"2 Seconds Before The Work Is Finished Is My Most Exciting Time." (Fig.)

"Advanced customization" has been used for a long time today, but in France, "Haute Couture" and its practitioners are strictly protected by law. Four years ago, Italian Maurizio Galante was recognized by the French High Fashion Association and became a truly sophisticated custom fashion designer. Only 11 people in the world enjoy this honor.
 

If you are not in Paris, you can also enjoy the high quality custom fashions of pure blood. In June 30th, the Maurizio Galante conference was held in the exhibition hall of China World Trade Center, Beijing - a week before the opening of Paris 2011 autumn and winter fashion week. Half of the costumes on display are from Galante's series released in Paris last season, and half of them are specially designed for Beijing. "All of them are pure advanced customization." Before the fashion show, Galante announced to reporters in the background, "inspiration from the stage, background music to every stitch on every suit comes from my" universe ". I also invited a chorus to the live performance, and I believe it will surprise the guests.

When it comes to advanced customization, people usually recall the past - the middle-aged tailor and the perfume salon wearing a white coat. Galante's fashion makes people think about the future. An asymmetrical long skirt consists of 450 pieces of rectangular silk. The color changes from orange to coral and mango. The denim is covered with hand stitched crystal tubes and glass beads. "I try to link the past, the present and the future, represent the past with technological and poetic creation, and talk about the future through technological innovation." Galante said.

In 1963, Galante was born in Lazio, Italy. In 1980, he enrolled in Rome Fashion Design Institute, specializing in architecture and later in fashion design, and became an assistant to Roberto Capucci. After graduation, Galante set up his own studio and set up his first ready-made garment series in Milan in 1987. Eight years later, he moved to France and formally advanced to advanced customization. French Janie Samet, a Fashion Journalist in France, once said of his work, "this young Italian is really unmatched. The cloth becomes ribbons after folding and cutting, and then becomes a moving fan. Every work has the father of OPPLE art, Vasarely's general artistic value, a cautious luxury.

Galante has built his own custom language. In recent years, he has begun to touch on the field of home design. This conference is part of the Da Vinci furniture "Milan to Beijing" 2011 Italy Furniture Fair. In addition to displaying all the designs of Galante at the Milan International Furniture Fair in April this year, he also works with Cerruti Baleri in the Asia market.

　　 B= the Bund pictorial

　　 M.G=Maurizio Galante

B: when did you get the title of the advanced custom fashion designer?

M.G: four years ago. Getting this title is much harder than people think. The French Fashion Association has a wide selection. You have to meet some basic conditions, such as the quality of clothes, making shows in Paris, etc. But the most important thing is that your work must be unique.

B: why do you choose advanced customization as your main business?

M.G: when I started my business in Italy, I began to create uniform. I have a small team at the same time in charge of garments and custom clothes. The reason why it later chose to engage in advanced customization is because of its charm and privacy. A small group of passionate craftsmen continue their ancestors' traditions in a very low-key way. This is very rare today, so it is more valuable and more challenging for me.

B: how large is your studio?

M.G: you can see from the photo that my studio is not big. Whether a fashion house meets the standard of advanced customization does not depend on its size. Just now I said, I have a small but excellent team. When we need a lot of embroidery or other processing, we will subcontract part of it to the outside workshops, which we call suppliers. Every workshop has its own strengths.

B: what is your strength?

M.G: my creation has an eternal theme, that is to reuse some simple things. Whether it is a small applique or a wrinkle, it will produce a strong effect after repeated use. This is what I am looking for. In addition, contrast is also good at using. I also abide by this design philosophy when I design furniture.

B: which part of your creation do you enjoy most?

M.G: two seconds before the work was finished, that was my most exciting time. When something is done, it is done. B: how do you describe your ideal customer?

M.G: women dressed in Maurizio Galante fashion are not afraid to show their inner feelings. Every customer I am dealing with is different. Everyone has a story with their own body. This is the most attractive part of the advanced custom fashion.

B: how much is the price of a custom tailor made by you?

M.G: we don't have a reserve price. The final price of a garment depends on the circumstances. Remember, the final price is not just about clothes, but also services. If you need us to send a tailor to your country for your fitting, you will have to bear the cost of the whole trip.

B: who are buying advanced customization nowadays? Are they elderly women or their daughters?

M.G: last week we hosted a young customer who came with her mother. The customer asked for a dress to be worn at the party. She said she wanted a luxurious skirt and wore it only once. Customers like this are getting more and more. We believe that her mother will also visit our studio in the future.

B: what's the strangest custom request you've ever met?

M.G: an elderly woman stays at home all year round because of physical reasons, so she has made some custom tailored skirts for her guests.

B: which way do you usually get inspiration?

M.G: I never travel for inspiration, nor do I set a theme for the conference. I do not have Brazil series, China series, India series. If I were a book, each series would be one page, and every page would come from myself.

What does B:21 century's advanced customization mean to you?

M.G: creative laboratory. I try to link the past, the present and the future, and represent the past with technological and poetic creation, and talk about the future through technological innovation. If we combine the technology of small workshop with the style of industrialization, it is "now".

B: what kind of fabric do you like best?

M.G: I like Ukrainian dry gauze best. It is a transparent fabric. It looks very fragile, but it has a certain strength and volume.

B: what color do you use most often?

M.G: big red. Because red is located in the middle of the palette, which is the most important color in my eyes. Red itself also has many different meanings. It can represent life and represent death. It can symbolize sweetness or pain.