Hanfu Secret: An Overview Of Hanfu (2)
Han clothes
Style and characteristics
Han Costume
style
What is it? If we compare the Han with the European nations, we will find that the two are different in many ways.
The general style of Han nationality clothing for thousands of years is mainly light and plain.
The ancient robe of Han nationality can best embody this style. The main characteristics of this gown are wide robe and big sleeves, and clothing and ribbon. Although the shape is simple, everyone wears the same clothes and looks very different.
Although we can not see the prototype of this dress, we can still see the one or two of its appearance from the silk paintings of the Han Dynasty and some of the characters left by Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties. The simple Chinese overcoats attached to different characters of the body suddenly had a fresh vitality, and the lines were soft and smooth, which made people imagine.
The simplicity of plain clothes adds a natural charm to them.
The robe fully embodies the Chinese nation's gentle, tranquil, elegant and detached national character, as well as its natural, subtle, elegant and fresh aesthetic taste.
(1) historicity
The coercive force of shaving and wearing clothes has disappeared, and Hanfu tends to revival.
(2) inheritance
Inheritance is the continuity of Hanfu history.
In this long time, the development of Hanfu's history has always followed the characteristics of generations of generations, which reflects the continuity of the historical development of Hanfu.
(3) diversity and identity
Diversity and identity are the similarities of Hanfu styles and Hanfu style (or style).
As a thousand year old thing, Hanfu has never been a style, and the rich and colorful styles such as "coat under clothing", "deep clothing" and "skirt" have embodied the diversity of a long national costume.
Although Hanfu has always been rich in styles, the basic form (or style) of Hanfu is "the right hand side, no buttons, and the ties tied by the rope".
The unity of identity and diversity is a major feature of Hanfu.
(4) completeness
Completeness refers to the completeness of the internal system of Hanfu itself.
After thousands of years of development, Hanfu is already a mature dress. It not only has rich internal varieties, but also has rich handicrafts.
(5) integration
Fusion refers to the integration of Hanfu and traditional culture. Hanfu has been regarded as a symbol of authentic traditional culture to a large extent, and Hanfu itself embodies traditional culture everywhere. Hanfu and traditional culture are a harmonious family.
Historical development
Hanfu is the abbreviation of Han Costume: mainly refers to the Han costume formed in the process of cultural development and national integration before the Qing Dynasty.
As an independent clothing system, Hanfu has formed a unique cultural background and national style in the history of inheritance and development, that is, it has formed a distinct style and characteristics, and is obviously different from other ethnic groups in China and any other ethnic group in the world.
Han clothing is extensive and profound.
Because of its long history, wide application and continuous development and innovation, it is difficult for people who have less research on Chinese clothing to grasp it. As a large dress system, we can not only define Hanfu in the form of appearance and simple system, but take the dominant style as the defining standard.
Therefore, the definition of Hanfu can be expressed in the following words: "tracing back to Yan and Huang, down to song and Ming Dynasties, based on the clothes worn by the people of the Han nationality (before Qin Dynasty), and on the basis of this, a series of clothing with distinct styles evolved and evolved."
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Such a definition of Hanfu -
Han nationality
The traditional costumes are mainly based on the following three considerations:
The first is the nationality of Hanfu, that is, Hanfu is the dress of Han nationality.
The clothes worn by ancient Chinese beard can not be called Hanfu.
The concept of nationality is a whole, so the clothes of a hu man wearing by a Han nationality can not be called the traditional Han costume.
Second: the traditional nature of Hanfu development, and tradition must be divided into two aspects, that is, continuity and unity.
The inheritance of Hanfu is shown in the following: the origin of Hanfu can be traced back to the ancient Yellow Emperor era in China.
The unity of Hanfu is from the Yellow Emperor era to Song Ming, in the vast land of China, in nearly five thousand years of time span, and the breadth of space of millions of square kilometers, all the Han nationality's clothing has the common characteristics in its mainstream.
It is a typical example of right, big sleeves and deep garments.
Third: the naturalness of Hanfu's development, that is, the natural development which is usually not easily perceived by the Han people when they are voluntarily forced by non external forces. This is also a regular rule of general things or cultural development.
The naturalness of Hanfu development is also the basis for the inheritance of a traditional costume of a nation, that is, the proper development and evolution of a certain thing or culture under its own normal development track.
Its direction can be traced back to its source through general laws, and its development direction can also be predicted backwards.
Under this definition, in ancient China, except for the Qing Dynasty, the clothes worn by the Han people before the end of the Ming Dynasty could be called Hanfu, regardless of their styles, regions, integration, differentiation and development. The modern costumes, apart from the Qing costumes, are different from those in ancient times, but they are also designed according to their traditional styles, so they can also be called Hanfu.
The Hanfu is easy to distinguish from the traditional clothing of other nationalities (including full dress, dress and modern costume) with the naked eye. Nowadays, this kind of Hanfu is also called "ancient costume (except for clean clothes)".
The costumes of the Qing Dynasty were traced back from the Manchu costumes, looking back and not Hanfu tradition.
Therefore, although the Han people wear them, they do not conform to the traditional elements of the Han traditional costumes, so they can not be classified into Han clothing categories. Today, the origins of the clothes worn by Han people are mainly from the West.
It is necessary to distinguish between the clothes worn by a Han nationality and the traditional costume of the Han nationality.
Hanfu is one of the oldest costumes in the world.
