Looking For Fashion Elements In National Costumes: Hui Accessories

Hui nationality Clothes & Accessories The main logo is on the head. Men like to wear round hats made of white. There are two kinds of round hats, one is flat topped, the other is hexagonal. People who are fastidious also tattoo exquisite patterns on their round hats. Hui women often wear hijabs. The headscarf is also exquisite. Older women wear white headscarf, which looks white and generous; Middle aged women wear black, looking solemn and elegant; Unmarried women wear green, which looks fresh and beautiful. Many married women usually wear white or black brimmed round hats. There are two kinds of round hats. One is made of white bleached cloth, and the other is made of white or black silk thread, often woven into beautiful geometric patterns. In terms of clothing, Hui old men like to wear white shirts and black waistcoats (called "horse clips" by villagers). Hui elderly women wear black or brown headscarves in winter, and white scarves in summer, and have the habit of tying pants and fading. Young women wear red, green or blue headscarves in winter and red, green and yellow tulle scarves in summer. Hui women in mountainous areas like to wear embroidered shoes, and they have the habit of piercing their ears and wearing earrings.

Costume history

Tang Dynasty

The Hui people refer to clothes with strong Islamic style as "clothes" and "wearing".

Du Huan of the Tang Dynasty of our country was defeated and captured in a battle in the Tang Dynasty and Dashi. He recorded what he saw and heard in his own place. Among them, he talked about Dashi's clothes: "(Dashi) a Yaguruo, whose Dashi King is called Mumen, is here. His ladies are magnificent and grow up. Their clothes are fresh and clean, and their leisure is beautiful. When women go out, they will cover their faces.... Tie a silver belt and wear a silver knife". Many of these big eaters came to China to do business, and naturally brought the custom of clothing to China. The New Book of the Tang Dynasty recorded for the first time the image, clothing and religious activities of Islamic believers. It is said that: "The food is in Persia, where men have high noses, black faces and beards, women are white, and they have trouble going out. They worship the gods on five days, wear silver belts, and wear silver knives..." From these records, it can be seen that Muslims from Arabia, Persia, and other places to China, especially Muslim women, still have distinctive costumes.

Song Dynasty

Zhu He of the Song Dynasty wrote in "Pingzhou Ketan": "Guangzhou Fanfang, Tibetan clothes and Chinese differences..." During the Tang and Song Dynasties, there were a large number of Muslim businessmen from Arabia and Persia, generally known as "Tibetan tourists", who were the ancestors of the Hui nationality. This shows that the clothing of the Hui ancestors at that time was different from that of the Han people, and had its own characteristics. Gu Yanwu's "The Book of Beneficial Diseases in the Counties and Countries under Heaven" records more clearly: "In the Song Dynasty, the Tibetan merchants were very rich. Their clothes were all pearls, Luo Qi, and the utensils were all gold and silver utensils." It can be seen that they were wearing patterned silk, wearing rings, and using gold and silver utensils.

Yuan Dynasty

The custom of Hui men wearing white hats and wearing "daisdar" on their heads dates back to a long time ago. The Qingbo Biezhi by Zhou Hui of the Song Dynasty said: "Layan is a country near the South China Sea. The noble people wrap their heads with good and Yue cloth. People's words are like big food." In the Yuan Dynasty, the Hui people had a relatively high political, economic and cultural status. The Hui people's dress customs, like other customs, were free, without any restrictions. There were Han clothing, Arab, Persian and other styles, There are self-made white hats, scarves, gowns, shoes, etc., and they began to develop into national costumes. However, by the Ming Dynasty, the Hui people's dress customs began to be restricted. The Hui nationality was forced and restricted by the ruling class, not according to the belief customs and the clothing styles of their ancestors, but in combination with the reality of living development in China. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, Zhu Yuanzhang, the first emperor of the Ming Dynasty, adopted the policy of prohibiting "Hu costumes" and making the Hui people wear Han costumes. In this way, the dress customs that the Hui people began to form could not be developed quickly and could not be respected. In the Qing Dynasty, the ruling class had more prejudice against the Hui people. In the early years of Yongzheng period, Chen Shigong, the governor of Shandong Province, and Lu Guohua, the acting governor of Anhui Province, and other local officials complained to the Qing court, accusing and interfering with the Hui people's clothing and beliefs, saying that the Hui people "wear white hats in the morning and evening, and set up worship......" Therefore, He suggested: "Please make the Hui people obey the Zhengshuo, obey the rules, worship in the temple, and ban the reform."

