director of Zhejiang's famous dress limited company and Fang Guotao, the technical manager of the print division, often studied the characteristics of the customers' body.
"The name Sha brand is targeted at the older consumer groups. Their body changes are relatively large. According to their body shape, the style of the clothes is constantly adjusted." Fang Guotao said that the type of a garment was good, and at the same time decided the tolerance of a garment. For example, the same M code clothes, if the version is well played, the fat people wear, thin people can also afford to get up.
Hangzhou women's clothing industry association responsible person said that after years of development, in addition to the design efforts, in recent years, some of Hangzhou Women's wear The brand began to pay attention to the type of clothing. "Version is the core of a garment, and no imitation."
Girl dress pays more attention to style. Middle age dress pays more attention to edition.
There are two brands in Zhejiang's famous dress limited company: one is "the name Sha" which is located between the age of 30 and 45, and the other is "ICCI". Yang Wenli said that the positioning of the two brands is different, and the demand for the version is different.
For example, locating young "ICCI", the consumer groups are basically young women who have just joined the work. They are generally of good stature. When buying clothes, they are more interested in the style of the clothes. Relatively speaking, consumers of "name Sha" have begun to lose their shape because most of them have been born. Their requirements for clothes are not only for comfort, but also for clothes. "For example, pants, two brands of hip waist ratio is not the same, the same size, the name of the hip waist ratio is slightly larger."
Shang Zheng dress (Hangzhou) Co., Ltd. has three brands of different ages, such as "K.S, BERE" (Cass Bea), "LEVARZA .io" (luvesa Zhen ER). Among them, the positioning of the mature brand "K.S, BERE" in the making of the plate, the overall use of three-dimensional tailoring.
Mr. Zeng, the head of Shang Zheng clothing, said that because the stereotactic cutting needs to be pinned and corrected by pins on the clothing clippings, that is, compared with the ordinary typing, the cost of the comprehensive stereotactic cutting will be several times and the number of technicians will be more. "For example, the time needed for a solid cut to make a dress is equivalent to that of seven or eight ordinary plate making."
Although the output of stereotactic clothing is not high, the effect is obvious. Clothes are not only comfortable on the body, but also adjust the body curve. Young women wear clothes to show their stature, while middle-aged women need to use clothing to correct their curves. Mr. Tsang said.
Good clothes, fat people wear thin. The best designer in Zhejiang teaches you to pick clothes.
Chen Fa is the editor of Hangzhou Jane Yue Fashion Co., Ltd., and his other title is chief technician of Zhejiang province. Because in this year's Zhejiang provincial print master's contest, Chen FA technology has won the first prize.
"Many people only look at the front when they buy clothes. They think the front looks good. In my opinion, whether or not a dress is good is at least three faces. One is the front, one is the side, and the other is the back. The good clothes should be three-dimensional. Chen Fa said that if the ratio, angle and radian of the three surfaces are in place, the dress will not only be comfortable, but also reflect the stature.
For example, many girls like to buy a coat. From the side, its sleeves are slightly forward about 15 degrees, rather than straight down. "This is related to the characteristics of the human body, the arms move more in front of the body, the sleeves are slightly forward, and it is more comfortable to wear."
In order to make the sleeves look thinner, it is usually made into a cylindrical shape. "You see, if you measure with a ruler, the diameter of this sleeve is 13 centimeters, but if you pull the sleeve into a flat surface, the width of the sleeve will exceed 16 centimeters, so that the arm will look fat." Chen Fa measured it on his sleeve with his ruler.
From the back, the back of the dress is also radian. Chen Fa said that through the "save" processing of the shoulders (that is, pleats, in order to make the clothes more comfortable and comfortable), that is, the back curve is corrected, even when the arm is moving forward, the back of the clothes will not be hung up, very close and natural.
Chen Fa said that in order to make the winter coat or suit wear more comfortable, there will be no heavy feeling. "The most powerful part of the human body is in the position of the shoulder and neck. If the force point is near the shoulder, a coat will be very tired."
The type of skirt and trousers is also important. "When pants are playing, the most important thing is to raise the buttocks and straighten the legs." Chen Fa said, "for example, from the side, the waist curve is slightly tilted from the front to the back. This is done for the back of the trousers to fit the human body. There is room for the front to lift the buttocks and increase comfort.
When the trousers are playing the plate, in order to show the legs straight, the seam between the front and the back pieces is slightly "forward" out of a centimeter, rather than just the midline of the side of the human body. "But sometimes it's not so rigid by hand." Chen Fa said.
Why do most of the good edition masters belong to men?
In the impression, the old tailor is mostly female, but in the industry of print master, the good edition master is almost the same male.
In the 2012 top ten edition of Hangzhou teachers' selection, only one female editor was finally admitted to the top ten list, and the rest was male version.
Xia Guoying said, a piece of clothing from design to clothing, the production process is like this: the designer designs the draft, the general draft is drawn, and the plate master makes the space conception according to the manuscript on the paper, that is, first outline the outline of the garment in the head, then make the tailoring and typing. "The print master needs a strong spatial stereoscopic thinking and a sense of structure, which is what men are good at."
"This is also the main reason why international fashion masters are predominantly male." The head of a women's clothing company said that domestic designers generally lay particular stress on different designs. Foreign masters of clothing were proficient in every aspect from design, plate making to making garments. "Among them, the role of three-dimensional space thinking plays a very important role."
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