Exclusive Interview With AK Club Brand Designer Johnny Diamandis
It's about a man's growing experience and thinking.
In 1993, young Johnny Backpackers traveled around the world, to Cuba, Eastern Europe, China, Vietnam and other places, and impressed him deeply, and had a new understanding of these countries.
The collapse of the Berlin wall, the drastic changes in Eastern Europe and the disintegration of the Soviet Union brought different patterns and influences to the whole world. Until the end of the cold war, peace and development became the main trend of the world.
This gave him the first inspiration to create the AK brand and decided to go to the world's most famous British central Saint Martin School of art.
In the days to come, he used to wear a men's coat and cowboy at 2001 in Burberry.
Designer
At that time, the design team led by the new creative director, Christopher Baily, rebuilt the British brand Burberry with a long history. He became the chief designer of the famous Japanese Cowboy brand Evisu in 2003 and worked in Asia for 4 years.
These experiences led him to settle in New York, USA in 2007 and create his own AK brand.
From its inception, the AK brand combines the research on the classic elements of men's clothing and the application of modern technology, focusing on key details and interpreting the spirit of "exploring the essence" in products.
Johnny's inspiration to travel around the world spawned the unique style of AK, the idea of "Peace work and Life".
Not just clothes, AK Club (AKseries, AK-*, and high-end bag luxury brand JPLC created by Johnny) want to provide a comprehensive solution to the lifestyle of men today: from clothing products to men's high-end bags, it becomes an all directional menswear brand.
All this may have been Johnny before 1993.
Our dialogue with Johnny began:
Q: can you talk about the brand style of AK CLUB and the spirit you want to convey?
Johnny:AK CLUB is a men's wear brand. The design center is currently in New York and London, because I live there, and the market and administration headquarters are in China.
Brand inspiration usually comes from the real origin of men's clothing, such as military uniform, functional clothing and sportswear, and more often, inspiration comes from the style before 60s.
We follow the trend, but for the market leaders we often talk about, there are no other brands in this field at present.
Our slogan is peace, work and life; and most importantly, I spend a lot of time working closely with my design team in China to reach the spirit and soul of our consumers.
With the growth of our brand, I spend more and more time in China.
Q: as a Menswear composite brand, who are the consumer groups concerned by AK CLUB? What kind of life philosophy or lifestyle do they have?
Johnny: our customers are young, vigorous, aged 20-45 years old, fashionable men.
They care about their image and want to have a fashionable style.
But they can also see that we are selling not just clothes, but also soul and passion for life.
AK has real passion, we want to share with our customers - we design carefully, and customers buy with intent.
Q: how to balance the relationship between personal design concept and business and market?
Johnny: This is indeed a big problem. It is a tough task for any brand.
In my opinion, a brand must have expensive image products in a series of products, even though it may not necessarily sell well, but it can represent the brand, so that the brand can win more attention and encourage consumers to buy more basic products.
The basic products are more commercial, but they must be able to represent the brand thoroughly.
The key word here is "balance", you need to have both, and the two should be harmonious and gels together.
Q: as a designer who crosses the East and west brand, what's the opinion about the difference between eastern and Western culture and brand and market?
Johnny: clothes are always clothes. In modern society, men and women will wear similar clothes in East and West, in developed or developed countries.
But this is a big "but", there are some very subtle but significant differences.
Designers must admit that many things are rooted in culture and history, for example, certain colors or patterns need to be avoided; and some of the most basic differences, such as the differences between the East and the West.
Evisu is a good example. It doesn't sell well in the United States, because in essence, the American Cowboy brand is following Levis in many ways.
And it's always hard to sell back to the host country. When we decide what AK needs to do as a brand, my experience of working and living in Asia for many years can make me decide immediately.
Q: can you talk about your favorite designer or design style?
Johnny: I don't have a personal preference. I like Jean Paul Gaultier just because he is an interesting and innovative designer.
If you say a more recent name, I think it's Christophe Lemaire. He's great.
European design schools emphasize creativity more often than they are driven by commercial interests in the US, but there are still so many active brands that guide the world, such as LV, Gucci, Burberry and so on.
Q: how do you usually start your new product design and development?
Johnny: in-depth research is an important start for any series of development, which is often emphasized when I was teaching in London fashion school.
I usually start drawing inspiration from London. I often go to flea markets and shops, and take a look at what is happening in the streets. Of course, I often buy books. From inspiration, we begin to establish color systems and start sketching and prototyping.
Q: what are the biggest challenges or challenges that you face as a designer brand?
Johnny: the difficult thing is never to be complacent or stagnant on the basis of past success. Every season is like a new beginning.
Things are constantly changing, and new competitors are entering the market.
A designer must keep pace with the times.
Q: what do you think of the designer brand in China?
Johnny: now there are many successful Chinese designers both in the West and in China.
I think it's been too long for them to break out of cocoon or have global followers.
However, the system and concept of Chinese design teaching must be pformed from a replicating culture to a daring and innovative culture. This is very important.
Q: how do you consider setting up shop in Xintiandi fashion?
Johnny: we did not adopt a realistic business model. We hope to create a dreamy and exciting creative space, which represents our slightly crazy world! Of course, my luggage line JPLC also occupies a large proportion in the store.
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