In this way, the clothing of the Hui nationality is not only influenced by Islam, but also forced and restricted by the ruling class. However, the Hui costumes did not completely succumb to the prohibition of the ruling class and changed into Han costumes, but insisted on and retained some clothing habits with strong Islamic and national characteristics. For example, Yuan Dahua in the Qing Dynasty recorded in the Xinjiang Tuzhi that "the imam's hat is sharp and high on the top, and the eaves are split with white cloth. It is twenty or three inches thick, and the hat is taken off as a reverence. The entrance must be unscrewed. Women must block the face. All of them are ancient." It also said that "only the temple worships in the middle and wears a prismatic crown. The top is sharp and the bottom is round, and all colors are available, while white is more". To this day, Hui people still wear white hats, some of them are tied with "Desdar", and women cover their heads, all of which are important features of the development and change of Hui clothing customs.

{page_break}

Hui costumes have multiple functions. One is to protect the body. This is the objective necessity of human production, life and survival. Choose different clothes according to different seasons, wear single clothes in summer, wear cotton padded clothes, leather clothes, leather shoes, etc. in winter, and wear cotton hats, leather hats, or ear muffs, etc. in order to prevent cold in the northeast and northwest. Hui women also wear headscarves and scarves to prevent wind and sand.

Decoration

The second is the role of decoration. Everyone has a love for beauty, and Hui people are no exception. This is the inherent requirement of human beings to beautify themselves.

For example, the Hui nationality men wear shirts and green waistcoats, women point their forehead, dye their nails, and embroider their clothes, all of which have decorative factors. The third is the factor of belief. When Hui people go to mosques or celebrate national festivals, they need to wrap their heads around Daisdar, wear quasi white socks, wear Maisai socks, and women cover their heads. Therefore, in addition to the role of body protection and decoration, Hui costumes also have the factor of belief, which constitutes the folk characteristics of Hui costumes.

The clothing of the Hui nationality forms men's clothing and women's clothing according to gender, and the clothing of men and women is very different; According to the age, children's clothing, adult clothing and elderly clothing are formed. Hui women's clothing is divided into unmarried clothing, married middle-aged clothing and married elderly clothing; Different costumes are formed according to regions, seasons and religious occupations. Here is an overview of the main clothing items in the two categories of men's and women's clothing.

Hui men's clothing

The brimless small white hat worn by men, also known as "worship hat", is a traditional male hat of the Hui nationality, a kind of brimless small round hat. When the Hui people kowtow in worship, their forehead and nose must touch the ground. It is more convenient to wear a brimless hat, so it has developed into a clothing custom.

Returnhat

From the perspective of color, there are usually white, gray, blue, green, red, black and other colors, some are solid colors, and many are with Islamic style lace or patterns, words, such as the star moon pattern, Arabic "Allah is the greatest", "pure words" and so on, which can be worn according to the season and occasion. Generally, white hats are worn most in spring, summer and autumn, and gray or black hats are worn in winter. The most common hat style is white. The married groom usually wears red hats to show his happiness.

The back hat is usually made of dacron, polyester card, cotton cloth and other fabrics, and also white Cotton thread Hooked. Black is mostly made of velveteen, cotton felt, fancy tweed and other materials, which can also be knitted with wool. In addition, hats made of cow and sheep leather are also very popular.

Destaler

Persian phonetic translation, which means the cloth wrapped on the head of the imam or imam of the mosque.

In addition to wearing white hats, some Hui people also use white or yellow towels or cloth to wrap their heads, which is popularly known as "wrapping heads and returning". It is said that Mohammed, when he spread Islam in the early days, wrapped his head around the worship of Destala. Dystal is usually 9 or 12 feet long. There are many points to be paid attention to when wrapping the head. The front can only be wrapped to the hairline of the forehead, and the forehead cannot be wrapped inside. This is not conducive to kowtow worship. One end of the wrap should be left an elbow long behind the vest, and the other end should be pressed into the wrap layer of the back of the head after wrapping.

In the past, most Hui people used to wear white hats, while the imams, mullahs and villagers who often go to temples in mosques used to wear white hats.

Massey socks

Also known as Massey socks, it is a kind of leather socks worn by the northern Muslim elderly in winter. "Maisaihai" is an Arabic transliteration, meaning "leather socks". It is generally made of soft and thin cow leather similar to leather jacket, which is clean, bright, strong and durable. If you wear Massey socks, you can avoid the foot washing procedure in small cleaning, and touch the toe to heel of the socks with wet hands, which is equivalent to foot washing. Therefore, Hui Muslims generally prefer Massey socks. In the past, Massey socks were sewn by ourselves. Now, there are factories specialized in processing Massey socks in Linxia, Gansu and other places, which meet the requirements of the majority of Muslims and are well received.

Quasi white

Arabic transliteration means "robe" and "long coat". This is the favorite clothing of the Muslim Manla, imam and Hui elderly. Quasi white is generally made of cotton cloth, chemical fiber or wool in black, white, gray and other colors, including single, clip, cotton and leather. Its style is similar to modern long clothes, but the collar is generally the uniform collar.

