Visiting CHIC Designer Brand: How Designer Brand Faces The Commercialized Market

The development trend of individualization and differentiation of consumer market is constantly pushing China forward. Designer Brand development and development, but at the same time, many brand designers who are growing up are facing various choices: commercialization or artistry? Individuality gene or public aesthetics? Independent operation or brand cooperation? The current market is not only an opportunity but also a challenge to designer brand. In such a market environment, no matter how the enterprise chooses, it can not escape the test of the market. At the same time, the "resonance" of the market also highlights the sense of existence and value of designer brand to some extent. In this regard, how does the designer brand achieve transformation and maturity in the collision with the business environment? With this doubt, the reporter interviewed several designer brands participating in CHIC2013 with a view to finding the answer.

　　 First "survive" and then design.

Zhang Shangnan, general manager assistant of Hangzhou Textile Co., Ltd.

At present, China Designer brand The pattern of survival is quite distinct. One is a well-known brand designer. These brands already have a mature operation system, to a certain extent, they are no longer the designer brand in a strict sense, and the commercialization property is becoming more and more prominent. The other is the growing designer brand, which is also the largest part of the designer brand in China. Because of limited funds and insufficient cash flow, they are hard to break through in channel development.

Faced with the large number of growing designer brands, I think they need to solve their survival problems before they want to develop. To solve the problem of survival, channels must be faced.

The market of Chinese designer brand is quite different from that of foreign countries. In foreign countries, design and market are separate, which allows designers to do what they want. The freedom of design is also determined by the perfect design system of foreign countries: the government will give designers a certain amount of money to support their development; all channels will provide a platform for the sale of designer brand; the mature consumer market and consumption concept also promote the marketization of designer brand. But in the Chinese market, the lack of the above advantages also determines the development path of the local designer brand "design + market".

In this regard, designer brand development must combine with the market and accept. market Test.

In my opinion, in the initial stage of brand development, designers should not emphasize their brand personality too much, they should be combined with the market, and be clear about who will pay for their products. This requires designers to do well in combination with the local market, to understand the preferences of different regions, and to play their professional advantages to do what they are good at.

In terms of channel, I think the specialized market is more suitable for the growth designer brand. The professional market I refer to refers to thirteen markets like Guangzhou, Hangzhou Sijiqing and Beijing Tianya. These markets do not have the high cost of entering stores, and the closing period is fast, which is conducive to the rapid flow of designer brand cash. At the same time, compared with the electronic business platform, the pressure of the professional market price war is smaller and eliminates the cost of the entry point, and the professional market is directly facing the consumer audience, which also helps the designer adjust the design idea in time.

After the designer brand has gradually entered the right track and aggregated a certain consumer audience, the brand will emphasize its own style and highlight the brand gene. Because this time, the brand target consumer group has been clear, these people also have certain acceptance and loyalty to the brand style, this has also created a relatively relaxed design space for the designer.

For the future development of designer brand, I feel that although the space is very large, the market needs further training. First of all, we should enhance the understanding of fashion and beauty. Secondly, the society should pay more attention to the designer's brand. Taking the exhibition platform as an example, we can conduct a preliminary research on the designer's brand market and organize the professional audience to participate in the brand's press conference to achieve the docking.

　 Difference seeking

Gao Wenjie, sales manager, Chongqing Camp Trading Co., Ltd.

About China clothing In the consumer market, women's clothing consumption is the largest volume of the market, but it is also the most tragic brand competition.

Fast fashion brands have shown prominently in the women's wear market in recent years, and the large number of business models also caters to the female consumers' pursuit of fashion. But when the fast fashion brand is in the "great leap forward", its product quality and design originality are also criticized by consumers and industries. For this, compared with the fast fashion brand's obsession with speed, I feel that the development mode of non radical and slow training is more suitable for our brand.

The continuous upgrading of the consumer market has promoted the continuous subdivision of women's clothing consumption, and the development of market segmentation has also provided great opportunities for the development of women's clothing brands. In this regard, who can attract a specific consumer group with a brand style and gather loyal fans can occupy a place in the women's clothing market.

But in the face of the development of women's clothing brand, what brand style can attract consumers? In my opinion, winning the game in the women's clothing market is inseparable from the prominence of brand differentiation characteristics, and at the same time, this differentiation feature must have some durability.

The prosperity of fast fashion is closely related to the current fast-paced and high-pressure social environment. The proliferation of FMCG has also caused a lot of waste of resources. In this regard, the community has also gradually reflected, clothing and fashion industry has also been one of the main high quality classic brand to "correct" the current consumption of the concept of fast consumption. Therefore, in the long run, I think a stable design style and high quality clothing products will be sought after by the future consumer market.

In this regard, when we launched the brand Sam Qi and Joe, we made a precise brand positioning. The main theme of the "Sam Qi" is elegant and casual style, which is provided by the Austria design studio. Its products are mainly sold in Austria. "Joe" takes the brand style of the Chinese style and the modern European style, mainly aiming at some fashionable personalities.

