Revitalization Of Xiang Clothing Technology Selected National Non Heritage List
In the recent TV play Qipao, Wang Zhiwen is the leader of the Wang puppet spy who is obsessed with Qipao.
When the heroine Guan Pinglu wore the nine Phoenix cheongsam, it was more than Wang Zhiwen.
Even today, even in the silk house of Hangzhou, it is not easy for a woman to make such a delicate cheongsam.
This will make the cheongsam master, just like the artists who scrub scissors, carve carved stones, and repair umbrellas, walk away in the alleyway, away from us.
In May 23rd this year, approved by the State Council, the Ministry of culture has identified third batch of state-level intangible cultural heritage list and national intangible cultural heritage list expansion list.
In nearly 200 intangible cultural heritage, Hangzhou "revitalize Chinese costume production".
skill
(that is, the predecessor of Hangzhou Limin Chinese garment factory).
Clothing technology becomes national non Heritage List
Say "
Zhen Xing Xiang
You may sound a bit rusty in making Chinese costume.
In fact, it comes from Hangzhou people commonly known as "Limin garment factory".
Bao Wenqi, Li Min
Chinese style clothing
Factory director.
Most days, he stayed in the five Fort factory.
The store in the city was set up by other teachers.
He and his companions have been with this store for decades, and have moved many places.
The city is moving forward at a rapid pace. In the process, some slow walkers are squeezed out of the city center, and their existence is a luxury in Hangzhou.
The garment factory, which specializes in Chinese clothing, has been selected in the third batch of national intangible cultural heritage list with the technology of "revitalizing Chinese costume making skills". It has witnessed such an "extrusion" process.
First, it was on Wu Shan Road, then moved to Jiangcheng Road near the railway station. Now the factory moved to the five fort of the junction of the suburbs.
The most famous Jiefang Road store moved to a more secluded Qingnian Road 20.
A few days ago, the reporter visited the store on the spot.
Here is a very simple sign. The scarlet letter on the white bottom is not conspicuous in a row of ordinary clothing stores.
Pushing the glass door, four forty or fifty year old masters are busy inside.
There is a sewing machine in the small shop, and the long work case is full of cloth.
On the shelf by the window, the handmade cheongsam with fine workmanship, red material and golden roll looks very beautiful.
Without marble floors and expensive furnishings, this simple shop is like a model of a state-run store in an old movie.
Xu, the head of the store, told reporters that the store moved back here in 2004.
Speaking of the list of intangible cultural heritage, the teachers in the shop are extremely proud. "The technology that we roll in here is very good, and it has been handed down from the earliest technology."
"Four of us here are teachers who have entered the factory at the age of twenty," Xu said.
Sitting in front of the sewing machine, Master Zhang stopped work and said, "we have three factories here in 1978, and the master Jin is entering the factory in 1980.
I have been feeling for more than thirty years.
"Three" mentioned by Master Zhang, besides himself and Xu Shifu, is another busy master who is busy at work.
Hard core fans are the main customers.
Successful entry into the national intangible cultural heritage list is equivalent to making a big advertisement. Has this brought more business here?
"Business actually has little impact.
First of all, fewer people wear old-fashioned clothes nowadays.
Master Xu said with a smile, "what is commonly done now is to go abroad or to attend a banquet.
But there are some old customers. It takes us two days to make a cheongsam, so sometimes it's busy, sometimes it's easier.
Any old brand has its own fans.
Halfway through the conversation, I came to an aunt wearing a cheongsam.
She wanted to make a genuine cheongsam.
Aunt Lu surnamed Lu, has always been very fond of cheongsam.
This is the first time to benefit the Chinese clothing factory.
"I heard the old people say that they are doing well in the rolling technology. I came to see them specially.
Qipao used to be worn by the banners. There are requirements for grading, specifications and specifications.
Such a cheongsam is not only beautiful, but more important is the modification and standardization of its own words and deeds.
Ms. Lu has studied cheongsam very much.
According to Ms. Lu, she had more than a dozen cheongsam, and all of them were in spring, summer, autumn and winter.
But she also felt sorry, because wearing cheongsam was very challenging, "walking for work is usually not done."
I also wear it on formal occasions because I like it. "
The shop Master said that the fans of old style cheongsam like Ms. Lu were the main customers of the store.
Every day, the teachers hope that such guests can come more.
Making clothing technology into culture
As the saying goes, "wine is not afraid of alley".
Will there be a "mass basis" of Chinese style clothing technology after entering the national intangible cultural heritage list, will there be new flowers in old trees?
This summer, Bao Wenqi, director of the Liming Chinese clothing factory, is very busy.
Because the Hangzhou municipal government has arranged two experts for the Li Min Chinese clothing factory to help him make a plan to revitalize the future of Chinese clothing.
When chatting with reporters, Lao Bao has been complacent and confident.
"Experts give us advice, first of all, to diversify the styles of clothing; two, to imitate the protection and development of kimono, and build the factory into a three-dimensional workshop with design, production, exhibition and sales as well as to publicize this skill and achieve double harvest of tourism and order.
This is also a good thing for Hangzhou. "
"Why do you think so?
I want to make clothing technology into culture.
With this set of design, production, display and sales performance as a whole, it is just like those tourist experience spots in Hangzhou before, so that tourists can see how the cheongsam is made and how long the cheongsam has a long history.
The old bag said that if the expert's proposal was approved, the government would be able to help in the future if there was a fund, and it was heard that there would be a fund.
"What worries you most is two things. One is to choose a good store, the other is to find a plot of land. The five Fort plant is rented. In the future, it will probably be demolished and become the two phase of Qianjiang new town." two "
Only 10 acres to 20 acres is enough.
If anyone can help me, that's the big savior.
The director's office hangs a picture of him and Chen Xiangmei.
Last year, Yao Ming also came and ordered technician Jiang Min to make a Tang suit for him.
There were Ma Ji among the distinguished guests.
The director of the package said with regret, Mr. Ma Ji: "from 1897 to the present, the inheritance of our skills and the production of garments are uninterrupted.
All the skills are handed down from generation to generation by master's disciples, so our technology is very comprehensive.
This is one of the top in the country.
In 1990, Mr. Ma Ji wore clothes in Shanghai and Suzhou for the sake of comic dialogue, and finally came to our house. He was quite satisfied.
Also wrote the couplet "Yang Qi national righteousness, the Chinese light."
Zhenxing has just turned around and opened the domestic market from abroad. Can it attract more young customers in the future?
The director of the package looked more optimistic: "nowadays, many people only wear Chinese clothes at the banquet.
I am more confident when we consider how to make domestic sales bigger.
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