Hui men also like to wear white shirts, white high tube cloth socks, white cloth crotch slacks, etc.

waistcoat

It is an important part of the men's clothing of the Hui nationality, representing the simple and generous national characteristics of the Hui nationality.

Both men and women of the Hui nationality love to wear the waistcoat, especially the men of the Hui nationality like to put a suitable green waistcoat on the white shirt. The black and white contrast is bright, fresh, clean, and elegant. There are also many waistcoats with exquisite Islamic patterns and various colors. Wearing them makes people feel very neat and capable.

According to different seasons, Hui people wear different waistcoats, including clip, cotton and leather. It can be used as a coat and worn inside. The green waistcoat shoulders of Hui men use needles to tie open lines at the front edge and pocket opening, so that the edges of the clothes are flat and neat, highlighting the beauty of the lines of the clothing modeling. At the same time, the same material is used to make small bag buttons, making them elegant. The material selection of Pikan shoulder is very particular. It should be made of fetal skin and short wool sheepskin, which is light, soft, flat and unfolded after sewing. Wearing this leather shoulder and a coat in winter is not only light and warm, but also harmonious and not fat. In particular, the Hui people love cleanliness, pay attention to hygiene, and have martial customs. They often wash their faces, wash their hands, wash small things, practice martial arts, put on their waistcoats, roll their sleeves, wash their faces, work, and practice martial arts, which is convenient and warm.

The Hui people held a "dressing" ceremony for Manla, who graduated from the mosque after chanting sutras. The believers in this workshop prepared a new dress, green hat, green robe, etc. for him to wear. This custom originated in Persia (Iran), because Persia is the old green food. In winter, the northern Hui people also use black cotton cloth or fox tail as earmuffs, and cloth earmuffs. It looks like a peach and is embroidered with simple patterns. Hui people like to wear their own sewn two fur coats and old sheepskin coats.

Cloth shoes

The shoes of traditional Hui men are generally self-made square mouth or round mouth cloth shoes, and also self-made sandals made of hemp and thread. With the development of society; Most Hui people now go to shops to buy all kinds of cloth shoes, cowhide shoes, sandals, etc., but do not wear pigskin shoes. The socks and insoles of rural men are generally embroidered. The Hui elderly have the habit of binding their trouser legs.

Waist knife

Hui men also like to wear a knife, commonly known as waist knife. Hui people hang waist knives for decoration and slaughter and rescue animals at any time. This custom is the same as the Arab custom of "tying a silver belt and wearing a waist knife" recorded by Du Huan in the Tang Dynasty. It was introduced from Arabia to the Hui people in China, and later gradually became the custom of the Hui people.

{page_break}

The dress of Hui women is also very distinctive. Generally, the head covering is worn (also called overlapping head covering).

Head covering is designed to cover hair, ears and neck. Hui people think that this is women's shame and should be covered up. The custom of wearing hijab is influenced by Arab countries. In the Arab region, it used to be very windy and dusty, and there was little water, so it was difficult for people to bathe in time. In order to prevent wind and sand and improve hygiene, women sew headbands that can cover their faces and protect their hair. Later, many Arab and Persian merchants brought this custom to China. The second is influenced by Islam. The Koran says: "You tell the believers to lower their sight, cover their lower body, and not expose jewelry, and ask them to cover their chest with veils, and not expose jewelry unless it is naturally exposed..." Although Chinese Hui women have abandoned masks, they also use headscarves to cover their heads, generally covering their hair, ears, and neck, Over time, Hui women gradually formed the habit of wearing hijab. Before wearing a cap, some Hui people put their hair on their head, while others left a handle behind their head, put on a hat, and then put on a cap. Hui people's hijabs, whether in Quanzhou, Guangzhou, Hainan and other coastal areas, or in the mainland, usually have three colors: green, blue and white, which can be divided into girls, daughter-in-law and elderly people. Generally, young girls wear green, married women wear black, and those with grandchildren or elderly women wear white. Wearing a green headscarf looks handsome and charming.

Wearing a white cap looks clean and dignified; Wearing a black cap looks elegant and upright. Hui women's "headscarves" are exquisite, mostly made of silk, silk, georgette, dacron and other high and middle grade fine materials. In terms of style, the old people's caps are longer and should be put on waistcoats; Girls and daughter-in-law have short caps, and the front covers the front neck. Hui women also like to inlay gold rims on their caps and embroider elegant flower patterns, which look fresh, beautiful, bright and pleasing to the eye. Nowadays, with the development of the times, some young Hui women's hijabs also have some changes in style and color, making them more lively and generous.