In terms of the operation of the two brands, we do not pursue the diversity of design. What we pay more attention to is to make the design well and well, and introduce some classic styles.

Of course, to achieve such a brand concept, information feedback from the market is nothing more than closing doors. Therefore, we also look forward to understanding the public's aesthetic and consumption trends through exhibitions, with a view to constantly revising the brand's design concept. {page_break}

　　 "Grounding gas" is a good design.

Wan Yi Guangzhou Clothes & Accessories General Manager / Designer

At present, although many Chinese men's wear brands, but most of the styles are too convergent, which also leads consumers to buy men's clothing can be less selective. From this point of view, there is still much room for future development of men's wear brands, especially for men's clothing with both design sense and wearability.

The development trend of future consumption differentiation is bound to put forward higher requirements for garment enterprises. Providing consumption trends that can meet different occasions and suit customers' personal attire is also the "requirement" that future market poses for garment enterprises. In this regard, men's clothing enterprises still have great room for development.

In my opinion, in Chinese men's wear brand, ZARA can be regarded as a relatively strong brand style. Brand clothing One of. Highlighting the style design has always been one of the advantages of ZARA, but the rapid turnover of goods also makes it difficult to control the quality strictly. Quality problems also become obstacles to further growth of ZARA. At the same time, sketching is also a typical representative of men's wear designer brand. However, due to the strong brand style, it also determines the niche positioning of the target group.

Compared with men's wear in China, I think Korean men's clothing is worth learning from. South Korea men's clothing market matures, men's clothing is not only strong sense of design, and rich in categories, to provide consumers with a large selectivity, while the overall design can also achieve a good balance between the sense of design and commercialization.

DEPOT3 was ready for three years. At the beginning of brand building, we tried to avoid some malpractices existing in the men's wear market. Pay attention to design and control details. I think this is very important for the development of a brand. But what I mean by design is not to highlight the strong style of the designer, but to integrate the sense of brand design with commercialization. This requires designers to wear clothing with their own style, but also to have a real degree of wear, a wild ride, to "landing". In fact, this is also a reason why we choose the brand to Guangzhou.

Guangzhou is one of the most popular cities in China. It is not only open and fast, but also provides a good environment for us to test the brand, so that we can adjust the design idea and product structure in time according to the market feedback. And when we do product design, we don't emphasize our style positioning too much, but adjust constantly according to the market reaction. Our current brand style is the result of running in with the market again and again.

　　 Design "cross boundary" commercialization

Wu Xuewei, General Manager / designer of Beijing Chla International Fashion Co., Ltd.

In the past few years, industrialized brands occupy the most important position of shopping malls, but in the past two years, their sales situation has declined greatly, and it is difficult to maintain their original position in the shopping mall. The reason is more than brand homogenization.

Nowadays, many consumers do not want to go shopping in shopping malls, because no matter men's wear, women's wear or children's clothing, they are too similar from style design to fabric color, so it is difficult to find something satisfying. It is also because of this reason that the designer's Street store and e-commerce brand have gradually become popular in recent two years. And this pursuit of personalized, niche, differentiated consumption trend also provides great space for the development of designer brand.

But designer brand is developing rapidly in China, but it also faces some problems. Speaking from the designer himself, the lack of mature brand management experience is the first, followed by the lack of a sound sales channel. In essence, these two elements complement each other and influence each other.

Channel is the root of brand development. The imperfections of channel system, besides the reasons of designer brand itself, are mostly caused by the great environment of Chinese market. First of all, for a large number of new designer brands, the threshold of traditional shopping malls is too high, which not only requires a considerable amount of entrance fee, but also has the cost of selling points. Secondly, the order size of designer's brand is generally not large, and accordingly the demand regulation of ordering fabrics is relatively limited. But in different mature markets in Japan and South Korea, it is difficult to place orders for fabrics less than 600 meters in the domestic market. For some well-known fabric companies, the order of their products is even more than 1000 kilometers. And if the designer chooses to order fabrics abroad, it will also face long production cycle problems.

Faced with such a living environment, I think there are two development directions for designer brand development. The first is to highlight the strong brand style and to win the market. Of course, this type of design brand is very few in the current domestic and foreign market, because to realize the independent operation of designer brand, it requires the designer to have strong financial support. The two is to cooperate with the capital consortium and famous brands, which is also a way to adopt the designer's brand development at present. While the designer brand seeks capital, the investor pays attention to the practical ability of the designer, which requires the designer to combine his mentality and artistic sense with commerce.

Through cooperation to promote brand development does not mean that the designer's brand design style will be missing. On the contrary, I think this cooperation can highlight the value of the designer brand, and provide the designer with a broad stage of self play. Just like Carle Lagrange, in his 30 years of cooperation with Chanel, he was not confined to Chanel's inherent style. Instead, he continued to extend Chanel's DNA to meet the needs of the times while inheriting the essence of Chanel's brand. It is also worth learning from the designer brand in China.