Design Of Early Curing Process Shoe Last Shoe
The vulcanization process is generally molded by the last forming process. When making the help, the shoe and the soft inner sole are stitched to form a shoe sleeve. When the molding is done, the upper is directly molded into the shoe last, eliminating the trouble of the operation of the gang and simplifying the technological process.
The early shoe covers were stitched by ordinary sewing machines, and the stitching must be kept at the periphery of the inner bottom and the help feet. Now there is a special sewing device and no stitching is required. Therefore, the early curing process is different from the present shoe.
The early design method is introduced to explore its design principle. The present design method is derived from the original state.
1. design points
When the sewing machine is used to sew the last shoe, the processing volume should be left. See table 2-6-1.
Table 2-6-1 design of early curing process shoe last shoe processing unit: mm

In the modern shoemaking technology book, it has been stated that the type 1 suture line in the table is aligned with the last bottom lute, only the peripheral bar is needed. The suture of type 2 in the table is less than that of the last bottom.
The upper part of the upper shoe is the amount of stitching. The stitching of the inner sole is the same as that of the foot, but the volume is smaller than the stitching.
Especially for the front part, no matter the type or type 2, the inner bottom of the suture will be about 2mm shorter than that of the last one.
The reason for shortening the length is the same as that of the front end of the bottom of the shoe, which helps to shorten the 3mm of the shoe.
2. control points for connecting.
Because the length of the upper end of the upper shoe is larger than the length of the inner bottom, the inner bottom and the feet should be controlled by rules when they are stitched and stitched, so that the wrinkles of the feet are evenly distributed within the limits of the rules.
Generally speaking, there are 6 rules in the bottom, including the front end point A, the rear end point B, the first metatarsophalangeal H, the fifth metatarsophalangeal Hi, the outer heel point G1, and the heel point G2.
These signs are easy to find, see figure 2-6-1.
AB is the bottom line, RB is the heel line, and G1 G2 is the width line of the heel.
The heel position is usually taken at the bottom of 1/4 last.
The rules on the upper are copied from the rules of the bottom of the floor, and the inner bottom is placed on the bottom of the last floor. The half panel is better than the last one, and it is more polite to find a place than to look out.
3. requirements for materials
The inner bottom of shoe last shoes should be soft insole. The materials used for early insole include blue leather and double deck canvas. Nowadays, composite nonwoven materials are often used.
The thickness of men's shoes is 1.2 to 1. 4mm, and the thickness of women's shoes is 1 to 1. 2mm. If you use natural leather material, the inner edge should be trimmed, the width is 4 to 8mm, and the thickness is Imm.
Shoe last shoes are also used in main heel and Baotou. Soft materials should be used.
Before installing the bottom of the seam, install it in the main and Baotou and stick it.
At the bottom of the seam, the main part should be wrinkled with the Baotou part and not sewn to the main heel and Baotou, so the setting of the shoe last shoe is poor.
Nowadays, hot melt material is often used as the main way to follow Baotou, which can improve the stability of shoe type.
4. requirements for stitching
When stitching, the feet are aligned with the edges of the inner bottom, aiming at the rules, starting from the position of the middle seam.
In the heel and front part, tweezers should be plucked evenly for easy setting.
Control stitching margin 2 ~ 3mm. needle 3 to 3.5 needles /lOmm.
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