Large lapel

The traditional clothes of Hui women are mostly large skirts, but the decoration content is very rich. Girls and daughter-in-law like to inlay lines, color and piping on their clothes. Some of them also embroider on the front chest and front of their clothes, which are bright in color and lifelike, playing the role of finishing touch. All Hui women's clothes have buttons on the right, which are made of their own materials. Traditional Hui women like to embroider on the toe of their shoes. Socks mainly pay attention to heel walking and sole. Most heel walking socks are embroidered, and most soles are made of various geometric patterns, including embroidery.

Hui women don't like the color of their clothes to be flirtatious. Generally, the elderly wear black, blue, gray and other colors; Young and middle-aged people like to wear bright colors, such as green, blue and red.

Hui women, young and old, usually have holiday clothes; People who worship often also have a set of worship clothes.

Earrings

Most Hui women wear earrings when they are seven or eight years old; At the same time, he also likes to wear rings, bracelets, and some also point the forehead, dye nails and so on. Married women should also often open their faces to look beautiful and clean. Hui women like to wear earrings. In addition to decoration, it is said that they can also make people see clearly. There is a catchphrase among the Hui people that says, "Girls have bright eyes and earrings on both sides." This is true. The eye point is in the middle of the earlobe. Wearing earrings can stimulate the ear and eye points.

Ring

Hui people wear rings with the same emphasis as Muslims in Turkey, Pakistan, Egypt and other Arab countries in the Middle East and Han Chinese: wearing the ring finger means married, wearing the middle finger means no object, and wearing the little finger means that the object has not been married. In addition, Hui women also like to wear bracelets and earrings. It is said that a long time ago, there was a Hui daughter-in-law who raised an old woman. Because her family was very poor and could not even eat enough, she went to a businessman's house to do part-time jobs and cook for others. Every time after the meeting, the daughter-in-law refuses to wash her hands. She sneaks back with her hands to wash and make noodles for her mother-in-law, so that she can barely eat. After a period of time, suddenly one day there was lightning, thunder and black clouds rolling in the sky. Grandma and daughter-in-law were afraid. Daughter-in-law could not help confessing that she should not eat other people's food, so she put out her hand, closed her eyes, and wanted to let the thunder go. After a loud thunder, the daughter-in-law opened her eyes and found that her hands were not only intact, but also wearing gold bracelets on both hands. Since then, the Hui daughter-in-law wearing bracelets has become a symbol of filial piety to the elderly. Now some Hui women do not have gold bracelets, but can also use other materials instead, such as silver bracelets, jade bracelets, etc.

nail

Hui women also like to dye their nails with impatiens. This custom also came from Arabia, Persia and other places, because there was no balsamine in China before the Han Dynasty. During the reign of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, Zhang Qian heard that there was a Tiaozhi State (Arabia) in the West. Later, Gan Ying was sent to the Western Regions, so there was communication between China and Arabia. Henceforth, they communicated with each other, and impatiens were also introduced to China from the Western Regions.

The Arabic name of impatiens is "Hai Hu". There are detailed records about this in Zhoumi's Guixin Miscellaneous Knowledge: "Impatiens, which are red, can be crushed with leaves, put a little alum in it, wash their nails first, then put them on their nails, and wrap them with pieces of silk for the night. When they are dyed for the first time, they are light in color. They are dyed three or five times consecutively. Their color is like rouge, and they can't be washed away. It can take ten days until their nails are removed. Or it is also the law of guarding the palace. No, it is not. Most women back today like this."

After the formation of the Hui nationality, they still follow their ancestors' customs and pass them down from generation to generation. Today, many Hui women also like to dye their nails with impatiens to show their beauty.

Hui costumes are a unique cultural phenomenon of the Hui people. Hui costumes culture is a treasure house with a long history, colorful and rich accumulation. The development, changes and various forms of Hui costumes are imperceptibly influenced by the times, regions and the customs of neighboring brother nations, but fundamentally or as a whole, they are deeply influenced by Islamic culture on the formation of Hui nationality. Blanche Penny, an authority on the history of human clothing and a professor at the University of Washington in the United States, once expressed deep emotion: "The study of the history of clothing can be said to be equivalent to an adventure activity, which involves a wide range of fields and is very interested." Since Hui clothing is a rhythm of semi development, it can help us grasp the main vein of the development of Hui history from a macro perspective. The research on Hui costumes is not limited to the level of clothing, headwear and other intuitive costumes, but expands the horizon, including Hui shoes, accessories, wedding and funeral costumes, stage performance costumes and student like costumes, thus enriching the research content of Hui costumes culture. In addition to the influence of regional environment and social change, the costumes of all ethnic groups have their own unique taste View.

?