Understanding Chinese Dress Culture -- Song Liao Xia Jinyuan Dress

　　 Song dynasty The style of Han nationality clothing was basically preserved. Costumes of Liao, Xixia, Jin and Yuan Dynasty had the characteristics of Qidan, dun Xiang, Nvzhen and Mongolia nationality respectively. The dress and adornment of different nationalities is exchanged and fused again.

In the Song Dynasty, there were three styles of official clothes, casual clothes and old clothes. In the Song Dynasty, the official costume fabric was mainly made of Luo. The government used five generations of old system to give the brocade and brocade material of the pro and noble ministers every year. It was divided into seven different colors, such as the Song Dynasty vulture, the ball pattern, the robe and so on. The color of the official uniform is followed by the Tang Dynasty. Three products are above purple, five products are above Zhu, seven products are above green, and nine products are above green. The official uniform is nearly the big sleeved robe of the late Tang Dynasty, but the first dress (CAP HAT) has been made of the flat wings, the name of the straight foot, the monarch and the official uniform. The official costume of the Song Dynasty followed the pea fish system in the Tang Dynasty. The officials who were eligible to wear purple and red uniforms had to wear "fish bags" in their waist. They contained fish made of gold, silver and copper to distinguish official products. The "square heart collar" is also the characteristic of the Royal suit, that is, the ornaments of the ornaments are covered by the royal clothes. In the Song Dynasty, casual clothes other than official uniforms and uniforms were mainly made of small sleeved collar shirts and soft headed wings with a hat band. They were still in Tang style, but at the foot they changed to casual shoes that were more convenient for daily life. The representative costumes of the Song Dynasty's old men were wide neckshirts and Dongpo towels with large sleeves. The robes are dark colored with margins. Antiquity 。 The Dongpo towel is a square shaped high towel, which was created by Su Dongpo, a great writer. It is actually the revival of the ancient scarves, and the elderly gentry in the Ming Dynasty often used it.

Song Dynasty folk costume also has a variety of popular. Men are popular with heads and scarf, while women are popular. Corolla And the cover. Women's hairstyles and corolla were the focus of the pursuit of beauty at that time, and best reflected the changes in the costumes of the Song Dynasty. The women's Corolla in Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties has become more and more dangerous. In the Song Dynasty, the corolla developed and changed.

Liao, Xixia, and Jin are the regimes established by ancient Chinese Qidan, dun Xiang and nzhen ethnic groups. Their costumes reflect the development track of national tradition in carrying out long-term cultural exchanges with the Han people. The women of the Dang Xiang nationality have many Lapel bearers, and the collar is beautifully embroidered. Khitan and Nvzhen people usually wear narrow sleeves, round neckties, knee Jersey, long boots, suitable for hunting at once. Women wear narrow sleeved collar gowns and long back backs, all of which are left, which are opposite to Han people.

The Liao and Jin regime took into account the reality of coexistence with the Han nationality, and set up a system of "Southern officials". Han people were ruled by Han nationality, and Han officials adopted the old system of Tang and song official uniform. Liao Dynasty distinguished official products from the silk official uniform on the landscape and bird and animal embroidery patterns, which affected the grade identification of the official costume in Ming and Qing Dynasties. Khitan and nu Zhen men's clothes are also used by Han people for their convenience in action.

In the first year of the year of Yan you (1314), the Yuan Dynasty took into consideration the system of ancient, modern, Mongolian and Han, and made unified provisions for the officials, the people and the people. The Chinese official uniform is still mostly Tang style round collar and head; Mongolian officials wear collar clothes and square corrugated caps; the middle and lower levels are easy to gallop, and the most fashionable waist lined plait lined jacket (round collar tight sleeve robe, wide hem, fold, braid line waist), Thelkasa Ko cap.

In the Yuan Dynasty, there were Nu Shi Jin Jin brocade, Hun Jin Zi Zi, Jin Duanzi, Dou Luo Jin, San Ling Luo, Da Ling, Xiao Lin, South Silk, north silk, wooden brocade, and brocade cloth. Various names. The Yuan Dynasty held more than 10 grand assemblies every year, when thousands of officials dressed in the same color, style and decorated with stone, gold, gold and jewellery were called high quality clothes. It was used as a dress for the Ming Dynasty.