Cheongsam - The Representative Of Oriental Beauty

Overview of Cheongsam

　　 cheongsam In the first half of the twentieth Century, it was a fashion design based on the traditional flag clothing of the Manchu women and the western culture. It was a combination of eastern and Western cultures. In the eyes of some Westerners, cheongsam symbolizes the culture of Chinese women's clothing.

Flag in Qing Dynasty

In a strong feudal ethical atmosphere, it is impossible for women to expose curves as usual. In the Qing Dynasty, the straight line of the flag was straight, and the chest, shoulders, waist and buttocks were perfectly straight, so that the curves of the female body were not exposed. Although the cheongsam is changed to the flag of Manchu women, cheongsam is not a flag. Cheongsam is a fashion with Chinese characteristics, western style aesthetics and Western style tailoring. The flag is the national costume of Manchu nationality. Most of the flattens are made of straight lines, loose body, split ends, close waist to waist size, and a large number of roll decorations on the cuffs. Yellow is the color of Royale, and the public is against it. The colors of the flag are brightly coloured and complex, and the colors and colors are various. There are several bright lace or coloured teeth roll designs on necklines, cuffs and tucks. Because the flag is a kind of plane dress, the disc roll becomes the only design space of the flag besides the fabric, so it is more beautiful. In the late Qing Dynasty, "Eighteen inlays" (i.e. eighteen lace) were used. In the Qing Dynasty, most of the patterns in the Qing Dynasty were mainly sketching techniques, such as dragon and lion, Fukulu Zuki, Phoenix, cranes, plum, bamboo, chrysanthemum and flowers, as well as eight treasures, eight immortals, and so on.

　　 Republican China cheongsam

Since 1840, modern culture has been impregnated with Chinese culture. Many coastal cities, especially the metropolis such as Shanghai, have been attracted by western culture.

The cheongsam, which was popular in 20s twentieth Century, was born out of Manchu women's clothing in Qing Dynasty. It was stereotyped by women in the Republic of China. At that time, there was no professional clothing research center. The changes in clothing styles were constantly changing under the influence of the fashion of the ages.

From 1920s to the end of 40s, Chinese cheongsam has been popular for more than 20 years, and its styles have undergone several changes, such as the height of the collar, the length of the sleeves and the height of the slit, which has made the cheongsam completely rid of the old fashions, changing the old appearance of the Chinese women's long arms and arms, showing the female body and the beauty of curves perfectly, which is suitable for the prevailing fashion and has made a great contribution to women's liberation. The cheongsam cheongsam was most popular among the female students at that time. It followed suit all over the country, almost becoming the typical dress of the new Chinese women in the late 20s. It is worth mentioning that at that time, the fashionable girls, celebrities, movie stars and so on, who led the fashion trend, also promoted the development of cheongsam style. Among them, Tang Ying and others were the earliest fashion companies in Shanghai. Since 30s, cheongsam has become almost the standard garment of Chinese women. Cheongsam has even become a dress for social occasions and diplomatic activities. Later, cheongsam went abroad to imitate the dress of other women.

30s and 40s are the golden age of cheongsam and the most glorious period of modern Chinese women's clothing. The cheongsam style is very long at this time, which is consistent with the fashionable dress of women in Europe at this time. At this time, Qipao has completely jumped out of the banner of the banner of the female robe, and it is entirely a new style of "Chinese and Western combination". First of all, there is a saying of "clique". Local cheongsam is westernized, and Western-style handles are used outside the collar and sleeves, such as lotus leaf collar, western style lapel, lotus leaf sleeve, etc. Although the application of these reforms is not extensive, it indicates the freedom of thought at that time, and the original program of Qipao is no longer necessary. Cheongsam and Western coat The collocation is also a feature of the "clique", which makes the cheongsam enter the international clothing family and can combine with many modern clothes. In today's words, it has become "internationalized and modernized". The cheongsam in 20s is still wide and straight; the cheongsam's hem is bigger than that of Qin's popular sleeves, and the whole robe is also "upside down". But shoulders, breasts and even the waist have been fitted. Eileen Chang said: "the cheongsam of Chu Xing is cold and upright, with the Puritan wind. "This is the first time," said the female writer who is good at observing and describing fashion. If it means 20s, it must be the impression of her childhood.

