The Concept Of Clothing Basic Pattern Method

1、 The concept of basic type method
In the industry, the basic method is also known as the total sample method, which is a method of garment cutting and sample taking the overall shape of garment as the basic pattern. According to the type of clothing, it can be divided into shirt base, suit base, coat base, etc. As the basic model, the model is generally taken from the model with the simplest or similar style in a certain variety, such as ordinary trousers is the basic type of trousers, and the single breasted flat LAPEL SUIT is the basic type of the suit.

Mr. Zhang Wenbin divided the graphic drawing methods of clothing into two categories

One is the direct constitution method based on the finished product specification or loose body chest circumference, including D-type method, basic rectangular method, full chest circumference method, etc., and the other is the indirect composition method based on the real size of human body, including short inch method and prototype method. According to this point of view, basic type method is also a kind of direct constitution method.

According to this classification, I define the motif as:

The basic frame or basic pattern based on the finished product specification or loose chest circumference is the basic type. For example, the basic pattern of trousers can be the complete drawing of trousers, the structure above the middle crotch line, or the part above the crotch line. Therefore, the basic type is the clothing type: either the conceptual form of clothing or the specific form of clothing.

The basic pattern method is to use the basic pattern template to make the required style structure drawing by means of supplement, cutting, folding and stretching according to the specific modeling needs.

According to this concept, the main basic pattern drawing methods in China include malingji, LuHong and Mei style, Wei Xuejing's Chinese women's clothing prototype, Jiang Xigen's mother type method, Wu Jingxiong's preferred basic pattern method, Dai Yongfu's D-style method, Ouyang's mental power proportion based method, etc. abroad, there are American mastky type, Japanese Mori Yuzi prototype, British Winifred basic pattern, etc, The national unified textbook "clothing structure drawing" planned by the Ministry of education is compiled on the basis of Jiang Xigen's mother cutting method.

2. Operation and application advantages of basic type

The basic pattern is the same as the prototype. It is easy and flexible to form on the basic frame or the basic pattern by using the composition methods of paper cutting, proportion distribution, ratio, etc.

1. Direct use of basic type change, once in place, faster to create patterns, simple in method, similar in form.

2. The data of basic type is mainly based on the national size standard. As long as the range of garment size and the number of grade difference are determined, the plate can be pushed, and it has the characteristics of accurate and standardized.

3. The basic frame system has brought flexibility to the clothing structure design. For example, the basic framework and formula of each style of the jacket have little change, while the details such as shoulder slant, armhole, front and back difference are adjusted and adjusted to form the basic series. The naming data is easy to remember and has the characteristics of flexible regulation.

4. As a common cutting method in China, the basic pattern method has a deep mass and technical foundation, and is easy to be unified into the design structure theory for analysis and research, thus becoming a unique cutting system in China.

3. Key points of learning basic pattern method

1. Always grasp the relationship between people and clothing

In order to make the best use of the basic pattern method, we must first deeply understand the relationship between people and clothing, including human physiological characteristics, human activity factors, human psychological factors, crowd comparison, etc., such as the structure of collar, the relationship between neck shape and collar shape, neck shape and collar split, neck activity and collar relaxation, etc.

2. Using the method of induction and comparison

The basic pattern method is essentially a basic type series drawing. The method of induction and comparison can get twice the result with half the effort. For example, the skirt drawing takes the straight skirt as the basic type, and uses the cutting and folding techniques to change into the oblique skirt and the sectional skirt, and then changes the extension on this basis. On the contrary, various oblique skirts can be summarized into a basic style, and then changed into the basic skirt style. Another example is the sleeve from one sleeve to one skirt, two sleeves, raglan sleeves and other sleeve types. After a comprehensive comparison, we can conclude two major factors: the shape of human arm and the basic shape of sleeve, and the balance between sleeve structure and body structure, so as to understand the sleeve composition system.

3. Learn the expression of graphic language

Clothing drawing language is an international common graphic language, which has standard drawing line symbols and application rules. Through these language points, we can master the overall graphics and key details, and find out the drawing characteristics and essentials. In Mr. Wei Lida's words, it is "the expression of the big picture". For example, the modeling of western suit drawing with curved back and chest can be obtained from the data of waist catfish, Zhongshan suit and military casual wear From the "big picture", students can understand their style tendency.

The basic legal system has not yet formed a complete system in China, and there are continuous disputes in its theoretical basis, form and means. I hope this paper can lead to a joint discussion among teachers of the same profession, so as to gradually improve and unify it.
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