Before the age of archaeological support, the earliest appearance of Hanfu should be Yin Shang period.
About 5000 years ago, during the Neolithic Age of Yangshao culture, China produced primitive agriculture and textile industry, began to make clothes with linen cloth, and later invented silkworms and silk spinning.
After the Shang Dynasty, the crown clothing system was initially established, and the dress system gradually formed in Western Zhou Dynasty.
In the later period of Zhou Dai, the political, economic, ideological and cultural changes had taken place. Especially, the hundred schools of thought had a certain influence on the improvement of dress.
And create deep clothing.
The crown system was incorporated into the "rule of Rites" and became a form of etiquette. From then on, the Chinese dress system was more detailed.
"The clothing that goes through the upper and lower passage is a deep garment, and the clothes that represent the characteristics of the times are also deep garments, which are the characteristics of ancient clothes.
Those who speak ancient clothes should first and then.
What is "deep clothing", "ritual record deep clothing" Kong Shi Justice said: "so called the deep clothing, to the rest of the clothes, the coat is not connected, the deep clothing clothes linked, deep body, so called deep clothing."
Its system is detailed in the book of rites, deep clothing.
The most important is "continuation" and "hook".
To sew half down.
You can carry your elbow when you are tall.
The length of the sleeve is not so strong as that of the elbow.
The circle should be in accordance with the rules.
Pure palm, margin, pure edge, wide each inch half. "
In short, the system of deep clothing is the first of the ancient clothes, and the leader of the deep Garment Group is not only in its system form, but also has the longest popularity in time.
Ma Duan Lin's "Bibliographic examination, Wang Li Kao, monarch and imperial crown clothing" Yun: "according to the three dynasties, the system of clothes can be seen, though not one, except for the crown clothing, the only one of which is the Xuan end (deep garment), the two most widely used.
From the emperor to the scholar, all the clothes can be served.
As for the deep garments, they are tailored to make slits, and the law of the rites of etiquette, so the lowly can be served, the expensive ones can also be served, the court can serve, the swallow and the private can also be served, the emperor takes the old-age care, the princes serve as the sacrifice meal, the Qing doctors take the evening to look at the private, the common people take the guest sacrifice, the cover also does not have the rank.
The garment is not cut, not evil, but not round.
Its length is eight feet eight inches, each length is two feet two inches, four corners are square.
His clothes, the first three, and the latter four, should be innumerable.
The ancients had "Xuan Xuan end, Xi Shen Yi".
(referring to Huang Xian, "a preliminary study of interpretation of ancient books")
After the Qing army entered the customs in 1644, the semi colonial and semi slave countries were established at the core of Manchu.
In order to combat and enslave the national spirit of the vast Han people, especially the upper strata (scholars), the Manchu rule is maintained.
The rulers of the Manchu rulers ordered nationwide shaving and easy clothing, causing nationwide anger, dissatisfaction and armed resistance. Then, under the bloody suppression and slaughter of the rulers of the Qing Dynasty, Hanfu gradually disappeared.
Non physical period
Before the age of archaeological support, some ancient books believed that the Han nationality (and its ancestors) had a unique clothing system.
For example, "records of the historian" believe that "Chinese clothing is made by Huang Di".
"Before the Yellow Emperor, there was no room for clothes.
And the yellow emperor built houses, made clothes, camps and burial.
"Records of the historian" 15 emperors first,
Some people think (Note: lack of sufficient archaeological data support): about 5000 years ago, during the Neolithic Age of culture in China, the primitive agriculture and textile industry was produced, and the linen cloth was used to make clothes. After that, silkworms and silk spun were invented. People's dress and clothing became more and more complete.
The crown system appeared in the Yellow Emperor era, and the dress system gradually formed.
After the Xia and Shang Dynasties, the crown clothing system was initially established and gradually completed in the Western Zhou Dynasty.
In the later period of Zhou Dai, the political, economic, ideological and cultural changes had taken place. Especially, the hundred schools of thought had a certain influence on the improvement of dress.
And create deep clothing.
The crown system was incorporated into the "rule of Rites" and became a form of etiquette. From then on, the Chinese dress system was more detailed.
Physical period
The Han nationality's dress system has been changed from Zhou Dai to Ming Dynasty for three thousand years.
Until more than 300 years ago in the early Qing Dynasty, the dress system collapsed.
After the fall of the Ming Dynasty in 1644, during the Qing Dynasty's war with Nanming, the Qing rulers vigorously implemented Manchu hairstyles and Manchu costumes in order to weaken the sense of national identity of the Han people and prohibit the people from wearing Han costumes.
This makes Hanfu fade away.
At that time, Confucius's descendant Sheng Gong Kong Wen Yu wrote to duer, asking to preserve the costumes of the Confucius house, saying: "the sage is the commencement of the ceremony."
The most important thing is not to crown clothes.
But the house of the minister has not changed for three thousand years. "
It was rejected by duer.
Today cheongsam, long gown and Liriodendron are derived from the improvement and development of ethnic costumes dominated by Manchu people.
After the revolution of 1911 overthrew the rule of Manchuria aristocracy, people's thoughts tended to westernization, and they changed to western style clothes without restoring Hanfu.
But in the early twenty-first Century, with the development of China's national strength, people began to examine the outstanding part of their traditional culture.
Some people have re promoted and restored traditional Hanfu and promoted them in Hanfu.
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