In the late 30s, "improved cheongsam" appeared. The cheongsam's cutting structure and structure are more westernized, and the Qipao is more suitable for the use of chest and waist provinces, while shoulder joints and sleeves are also formed, so that shoulders and armpits are fitted together. Someone also makes the softer shoulder pad "beauty shoulder". This shows that women begin to abandon the old ideal shape angle characterized by shoulders. These cuts and structural changes were completed in Shanghai. Mr. Jin Taijun, the descendant of Shanghai Hongxiang company, firmly believes this. Although he himself did not personally experience the whole process, but when he worked in Hongxiang in 40s, he could get much information from his teacher. The cheongsam is mature and has been set up. The cheongsam will no longer jump out of the basic form determined by the cheongsam in 30s. It can only make some changes in its length, weight and decoration. The cheongsam, which is loved by women all over the world, is typical of Cheongsam in 30s. The cheongsam in 30s is modeled after the Shanghai style cheongsam.

In 20s twentieth Century, influenced by western dress, cheongsam gradually became popular among women. There are many styles of cheongsam, such as Ruyi, pipa, slanting and double breasted, with high collar, low collar, no collar, long sleeves, short sleeves and sleeveless sleeves, slit high slit, low slit, long cheongsam, short Qipao, Qipao, single cheongsam and so on. The improved cheongsam became almost the standard garment of Chinese women in 1930s.

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At this time, the fashion center has been moved from Su Yang to Shanghai. Shanghai is also a major town for women to seek liberation. Missionaries, businessmen and revolutionaries competed in the establishment of women's studies, and set off a wave of feminist movement. Seeking liberation society's atmosphere to wash away the conventions and customs of dress adornment, tending to be concise and tonal, striving for elegance, and paying attention to embody the natural beauty of women. Cheongsam originally appeared in the form of waistcoat, with the length of the vest and the back of the foot on the short coat. After changing the long waistcoat into a sleeved pattern, it becomes the rudiment of the new cheongsam. It is said that the most popular female student in Shanghai is the founder of cheongsam. At that time, female students, as the representatives of intellectual women, became the ideal image of the society. They were symbols of civilization and the forerunner of fashion, and even the fashionable personages of social celebrities were all dressed up as female students.

Qipao originated from the banners of the banners, and Beijing was the largest place where the banners lived. So until the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, cheongsam belonged to Beijing culture. The banners of the Qing Dynasty include men's robes and women's robes, but because Qipao are women's garments, they can also be said that Qipao is derived from the robe of a flag girl. At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, the robe of the flag girl, which was thin, tight, tight and slim, was enlarged and mattress at the end of Qing Dynasty. After the revolution of 1911, the banners overthrew their robes and wore gowns and trousers. Therefore, in twentieth Century, there were few cheongsam in the 10 years, and there was a slight recovery in 20s. Cheongsam has undergone qualitative changes after the change. The main place for this change is Shanghai.

The cheongsam in modern people's daily life pays more attention to the comfort of fabrics. Their styles are diverse, styles are generally relaxed, people are able to move freely, most of them choose cotton and linen cloth materials, show comfortable home feeling, and improve the modern sense for the public.

The cheongsam, which has a sense of ink and painting, combines artistic temperament and life elements together. The white ink and ink are colored, reminiscent of ancient ink painting and blue and white porcelain, perfectly integrating Chinese classical culture with modern civilization; and the low-key and elegant colors are quite suitable for everyday wear, and cotton and linen fabrics wash conveniently and well, which is an excellent choice for modern people to wear cheongsam.