Centennial Development Of Girdle And Bra: Oppression, Obscenity Or Fashion?

The origin is complicated.

As early as in 1859, a New York Broolyn named Henry applied for a patent for his "symmetrical spherical chest covering", and was considered to be the prototype of bra.

In 1870, a tailor in Boston advertised in the newspaper to sell "chest support" for women with big breasts.

In 1907, Paul Polret, a French designer specializing in the design of robes, said: "in the name of freedom, I declare the decline of the waist and the rise of bra."

Although he did not know what he had designed, he was considered the inventor of bra.

In the same year, the word "bra" (brassiere) appeared in the US version of Vogue, and the bra began to be accepted and accepted by the public.

In view of the status of Paul Polret and the American version of Vogue in the fashion industry, we believe that the bra is just 100 years old since 1907.

Brassiere is more capable of expressing two opposite desires than all other clothes. While covering the body and strengthening and showing it, the sexual meaning and ritualistic composition of the bra constitute the history of women's contradiction: subjecting to the restraint of the body by subjecting the body to subjectively, and subjecting the body to break the taboo.

And "

The struggle

A costume historian named Hao Sang specializes in collecting waist, which has been described in 1860~1870 years. "The material is dark black silk, with fine cotton lining. The design is extremely complex, with fine stitches, 20 whale bones and 140 tie lines."

Before the bra appeared, women wore such things for more than 400 years. The primary task of bra is to squeeze out the waist.

The girdle originated from the court. The wild history said that the queen of France, Josephine, was pregnant with an affair. To hide the fact that the cloth was wrapped up in her abdomen, she had the effect of raising the breast and matching it with fashionable low breast clothes. Her breasts were clearly visible and became the trend for a while.

Men believe that the waist has become a vulgar image, only to cause obscene lewd heart, but women think it is so easy to display jewelry.

On the eve of the bra, the upper class women are still suffering from the oppression of wooden boards, whale bones and leather waist. If they dare to take off their girdle and loose posture, they are considered morally pathetic.

The working class women and peasant women can not afford expensive girdle, which will also hinder work. They also come up with cheap waist girdle, chest tie, and no servants need help.

At that time, the upper class had the advantage of leading the trend. Although Paul Polret, the inventor of the bra, served the aristocracy, his wife who had taken off his waist was only regarded as an astonishing super.

There are few followers.

In the mid eighteenth Century, there was a doctor initiated anti waist movement in Europe, playing the banner of science and fighting alongside the anti nanny campaign.

The famous speech came from a pamphlet written by a man named Bono in France: "using whale bone to girdle the waist causes the degeneration of human species, violating the laws of nature, increasing the risk of population decline, and deteriorating the quality of men.

In other words, a woman is a man who gives birth to a man, but he is punished at the moment when he is conceived. "

This selfish male view is really annoying, but it has the same goal as the early feminist.

In 1876, the American female existentialist godmother Ulson (Abba Goold Woolson) said in an anti waist talk speech: "I exist, the primary role is not a wife, nor a mother, but a woman. I have the right to exist as a woman.

New women have the right to wear strong, comfortable and happy. "

No one can listen to them. Although girdling women is guilty, and pornography is in line with male's "seduction principle", women can use more sexuality and get ahead of men than men.

The bra proves that war and Mousika can coexist.

In the first World War, Germany and France correspondingly launched the battle of "waist waist" and "bra".

An advertisement published in the German Leipzig news denounces the "bra" invented by the Parisians, which is dangerous. It sells the real German spirit waist and buckles to the waist to support the breast armor.

However, like the real war, the Frenchman won the final victory.

"World War I" is one of the few chest breaks in history. Social girls try to appear flat, so that long necklace chains are coming down. Artificial silk is also available. Bra prices are low, and the aristocratic men who are trying to seduce are getting worse and worse. Women must go out to work, and the convenient bra becomes the first choice.

Then came the "World War II".

The United States called on women to abandon the girdle with large numbers of steel wires to support the battlefield. It is said that 3 tons of steel have been saved in the past 28 thousand years, enough to build two warships.

Just when Warner Bros. just got the bra patent, timely launched the bra and gave it to the carrier pigeon.

The vest has made a fortune in war.

After that, no matter how big, small, sharp, round, and girdle were, no longer replaced the bra.

In the fashion week of Paris in 1994, "the curve and waist of high fashion" was a glimpse, launched by Donna Karen, made of plastic braces, which is more suitable for clothing than predecessors, but it is still not convenient.

From the waist to bra changes, women seem to have been liberated, but replacing the whale bone with the waist is a modern aesthetic standard "muscle tights". To reach the standard waistline, we must lose weight, and it will cost more if we want to raise our chest and breast.