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    "Soft Gold" Fragrant Gauze Comes Back Again.

    2013/9/5 21:29:00 35

    Xiangyun YarnGarment FabricsFabric IndustryChemical Fiber Fabrics

    < p > the so-called "soft gold" < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp" > Xiangyun gauze < /a > has been highly sought after in recent years.

    In 2008, the Shunde Lun Jiao Street successfully declared the "Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing technology" as a manual technology declaration to become a national intangible cultural heritage.

    However, few people know that Xiangyun gauze originated in Minle village, Xiqiao Town, South China Sea in 1840s.

    In the 80s of last century, because of the impact of chemical fiber, the technology of Xiangyun gauze has been interrupted for more than thirty years in Xiqiao.

    < /p >


    "P > time flies. It is worrying to see that traditional skills will disappear in Xiqiao.

    Recently, the villagers of Minle village in Xiqiao restored a traditional flower tree named a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/" > loom < /a > in the 30s of last century, hoping to pass on traditional skills.

    < /p >


    < p > < strong > source: < /strong > < /p >


    < p > < strong > 60 years old. When the old man recalls his childhood, every family weaving the fragrant gauze yarn < /strong > < /p >.


    < p > yesterday, under the guidance of Zhang Ying, a researcher at the Archives Research Institute of Nanhai District, the reporter walked into Minle village, Xiqiao town. This village is the birthplace of Xiangyun gauze.

    < /p >


    < p > according to Zhang Ying, a researcher at Nanhai District Archives, according to "Guangdong a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "> textile < /a > industrial history", "Guangdong provincial records, silk" and "Nanhai County textile industry Zhi" and other classics, in 1840s, the Xiqiao Nanle village began to dye the plain silk with the use of Dioscorea, river mud and so on.

    "Bassy" is the use of wild plant Dioscorea and river silt, the silk on the ground, after the process of dipping juice, sealing the water, crossing the river and so on more than 10 processes, the surface of the fabric form a layer of dark black glue, so that the original soft silk into a magnolia fabric, this is the glistening silk.

    < /p >


    In the twenty-four years (1844) of the Qing Dynasty Daoguang (P), the village of Xiqiao Minle village in the South China Sea reformed the plain woven loom that used to weave single plain weave, making it a jacquard loom that could be woven with simple jacquard.

    Since then, Cheng has introduced the nine skills of the Chinese traditional woodcarving techniques into the silk weaving techniques, such as the "Nine Palace" and "Wan Zi Hua".

    < /p >


    < p > after that, after dyeing and finishing in Panyu City, the South China Sea and Shunde were also used in the South China Sea and Shunde. They were also used in the dyeing and finishing of yarns. "A href=" http://www.91se91.com/news/ > White germ gauze < /a "formed the gauze gauze after dyeing and finishing.

    < /p >


    < p > because the New Jersey made of gauze gauze is quite cool, it will be called "ringing cloud" because of its slight rubbing sound when it is worn, and later it is also called "Xiangyun gauze" because of homophonic.

    Because of the jacquard hollowing, the gauze is bright and bright, but it is not bright.

    < /p >


    < p > according to Zhang Shaofang, a 64 year old villager in Minle village, Zhang Shaofang had a wooden loom in his village when he was a child, and at the age of five or six, the children began to help with the fragrant gauze beside their parents.

    < /p >


    < p > < strong > interruption: < /strong > < /p >


    < p > < strong > chemical fiber is prevalent, and the fragrant gauze is left behind, < /strong > /p >


    < p > according to Zhang Ying, during the early and middle period of the Republic of China, Xiangyun gauze became the main export silk in Guangdong.

    In 1938, a large number of silk weaving workers in Xiqiao were in a separate flight.

    < /p >


    < p > Zhang Shaofang recalled that when gauze gauze was only rich, people could afford it.

    "At that time, the price of the gauze yarn would probably be spent on a primary school teacher's salary of 1/3 a month."

    < /p >


    < p > why is the price of Xiangyun gauze so high? Zhang Shaofang said that a wooden loom, even though the workers worked from five in the morning to twelve in the evening, could only weave seven or eight meters of fragrant gauze and three days to weave a eighteen meter cloth.

    The "cloud gauze" woven before dyeing and finishing will form the gauze yarn.

    Because of the time-consuming process, the price was overestimated at that time.

    Reporters learned that, because of the complexity of Kawoon Sari's technology, even now weaving by motor, every day can only weave about 20 meters of < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > cloth < /a >.

    At present, the price of Xiangyun gauze on the market is still very high. The price of a ton of Xiangyun gauze is about 400 thousand yuan, about 200 yuan per meter, making a a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > clothes < /a > after a dress is at least 1000 yuan.

    < /p >


    < p > until 80s of last century, the looms in Minle village did not stop.

    However, with the growing popularity of chemical fiber production technology, compared with time consuming, expensive and expensive yarn, people gradually forget.

    "People no longer like to wear it, and the workers certainly do not want to work hard to earn a living."

    Zhang Shaofang sighed that this traditional skill has been suspended for decades in Minle village.

    < /p >


    < p > < strong > reproduce: < /strong > < /p >


    < p > < strong > villagers collect parts < /strong > /p >


    < p > < strong > spend several months to reassemble < /strong > /p >


    < p > yesterday morning, Zhang Shaofang weaved the fragrant gauze on the newly restored < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/" > the wooden loom < /a >. "Childhood memories will never be forgotten."

    The wood loom is about three meters high, and the whole machine is made of various wood. The yarn flows down from the top of the wood loom.

    Zhang Shaofang stepped on the bamboo pole on the ground, and used his hand to play with the yarn, so repeatedly repeating, a snow-white "white germ yarn" appeared.

    The fragrant gauze is placed in the air in front of the sun to see it as pparent as a mirror. It shows a hollow hollow jacquard like a wood carving hollows. The whole cloth is soft and smooth, but it is not pparent through the wind.

    < /p >


    "P >" Xiangyun gauze "has broken down in Xiqiao for decades. It is worrying to see that traditional arts will disappear in Xiqiao town.

    Last year, Minle villagers began collecting parts of the old wooden looms from all households. Up to the beginning of this year, it took several months to reassemble the wood looms, hoping to pass on this ancient art.

    "The loom that was once so common in every household is now so hard to find, and many elderly people have forgotten how to assemble wood looms."

    After many attempts, the wood loom is now working again.

    < /p >


    < p > 2008, Shunde Lun Jiao Street successfully declared "< a href=" http://www.91se91.com > "Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing technology < /a >" as a manual technology declaration to become a national intangible cultural heritage.

    However, it was not until last year that Xiqiao town applied the "Xiqiao Kawoon Sari skills" to the fourth batch of intangible cultural heritage projects in the South China Sea.

    Today's "Xiqiao Kawoon Sari arts" heritage Xian Dafeng told reporters: "Shunde is dyeing and finishing skills, and Xiqiao is weaving skills, hoping to pass this skill down."

    < /p >

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