Helmut Lang City Dress Source

The design of Helmut Lang has been interpreted in 90s.

5 years ago, he retired from his brand.

Nevertheless, his cool urban style still has great influence on the next season.

When it comes to the work of the great Austria designer Helmut Lang (Hellmuth Lang) 10 years ago, American fashion magazine editor Anna Wintour (Anna Venter) said: "when Helmut just came out, we all didn't know it, because unlike the Middle East in the mid 80s, it was very rich.

But then everything changed, and Helmut became an advantage. "

10 years later, the world has gone through a period of ups and downs again.

Today, things are still plentiful, but they only adhere to the literal interpretation of 80s, and remove ribbons, bow ties and vulgar decorations.

People are refocusing on design and secular clothing, and the surface decoration (actually the traditional middle class share) has no space.

Without the exposure of the body, the implicit eroticism is replaced.

The design of prominent shapes is also replaced by subtle and covert outlines.

Inevitably, the two words "Minimalism" and "usefulness" become the words that the family loves to say.

The influence of these two words has been proved by Prada and Yamamoto Teruji at an early stage.

The Jil Sander in the mid 90s can also be used for reference.

Compared with the designers, Lang is the fashion hero at that time.

He retired from his brand 5 years ago.

He said he was "a victim of his own success".

He felt uncomfortable with the rapid growth of the brand he was controlling, and the consequent and growing business needs.

At the age of 53, he began to engage in fine art, and his name was still very penetrating.

Lang's handwriting experience appears in Stella McCartney (cascaded Chiffon Tops), and Celine, they will strictly conceive of lace instead of copying the designer's stuff; in Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci's slim sexy clipping also comes from Lang.

In addition, there are Rodarte pendant clothes, Antonio Berardi's little black dress, Balenciaga's mixture of traditional fabrics and hi-tech fabrics.

There are many examples.

About last year, Lang finally decided to donate these clothing archives to the clothing associations around the world.

The designer quietly started in Vienna and was very small. When he moved to New York in 1997, he abandoned most of his early works.

Even so, the museums are happy to collect his works for a long time, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Kyoto Fashion Association in Tokyo, the Mus e e de la Mode et Du Textile in Paris, the Groninger Museum in Amsterdam, the MoMu in Antwerp, and the Lun don.

Lang is used to jumping out of boxes, making them fashionable.

The Bath Fashion Museum currently has 23 women's wear and 16 men's wear. It will be on display at the end of this month until the end of the year.

Rosemary Harden, the curator of the museum, said: "this donation is very spectacular.

We have exquisite exhibits, but because we are local museums, this donation scale is unprecedented.

The first thing is autumn 97-98. "

White, plucent tops, which are full of wrinkles, are still enviable if they are worn on today's women.

"One is in 2000, and the other is in 2001, but mainly after 2002."

He is also the first designer to show men's and women's wear on the same stage. It's a reflection of life.

There is also an aesthetic connection between Lang's men's wear and women's wear: positive flat trousers, thin jacket, rolled cuffs, dancing canvas tapes, shoulders and elbow T-shirts, all of which are his style.

Speaking of his early works, he said, "girls have been wearing pants since 20s. Today, people still think this is a problem. I am shocked.

When Stella Tennant appeared on the platform, they all said she was an androgynous woman.

I thought at the time, it was very strange.

She is really a good-looking woman.

How can she be hermaphrodite?

Because she doesn't have long hair?

At the end of the day, I think it is an insult to men and women if we must make a difference between men and women in their appearance.

I never understood.

But this is not my mission.

We want our men to be very manly, to make our women very feminine and do everything possible. "

Lang's works are usually extremely sophisticated, though the elegance is contrary to today's nostalgia.

"Of course, we were once regarded as minimalism, but that was the beginning.

In the Paris period, it changed to Mugler, Montana and Gaultier.

By contrast, you can see that it is completely different. "

His clothes are gorgeous, but not old fashioned.

The design of Lang is far from the style of red carpet.

Later in his career, he agreed to add length and ground dress to his series, but still different from traditional dresses.

Harden stressed: "in the past 10 years, the influence of the red carpet aesthetics is very great.

But things like Helmut Lang are very different.

His aesthetics is very clear and complicated.

Pure and uncompromising.

The workmanship is excellent and the material is beautiful.

Lang usually takes full advantage of black and white.

Harden said, "I don't think Helmut Lang should be understood as monochromatic, minimalist, androgynous.

This is just ridicule. "

Lang is still very important today.

The designer walked ahead of the times, and his design was so unusual.

Helmut Lang was born in Vienna in 1956. Without formal training, he began to design in his hometown in 1977 and started a press conference in Paris in 1986.

What he presented had nothing to do with mainstream aesthetics, emotions, or even time.

Jo-Ann Furniss wrote: "for the excesses of 80s, Helmut Lang has its own correct conclusion.

He is forecasting and designing the future.

He told Furniss:, "you can see things from different angles and use your own judgement, especially after you have experienced the age of change, as we are now experiencing.

That's the change of things.

If you know who you are, you will insist on doing what you think is right, and you will know what you want to do next.