Garment Customization Profit Is Difficult To Compete With Mass Production. Wuhan Private Custom Garment Development Is Limited.

Speaking of private

What do you see in your head? Paris? Big name? Beijing? Shanghai?

In the 80s and 90s of last century, for many people, making clothes was a trend.

However, with the appearance of "ready to wear", the custom wind day gradually declined.

At the end of April this year, at the Beijing motor show, a diamond dress with a legendary value of 100 million yuan was won.

At the same time, it has also made more people know the Wuhan senior fashion designer Luo Fanxi, and put the word "custom" back into the line of sight: it turned out that in Wuhan, there was also a private dress custom, and has been in existence for several years.

Individualized demand warming clothing customization

The model drill is originally "

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In the clothing industry, private clothing customization first appeared in Paris in the 20s of last century. However, with the appearance of "ready to wear", clothing customization gradually faded out of the stage of costume production.

But now, with the development of economy, people's demand for individuation is getting higher and higher.

Unlike previous "upper class exclusive" - advanced clothing customization, the present "customization" also serves urban gold collar, urban upstart, exquisite taste and personality.

In April this year's Beijing auto show, many people may not remember how many new cars there were, but they must not forget the model Li Yingzhi and the gown long gown that she wore.

The creator of this dress is from Wuhan, Luo Fanxi, a 85 fashion designer.

Walk into the 2 floor of a residential building in a district of Tang Cai road, Hankou. The design studio of Luo Feng brook is "secluded" here. After closing the store on Zhongshan Boulevard, luovxi is here as a temporary pition, neither in the busy market nor in the street, but it is quite in line with the mysterious and distance sense of costume customization.

"In 2009, I once wanted to give up fashion designers, not to make mass production, but to survive. It's really not easy."

Luo Fanxi said.

In 2008, with the glory of graduates from the world's best fashion colleges, Luo Feng brook graduated from the French ESMOD fashion art academy and returned to Wuhan, which was three years away from home.

Without proper work, Luo Feng Xi started another career path, and opened a clothing store based on advanced customization in Wu Guang office.

In Wuhan, there are quite a few customised clothing shops.

On the third floor of the comprehensive building of Wuhan Textile University, there is a row of clothing studios named after the school teacher. Zhang Wenhui's personal studio is in it.

Stealth campus, but can not hide his brilliant design resume: Angelina, Julie, Paris Hilton, and model Liu Wen are passing through his designs.

In his view, "at present, the clothing customization in Wuhan and the" advanced customization "in the fashion industry are not a concept. It is probably appropriate to customize private garments.

Foreign orders exceed local demand.

A dress will take two months to make.

When the reporter went to the interview, there were three models erected in the studio of Luo Feng brook. The three white gowns on the model body had already been completed 80% and were about to be completed.

1 months only four orders, each dress for about two months, "now, the list has been placed in October."

Luo Fanxi said that after turning off the clothing store last year, she began to concentrate on making a private dress custom, and 60% of the orders came from the field. Compared with the North Shang Guang, the development of private clothing customization in Wuhan was still slow.

The starting price of the dress is 10 thousand yuan, and the price of the dress is several hundred thousand yuan. It looks like a shocking price. But because of this one, and the production period is long, the economic benefits of the "noble" custom made dress are far from that of the mass produced garments.

"The consumption concept and level of Wu Han people still can not keep pace with the development of clothing customization."

Zhang Wenhui, for example, took a high-level dinner hosted by the French Consulate last year. In the banquet of Jiangcheng celebrities, only the consular ladies were formally dressed. Most of the women attending the dinner were wearing professional clothes that they usually wear to work.

Zhang Wenhui analysis shows that, at present, there are not many high-end banquet occasions in Wuhan, and even those who have the conditions to make a dress have little chance to put it into practice.

"It is more difficult to form a mature market at the moment".

Local garment companies favor short flat speed.

Garment customization profit is difficult to batch production.

A thousand shirts, tens of thousands of dollars or even hundreds of thousands of dollars, behind the mysterious private custom, is a frightening price.

But a few private clothing studios in Wuhan still insist that the high price does not mean that the profits will be considerable. In fact, the profits of the custom-made garments that look very beautiful can not be compared with that of the batch garments.

"This is one of the reasons why local businesses do not touch this market."

An insider who asked not to be named told reporters that compared with some luxury and high-end brands abroad, the domestic clothing brand is "epigenetic" whether it is brand history or operation management. "Most Wuhan clothing enterprises do not have this awareness, or the profits of garment production are more attractive to them."

The industry pointed out that enterprises to develop high-end customized market segments are facing three challenges, the first to bear the brunt of the challenges.

Brand is the symbol of historical sedimentation, art and quality. The formation of brand depends on the input and accumulation of enterprises. This is exactly what Wuhan garment enterprises have neglected and lacked.

Therefore, the domestic clothing brand enterprises should first deal with the accurate positioning of high-end customized brands and vigorously mold their brand culture and artistic temperament.

There are alternative ways to acquire premium brands at home and abroad or to collaborate with well-known designers to launch designer brands.

Second, it is a challenge for designers.

A high-end custom-made garment from the beginning of customer demand communication, tailored to the final delivery, need to go through more than 10 work processes and 10 times as many try and wear, which requires designers not only to have cultural and communication skills, but also need to know well about clothing manufacturing technology.

"There are 4 clothing colleges and universities in Wuhan, with sufficient talent reserves, and many domestic brand design directors are all from Wuhan."

Finally, the development of high-end custom business is faced with the challenges of service.

Unlike batch garment manufacturing, the whole process of high-end customization embodies the delivery of high-end customized services.

Therefore, enterprises should establish an independent service system outside the original channel service system.

French Fashion Association helps

Jiangcheng customized "money road" can be expected

Unlike Guangdong, Zhejiang and other places, there are a large number of pure processing enterprises of different sizes. The development of Wuhan's private customization is limited. Besides the lack of atmosphere, the processing links are not strong enough, and this is also one of the reasons.

Private customization requires manual labor, and a skilled manual worker who can communicate well with designers has been worth up to five thousand or six thousand yuan / month in Wuhan.

Even so, Zhang Wenhui and Luo Wu Xi said that relying on one's own ability to raise designers and production teams at the same time is extremely costly.

"Our school has worked with the French fashion association to create a fashionable Wuhan."

Zhang Wenhui disclosed that in order to improve the living environment of Wuhan's private custom industry, we need to rely on external forces.

He said that the French Consulate is interested in holding fashion week in Han to build a platform for communication between Wuhan's cutting-edge design force and excellent local French designers.

In addition, in order to retain the talents of fashion design in Wuhan, a fashion industrial park will also be established as an incubator for nurturing new strength.